Clutch Master Cylinder
Discussion
I've had a problem with being able to change gear smoothly over the past couple of months (particularly reverse). I'm told it could be the clutch master cylinder. It's on a 2002 Tuscan.
I've got a few questions:
1. Would you typically have to replace the whole master cylinder or just replace the seals?
2. If I took it to a TVR specialist, how long should it take to replace and how much would it generally cost (parts and labour)?
3. Could it be anything else?
Thanks for any advise.
I've got a few questions:
1. Would you typically have to replace the whole master cylinder or just replace the seals?
2. If I took it to a TVR specialist, how long should it take to replace and how much would it generally cost (parts and labour)?
3. Could it be anything else?
Thanks for any advise.
Edited by intex on Tuesday 24th April 15:00
Your post is not very specific with the symptoms, but here goes:
The clutch thrust release seals failure is generally detected by the clutch pedal going to the floor with little or no resistance. Check the fluid level (the resevoir is in the drivers footwell above the pedal box), you should see a white probe sticking out of the top of the filler cap if fluid level is ok. If not, top the resevoir up using dot 4 fluid. Operate the clutch slowly until you get pedal pressure back as normal and re check the level, top up again as required. Check underneath the car and make sure you are not losing fluid around the gearbox bell housing....if you are, the seals are likely goosed. Clever Trevor do a modified improved thrust version, a few guys on here have used them, perhaps one or more will post a response in support of the product.
If the fluid level is ok and the pedal has normal operating resistance, its more likely to be the pressure plate fingers have begun breaking off. This is more likely the cause for difficulty in engaging gear. Again Clever Trevor do a modified standard item. (Its not wise to continue to drive the car until it completely fails if this is the problem. Some folk have had to replace the fly wheel at rather a high cost).
If the car has done 15 - 20K then it could be considered false economy not to replace both items at the same time if either one is at fault. This mileage seems normal for these items to fail (which in my humble opinion is sh*te engineering to start with....however).
The whole job can be DIY to save some wonga if you have the tools and mechanical aptitude.
Good luck
G
The clutch thrust release seals failure is generally detected by the clutch pedal going to the floor with little or no resistance. Check the fluid level (the resevoir is in the drivers footwell above the pedal box), you should see a white probe sticking out of the top of the filler cap if fluid level is ok. If not, top the resevoir up using dot 4 fluid. Operate the clutch slowly until you get pedal pressure back as normal and re check the level, top up again as required. Check underneath the car and make sure you are not losing fluid around the gearbox bell housing....if you are, the seals are likely goosed. Clever Trevor do a modified improved thrust version, a few guys on here have used them, perhaps one or more will post a response in support of the product.
If the fluid level is ok and the pedal has normal operating resistance, its more likely to be the pressure plate fingers have begun breaking off. This is more likely the cause for difficulty in engaging gear. Again Clever Trevor do a modified standard item. (Its not wise to continue to drive the car until it completely fails if this is the problem. Some folk have had to replace the fly wheel at rather a high cost).
If the car has done 15 - 20K then it could be considered false economy not to replace both items at the same time if either one is at fault. This mileage seems normal for these items to fail (which in my humble opinion is sh*te engineering to start with....however).
The whole job can be DIY to save some wonga if you have the tools and mechanical aptitude.
Good luck
G
Thanks for the info.
The issue with inability to change gears seems to be completely erratic, but does seem to become problematic / noticable once the car has got quite hot. Possibly coincidence.
The clutch resistance seems the same as ever. I thought the reservoir under the drivers footwell was for brake fluid - so there you have my level of technical / engineering capability.
The issue with inability to change gears seems to be completely erratic, but does seem to become problematic / noticable once the car has got quite hot. Possibly coincidence.
The clutch resistance seems the same as ever. I thought the reservoir under the drivers footwell was for brake fluid - so there you have my level of technical / engineering capability
.Hello 
Graham is right, there have been several people on here who have had the new Raceproved clutch assy installed (sold through Clever Trevor). Mine was fitted about 500 miles ago and I am getting on fine with it. The pedal travel is lighter and smoother with a "broader" bite to the clutch itself. I do notice that I need higher rev's than previously when pulling away in 1st to avoid any juddering but that's ok and it is bedding itself in nicely. The master/slave assy itself can be found on the CT website (www.clever-trevor.net/index.php) and I believe that prices are there too - call Keith Burgess if not. With approx 5hrs labour you can then calculate how much your local indy or dealer would charge you - could vary from around £900 total inc VAT to around £1400 inc VAT depending on who you use I guess.
It seems to me that the most common "fault" with the standard AP clutch assy is the finger strength/finish, as Graham mentioned. Rarely would a clutch actually wear out, more of a failure or breakage in one or two of the fingers giving a gradual but sometimes rapid deterioration of clutch performance over time.
The resevoir behind the pedal box contains fluid for the brakes and clutch and has a design such that the clutch will fail before the brakes should you lose fluid.
Hope this helps. Of course, you could spend a bit more money on the "superclutch" as Graham has fitted on his (IIRC)...horses for courses I think.
Andy
Graham is right, there have been several people on here who have had the new Raceproved clutch assy installed (sold through Clever Trevor). Mine was fitted about 500 miles ago and I am getting on fine with it. The pedal travel is lighter and smoother with a "broader" bite to the clutch itself. I do notice that I need higher rev's than previously when pulling away in 1st to avoid any juddering but that's ok and it is bedding itself in nicely. The master/slave assy itself can be found on the CT website (www.clever-trevor.net/index.php) and I believe that prices are there too - call Keith Burgess if not. With approx 5hrs labour you can then calculate how much your local indy or dealer would charge you - could vary from around £900 total inc VAT to around £1400 inc VAT depending on who you use I guess.
It seems to me that the most common "fault" with the standard AP clutch assy is the finger strength/finish, as Graham mentioned. Rarely would a clutch actually wear out, more of a failure or breakage in one or two of the fingers giving a gradual but sometimes rapid deterioration of clutch performance over time.
The resevoir behind the pedal box contains fluid for the brakes and clutch and has a design such that the clutch will fail before the brakes should you lose fluid.
Hope this helps. Of course, you could spend a bit more money on the "superclutch" as Graham has fitted on his (IIRC)...horses for courses I think.
Andy
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