reverse gear synchro not working?
Discussion
Engaging reverse has suddenly become a difficult thing to do.
I have always used the 5th->reverse trick to go into reverse and have never had any problems, but the last 2 times I have been out, I cannot engage reverse without a severe crunching of the gears. Double De-clutching / 5th-> reverse or 3rd-> reverse make no difference.
It looks as though the synchro between 5th and reverse is no longer working. I seem to remember other people having a similar issue but searching the forums yielded very little.....
Has anyone any ideas of what my plan of action should be?
Can this be fixed relatively easily or is it a gearbox / clutch replacement job (I would have thought that if the whole lot needs to come out, I might as well replace new for old)
If it is a replacement job, I am currently leaning towards waiting til the gearbox goes pop and getting a new one then
comments ?
I have always used the 5th->reverse trick to go into reverse and have never had any problems, but the last 2 times I have been out, I cannot engage reverse without a severe crunching of the gears. Double De-clutching / 5th-> reverse or 3rd-> reverse make no difference.
It looks as though the synchro between 5th and reverse is no longer working. I seem to remember other people having a similar issue but searching the forums yielded very little.....
Has anyone any ideas of what my plan of action should be?
Can this be fixed relatively easily or is it a gearbox / clutch replacement job (I would have thought that if the whole lot needs to come out, I might as well replace new for old)
If it is a replacement job, I am currently leaning towards waiting til the gearbox goes pop and getting a new one then
comments ?
There is no syncro on reverse. Difficulty selecting reverse is the first sign that the clutch is on the way out. It'll be either the slave cylinder or the diaphram spring fingers breaking off. Typically this happens after about 15-20k miles on a clutch.
It will gradually get worse and worse until it's very difficult/impossible to engage first from a standstill and the car will creep forward when it's in gear but the clutch is in. Your choice as to how far you want to drive before it leaves you stranded by the side of the road, and don't say you weren't warned.
Replace it with one of the improved Raceproved/TVR Power clutches. Costs about a grand all in.
It will gradually get worse and worse until it's very difficult/impossible to engage first from a standstill and the car will creep forward when it's in gear but the clutch is in. Your choice as to how far you want to drive before it leaves you stranded by the side of the road, and don't say you weren't warned.

Replace it with one of the improved Raceproved/TVR Power clutches. Costs about a grand all in.
Mine started to do this last year, i thought the same, re gearbox, but it turned out this was an early sign of clutch failure.
If 1st starts to get hard to engage soon, and the clutch pedal feels heavier, then i would say it is your clutch on its way out.
What happens is the fingers on the pressure plate break off, gradually making it almost impossible to change gear.
Check if your brake/clutch fluid resevoir is lower than normal, it could also be the slave cylinder leaking.
Clutches seem to last around 20 to 25k, not bad for this type of performance
DVS Dave, you beet me to it!!
If 1st starts to get hard to engage soon, and the clutch pedal feels heavier, then i would say it is your clutch on its way out.
What happens is the fingers on the pressure plate break off, gradually making it almost impossible to change gear.
Check if your brake/clutch fluid resevoir is lower than normal, it could also be the slave cylinder leaking.
Clutches seem to last around 20 to 25k, not bad for this type of performance

DVS Dave, you beet me to it!!
Edited by Mark A S on Wednesday 27th May 13:15
Mine started doing this last year and is still doing it. It's sometimes difficult and sometimes easy to get in gear but reverse is always the worst.
My clutch bites half way on the pedal travel and it feels the same weight as when I got it. It had an engine re-build about 4k ago and the clutch wasn't replaced as was described to the previous owner (who had the work done) as fine.
It's due it's 2 year brake fluid change and I belive the fluid servers the clutch as well?? But I could be wrong. I've read on here in the last few weeks that if the system is not drained/bled correctly it's impossible to get the car in gear.
It's my weekend car and has been doing it for about 1k now so don't really want to get the clutch changed to find it something much easier/cheaper.
My car is due a service and a fluid change so going to get those done first as they have to be done and see if it makes a difference.
I recall also reading that engine mounts can casue this sympton as well??
Any further comments would be intersting as it seems to be a common problem.
My clutch bites half way on the pedal travel and it feels the same weight as when I got it. It had an engine re-build about 4k ago and the clutch wasn't replaced as was described to the previous owner (who had the work done) as fine.
It's due it's 2 year brake fluid change and I belive the fluid servers the clutch as well?? But I could be wrong. I've read on here in the last few weeks that if the system is not drained/bled correctly it's impossible to get the car in gear.
It's my weekend car and has been doing it for about 1k now so don't really want to get the clutch changed to find it something much easier/cheaper.
My car is due a service and a fluid change so going to get those done first as they have to be done and see if it makes a difference.
I recall also reading that engine mounts can casue this sympton as well??
Any further comments would be intersting as it seems to be a common problem.
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