Done slave,done master clutch still wont go in gear.

[duntus]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 09 May 2009 at 22:01

[Jim Green]

Assuming of course that you bled the system properly. (Not being funny).

[PetrolHeadPete]

clutch remote bleed is under the airbox
on a bracket fixed to the starter motor
also check that pedal pushes the cyl piston
far enough...making mine push another 5mm
made a huge difference

[XTR2Turbo]

They are hard to bleed well. You really need a good quality pressure bleeder

[PetrolHeadPete]

I used one of those Gunson
eezibleed jobs pressurized off a tyre
screwfix have them for about £16

[XTR2Turbo]

I tried the same to bleed mine and couldn't get gears. took it to a mechanic friend with an electric bleeder and made a massive difference.

Based on my experience, your problem is most likely that it needs to be bled better than you have managed.

[XTR2Turbo]

Solid now. In the end it was done by STR8 SIX

[Kitchski]

Doesn't the Tuscan use the T5 box? Had a dodgey release arm on the Chim where the clutch was so worn that the preload on the arm caused the pivot to bust through the arm, but that causes the pedal to drop. Don't know if the Tuscan's bell housing is similar or not though?

If the pedal is still at the right height and the clutch just not working effectively enough to allow you to change gear, it nearly always turns out the be the master, as they can leak internally. The slave usually leaves a small deposit on your driveway, but suffers the same symptoms. What colour was the fluid?

If you've already done slave and master there must be air in it, or maybe a pipe is drawing air in? You'd have dribble somewhere though.

Assuming it's not a gear selection issue and indeed the clutch, try putting it in first with engine off, push clutch fully and crank it over. If it creeps forward then we're on the right page. If it jumps forward and tries to kill someone or something then it's a bigger problem.