How do you get the hand brake cable off the capliper arm ?
Discussion
I struggled for hours with mine (had to replace a rear calliper). Just adjusting the white knurled nuts does not give you enough slack.
Finally cracked it thus:
Get as much slack as you can by relaxing the pressure using the white adjuster nut and it's locknut (driver's side above the diff on my 2S).
Then find the crescent-shaped dubrey in the transmission tunnel that connects to the handbrake and pulls the cables whilst balancing the tension. This is attached by a pin that is itself retained by a split pin. Remove the split pin and pull the pin out to detach it from the handbrake. You now have all the slack you need, and the handbrake cable comes off the calliper with ease.
Note that to get to the underside of the handbrake you really need to remove the rear chassis strengthening plate (unless you have tiny hands). This was why I kept putting-off tackling the job like this. But it's only six bolts and took no time at all in the end. If I'd just done this in the first place, I would have saved myself hours of work and a lot of swearing!
Finally cracked it thus:
Get as much slack as you can by relaxing the pressure using the white adjuster nut and it's locknut (driver's side above the diff on my 2S).
Then find the crescent-shaped dubrey in the transmission tunnel that connects to the handbrake and pulls the cables whilst balancing the tension. This is attached by a pin that is itself retained by a split pin. Remove the split pin and pull the pin out to detach it from the handbrake. You now have all the slack you need, and the handbrake cable comes off the calliper with ease.
Note that to get to the underside of the handbrake you really need to remove the rear chassis strengthening plate (unless you have tiny hands). This was why I kept putting-off tackling the job like this. But it's only six bolts and took no time at all in the end. If I'd just done this in the first place, I would have saved myself hours of work and a lot of swearing!
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