Internal heating
Discussion
Does any one manage to get any warmth out of the heaters? Last winter my AC unit had burnt out so I assumed it was jus that as I shivered my way along.
I seemed to get vague waftings of hot and cold in the summer, but now its -1C I'm back to shivering away, with AC on and AC off.
Is it something thats broken or a TVR design? If so, anyone know a good heater to plug into the cig lighter?!
I seemed to get vague waftings of hot and cold in the summer, but now its -1C I'm back to shivering away, with AC on and AC off.
Is it something thats broken or a TVR design? If so, anyone know a good heater to plug into the cig lighter?!
Plenty of warmth out of mine but I had to get the heater ECU fixed. It is under the passenger dash, the main pin tends to burn out. I sent mine away for a refurb and all is toasty now.
I used a company called electroversal but have also used http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/repairs.html for other electricals with great results.
I used a company called electroversal but have also used http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/repairs.html for other electricals with great results.
The heater ecu manages the heater blower motor and 'flap' (located under the 2 humps below scuttle panel, passenger side).
During a drive, the coolant temp should obviously increase. The coolant flow is always through the heater matrix - which is under the inboard of the 2 humps mentioned above. You can confirm flow by feeling the flexy hoses going in and out of the hump (just behind pass. side inner wheel arch). They should be hot after a drive - confirming flow thru heater matrix.
Point I'm trying to make is that unless you have an airlock you will eventually get 'some' hot air into the cabin - although not blown by the heater motor....and it will depend on position of flap under heater matrix. The flap merely blanks off the 'hot' air or 'cold' air sources....and directs the blower air through either the cold or hot side...or somewhere in between. If there is a long 'lead' time with the ecu repair, you could access the flap mentione above, and 'fix' it in the hot position to direct an 'ram' air thru the hot side.
Phew!!!
Nick
During a drive, the coolant temp should obviously increase. The coolant flow is always through the heater matrix - which is under the inboard of the 2 humps mentioned above. You can confirm flow by feeling the flexy hoses going in and out of the hump (just behind pass. side inner wheel arch). They should be hot after a drive - confirming flow thru heater matrix.
Point I'm trying to make is that unless you have an airlock you will eventually get 'some' hot air into the cabin - although not blown by the heater motor....and it will depend on position of flap under heater matrix. The flap merely blanks off the 'hot' air or 'cold' air sources....and directs the blower air through either the cold or hot side...or somewhere in between. If there is a long 'lead' time with the ecu repair, you could access the flap mentione above, and 'fix' it in the hot position to direct an 'ram' air thru the hot side.
Phew!!!
Nick
If the engine gets to 80C+, driving around in traffic, then I get some hot air. But as soon as I hit the motorway, the engine temp drops to as low as 59C (when the outside temp was 0C) and I only get cold air.
I don't think I can improve on it, I don't think the ECU is broken. I'll buy some gloves!
I don't think I can improve on it, I don't think the ECU is broken. I'll buy some gloves!
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though the screen vents aren't best placed for demisting.