Discussion
Hiya Si whats up non showing on stick only joking seems a Graham varleys book 5-40 semi synthetic about best although the guy i spoke to at RND Eng run Millers 10-60 for waranty validation going TGA Thurs morn if up for a sandwich
http://www.varleyhyd.com/FJ062.asp#Oil filter
http://www.varleyhyd.com/FJ062.asp#Oil filter
Edited by gralin69 on Tuesday 17th July 12:18
Hi gents,
I don’t want to start another huge thread about exactly what oil to be used but.....
I agree Magnitec is probably the best, as the oil is designed to retain the lubrication layer for as long as possible....as it says on the tin... even after a good time sitting, as many TVR's do.
However I can’t help but apply logic to the requirement of the oil in a dry sump engine.
As TVR's are dry sump, on a cold start you want oil ASAP to be flowing around the engine, especially as these engines are known for the cold start wear rate.
Therefore what you want is a very thin oil at cold temps you get the oil very quickly through the system and running around the engine without putting a huge load on the oil pump and the surfaces are lubricated quickly. Then once it’s up to temperature there is no issue with the cold viscosity of the oil it’s the warm viscosity you require.
As you know the first number of oil refers to the cold viscosity, therefore I personally think that 0W-40 is the best option.
Does anyone else think the same?
I don’t want to start another huge thread about exactly what oil to be used but.....
I agree Magnitec is probably the best, as the oil is designed to retain the lubrication layer for as long as possible....as it says on the tin... even after a good time sitting, as many TVR's do.
However I can’t help but apply logic to the requirement of the oil in a dry sump engine.
As TVR's are dry sump, on a cold start you want oil ASAP to be flowing around the engine, especially as these engines are known for the cold start wear rate.
Therefore what you want is a very thin oil at cold temps you get the oil very quickly through the system and running around the engine without putting a huge load on the oil pump and the surfaces are lubricated quickly. Then once it’s up to temperature there is no issue with the cold viscosity of the oil it’s the warm viscosity you require.
As you know the first number of oil refers to the cold viscosity, therefore I personally think that 0W-40 is the best option.
Does anyone else think the same?
weeman6556 said:
Hi gents,
I don’t want to start another huge thread about exactly what oil to be used but.....
I agree Magnitec is probably the best, as the oil is designed to retain the lubrication layer for as long as possible....as it says on the tin... even after a good time sitting, as many TVR's do.
However I can’t help but apply logic to the requirement of the oil in a dry sump engine.
As TVR's are dry sump, on a cold start you want oil ASAP to be flowing around the engine, especially as these engines are known for the cold start wear rate.
Therefore what you want is a very thin oil at cold temps you get the oil very quickly through the system and running around the engine without putting a huge load on the oil pump and the surfaces are lubricated quickly. Then once it’s up to temperature there is no issue with the cold viscosity of the oil it’s the warm viscosity you require.
As you know the first number of oil refers to the cold viscosity, therefore I personally think that 0W-40 is the best option.
Does anyone else think the same?
When oil was discussed last time, I thought those using 0/40 reported high oil consumption? Had mine serviced twice now, first garage used 10/40 and second 10/50, both fully synth - didn't notice much difference between the two.I don’t want to start another huge thread about exactly what oil to be used but.....
I agree Magnitec is probably the best, as the oil is designed to retain the lubrication layer for as long as possible....as it says on the tin... even after a good time sitting, as many TVR's do.
However I can’t help but apply logic to the requirement of the oil in a dry sump engine.
As TVR's are dry sump, on a cold start you want oil ASAP to be flowing around the engine, especially as these engines are known for the cold start wear rate.
Therefore what you want is a very thin oil at cold temps you get the oil very quickly through the system and running around the engine without putting a huge load on the oil pump and the surfaces are lubricated quickly. Then once it’s up to temperature there is no issue with the cold viscosity of the oil it’s the warm viscosity you require.
As you know the first number of oil refers to the cold viscosity, therefore I personally think that 0W-40 is the best option.
Does anyone else think the same?
Interested to know difference between fully/part synth though?
Dom at power uses 10w40 - semi synthetic.
Racing green use 0w40 - fully synthetic.
You can mix the two, as I bought the car from RG I've been using 0w40. Tends to disappear fairly quickly tho being fully synthetic and personally I think it might be a bit thin
Just make sure it's top oil and you use high quality fuel - I use optimax and also carry some octane booster with me just in case as its the low octane low quality fuel that causes detonation. Do not use supermarket petrol!!
Racing green use 0w40 - fully synthetic.
You can mix the two, as I bought the car from RG I've been using 0w40. Tends to disappear fairly quickly tho being fully synthetic and personally I think it might be a bit thin
Just make sure it's top oil and you use high quality fuel - I use optimax and also carry some octane booster with me just in case as its the low octane low quality fuel that causes detonation. Do not use supermarket petrol!!
ruta87 said:
Dom at power uses 10w40 - semi synthetic.
Racing green use 0w40 - fully synthetic.
You can mix the two, as I bought the car from RG I've been using 0w40. Tends to disappear fairly quickly tho being fully synthetic and personally I think it might be a bit thin
Just make sure it's top oil and you use high quality fuel - I use optimax and also carry some octane booster with me just in case as its the low octane low quality fuel that causes detonation. Do not use supermarket petrol!!
I similarly use 0w40 fully synthetic, and I do get a little bit of usage. The way I see it, so long as I top it up the engines happier. Racing green use 0w40 - fully synthetic.
You can mix the two, as I bought the car from RG I've been using 0w40. Tends to disappear fairly quickly tho being fully synthetic and personally I think it might be a bit thin
Just make sure it's top oil and you use high quality fuel - I use optimax and also carry some octane booster with me just in case as its the low octane low quality fuel that causes detonation. Do not use supermarket petrol!!
I would never mix semi and fully synthetic its not advised as there both chemically very different. Certainly fully synthetic and mineral based is a huge nono.
I back you up there on the supermarket fuel, I put ESSO 95 octane in and the car hated it. Never ever going to risk supermarket. Sorry to say but I would stick to the big boys, BP or Shell. TVR's being parly rac eengines are the best so feed them the best I say.
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