Window ECU's - Where can I get some?
Discussion
Ok......
Still having trouble with my doors and it's getting very intermitant. I think it must be the door ECU's as the car is bone dry so can't be water causing the problems.
The problem now is the passenger window is convinced it's open and even trying setting the alarm or using the window switch inside makes no difference.
I need to get a couple of door ECU's.... any idea where I'll get some? And how much they'll be?
Does anyone know the common fault with thme? Is it dry joints? If so I could get the board re-soldered as have a client who populate Printed Circuit Boards.
Any help would be appreciated as car still can't go for MOT!!!
Still having trouble with my doors and it's getting very intermitant. I think it must be the door ECU's as the car is bone dry so can't be water causing the problems.
The problem now is the passenger window is convinced it's open and even trying setting the alarm or using the window switch inside makes no difference.
I need to get a couple of door ECU's.... any idea where I'll get some? And how much they'll be?
Does anyone know the common fault with thme? Is it dry joints? If so I could get the board re-soldered as have a client who populate Printed Circuit Boards.
Any help would be appreciated as car still can't go for MOT!!!
Does this help? http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
If you mean the encoders that sit in behind the door card (on top of the window motor) then, depending on the version, they can get corroded from water ingress. Not too expensive to replace (as Basil has said) and easy enough to do. If you do get the "older" ones, put some silicon sealant on the board before fitting them to seal them up. Otherwise, I guess you could try re-soldering any joints to see if that helps.
Andy
If you mean the encoders that sit in behind the door card (on top of the window motor) then, depending on the version, they can get corroded from water ingress. Not too expensive to replace (as Basil has said) and easy enough to do. If you do get the "older" ones, put some silicon sealant on the board before fitting them to seal them up. Otherwise, I guess you could try re-soldering any joints to see if that helps.
Andy
Basil Brush said:
Do you mean the encoders on the motors? If so I just bought a pair from Drivestyle HC for £35 each + vat. If the door thinks it's open then it's maybe the micro switch in the door latch?
I don't think it's the micro switch as I replaced that last week. unless it's come loose. This also wasn't functioning at all last week before I changed it and I was able to do the window up from the inside of the car.I think it's the ECU which are under the centre consol. What do the encoders on the window motors do?
The open door stays on the lcd which it didn't last week when I had replaced the micro switch. I'm vey puzzled as to what it could be.
Phil,
If the system thinks the door is still open then I don't think it is the encoders or the door ECU's but more likely to be the door pin/micro-switch connection. If the micro-switch has been replaced then maybe the door needs hanging better or the actuation of the micro-switch needs to be checked. Does it make a difference if you push the door from the outside when it is closed?
Andy
If the system thinks the door is still open then I don't think it is the encoders or the door ECU's but more likely to be the door pin/micro-switch connection. If the micro-switch has been replaced then maybe the door needs hanging better or the actuation of the micro-switch needs to be checked. Does it make a difference if you push the door from the outside when it is closed?
Andy
Phil, If the door open indication is still showing, have you tried closing the door mechanism with a pen or similar to simulate the door closing? At least you can then 'wiggle' the mechanism to see if that makes any difference. Whatever you do, don't forget to 'open' the door and lower the window or you'll risk hitting the door frame or mechanism when you try to close the door for real.
Rgds, Phil
Rgds, Phil
It does sometimes make a difference if you push the door but no difference to the door open on the LCD.
I'm going to have a look at the whole lot of it on Sunday. Going to check wiring clean contacts, reflow the solder joints and water seal the window motor encoders.
My Suspicion is that there's a dodgy connection or solder joint causing my problems.
What do I use to water seal the boards? Where can I get some?
Cheers for all the advice.
I'm going to have a look at the whole lot of it on Sunday. Going to check wiring clean contacts, reflow the solder joints and water seal the window motor encoders.
My Suspicion is that there's a dodgy connection or solder joint causing my problems.
What do I use to water seal the boards? Where can I get some?
Cheers for all the advice.
Check the harness connectors for corrosion as well, if you find corrosion here, clean the contact pins thoroughly, reassemble, plug together and pack the back of the plugs with silicone based grease (stop water getting in). For sealing the pcb's you could use the same grease or better still use a non acetic acid type silicone sealant.
As for the fault diagnosis, the other guys have covered all I could come up with. The positioning of the micro switch is critical and on mine there is enough position adjustment to stop them working properly.
Good luck
G
As for the fault diagnosis, the other guys have covered all I could come up with. The positioning of the micro switch is critical and on mine there is enough position adjustment to stop them working properly.
Good luck
G
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