How quiet are these?
Discussion
Top end wise,from cold you can tell theres alot turning over but no specific tapping at all,as warmed through gets better,in general nothing specific but not as quiet as a mass produced modern engine if you get my drift? No actual specific noises at all just sounds like a less refined engine is this normal?
I have to admit mine terrifies me most of the time, I am convinced it is about to throw a follower but after 6k it doesn't sound any different. It will be having a 12k tappet check soon (can't decide whether to do it myself or get someone else to have a look). It always reminds me of a desmo, above 3000rpm it is just great.
Get someone familiar with the sound to check it (as Blueg33 has) and accept it is never going to be a thing of mechanical perfection would be my advice.
Terrified in Gloucester.
Get someone familiar with the sound to check it (as Blueg33 has) and accept it is never going to be a thing of mechanical perfection would be my advice.
Terrified in Gloucester.
My Tam has just got back from a Track v Road service and they noticed that one tappet was a little loud but nothing to worry about, just keep an eye/ear on it. Their view is that a loud tappet is much better than a quiet one as that can mean they're too tight leading to all kinds of valve/engine damage
Ironballs said:
My Tam has just got back from a Track v Road service and they noticed that one tappet was a little loud but nothing to worry about, just keep an eye/ear on it. Their view is that a loud tappet is much better than a quiet one as that can mean they're too tight leading to all kinds of valve/engine damage
+1Mine is like BlueG33's, a tappy noise when warm like a sewing machine. Zero shim adjustment on last service (last month), cylinders compression checked and all fine and a rebuild 2 1/2 years ago. It's made that noise for 16'000 miles since the rebuild so I've given up worrying and guess its a case of they all do it. If I worried about every new squeak and rattle form the engine I think I'd be a nervous wreck by now 
It is a function of requiring a little clearance in the follower, one of the problems with a finger follower engine unfortunately. The FFF is a lot quieter, but in my opinion I wasn't really looking for a Honda type quietness for me it is the character of the engine. Interestingly F1 engines are all finger follower engines but they can run with a lot tighter tolerances as the engines are stripped down more frequently, they use advanced coatings on the running surfaces, and only run hot.
Ok thanks guys it sounds like its very normal even perhaps a bit on the good side as it doesnt rattle on cold start up or have any specifically noisy tappets,im not sure if i can hear a little cam chain noise though on intial fire up but its so hard to tell over the general noise of the thing,how is it checked/tensioned? Is it an easy thing to do?
Adjusting idle - this is what Graham Varley says
Engine Idle; This is not a fix for a lack of a service. It is just an interim measure , and is no substitute for a diagnostic reset. If the car has just been serviced it should always idle from cold no problem, but can reduce after 1000 miles. Best thing is get the diagnostics reset between services.
Adjust at centre between 3 & 4 under the fuel rail the lower grub screw of the two is the idle screw with a locknut on it, gently push against the spring to see the increase in idle revs and see the correct one for adjustment. Firstly clean the airbox, pipes and throttle bodies as this can effect cold idle; With engine stopped and cold loosen 8mm locknut and start engine and check idle rpm, set by adjusting grub screw to 750-800 cold, this should be about 850-950rpm when hot, tighten locknut. The idle can become lower between service intervals as the tappets clearance reduces.
Engine Idle; This is not a fix for a lack of a service. It is just an interim measure , and is no substitute for a diagnostic reset. If the car has just been serviced it should always idle from cold no problem, but can reduce after 1000 miles. Best thing is get the diagnostics reset between services.
Adjust at centre between 3 & 4 under the fuel rail the lower grub screw of the two is the idle screw with a locknut on it, gently push against the spring to see the increase in idle revs and see the correct one for adjustment. Firstly clean the airbox, pipes and throttle bodies as this can effect cold idle; With engine stopped and cold loosen 8mm locknut and start engine and check idle rpm, set by adjusting grub screw to 750-800 cold, this should be about 850-950rpm when hot, tighten locknut. The idle can become lower between service intervals as the tappets clearance reduces.
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