clutch biting point
Discussion
Sounds odd. My biting point is well down on the travel of the clutch pedal. About 1-1 1/2" from the bottom of it's travel. Having the biting point too high risks over extending the slave cylinder and diaphram spring leading to early failure. Have you tried adjusting the rod lengths and pivot points on the pedal mechanism?
The rod length wont alter the distance the peddle moves until the clutch slips, it will alter the resting height and the total distance travelled by the clutch master cylinder piston (dependant of the clutch stop).
It might feel like its biting lower down, buts only because the peddle is lower down in the first place.
It might feel like its biting lower down, buts only because the peddle is lower down in the first place.
Sorry, I should have been more specific. To adjust the biting point, you need to adjust the rod length on the actual master cylinder, and then adjust the rod linking the pedal to the crank to reposition the pedal accordingly.
If you shorten the master cylinder rod, then lengthen the pedal rod, that will move the biting point lower.
If you shorten the master cylinder rod, then lengthen the pedal rod, that will move the biting point lower.
The Master cylinder rod is threaded into the linkage that connects it to the pedal crank. Undo the lock nut on the rod then simply "unscrew" the rod from the linkage to lengthen it, and then tighten the lock nut back up onto the linkage.
I adjusted mine over the weekend to bring the biting point up as it was a bit too low for my liking.
ETA: You'll need to shorten the rod to lower the biting point.
I adjusted mine over the weekend to bring the biting point up as it was a bit too low for my liking.
ETA: You'll need to shorten the rod to lower the biting point.
Edited by dvs_dave on Wednesday 14th October 17:52
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