Replacing digital readout screen - it is easy!
Discussion
Many thanks to that man Bishy for posting instructions many months ago on changing the digital screen - it really is easy.
For those of you with partial visibility get it done! Under 2 hours of work and saved the palava of sending it away or being without the car while someone else did this for me.
Got the replacement screen from TVR Power for c.£100. Bishy's instructions are great apart from adding in that the connectors/leads from the controls on either side of the screen (lights, hazards etc) have to be unplugged from the rear of the electronic unit before it can be removed.
It is a bit fiddly but perfectly do-able for an amateur!
PM me if anyone has any particular questions.
For those of you with partial visibility get it done! Under 2 hours of work and saved the palava of sending it away or being without the car while someone else did this for me.
Got the replacement screen from TVR Power for c.£100. Bishy's instructions are great apart from adding in that the connectors/leads from the controls on either side of the screen (lights, hazards etc) have to be unplugged from the rear of the electronic unit before it can be removed.
It is a bit fiddly but perfectly do-able for an amateur!
PM me if anyone has any particular questions.
Don't have the link but had previously copied the instructions. Below is Bishy's guide (in normal font) and I have added a few points in italics.
It's a really easy job, so here goes.
Pod Out:-
Two screws to be removed to take off top cover of the POD, one either side.
These screws are low down and forward - this is indeed all that holds the top cover in place! The extra bit on top of the pod cover that houses the change-up lights stays connected to the top cover of the pod – mine had one connector coming out of this which plugs into one of the boards on the electronic assembly (Pod) that you are removing.
Once top cover is lifted up three cable connectors need to be disconnected, one which controls back light level of dash, one for change up lights, and one for intermittent wipe. All easily disconnected and easy to identify and re connect.
Once pod cover removed, I removed 2 x screws from LHS bracket holding aluminium pod surround, just to gain some room to manouevre.
I removed the screws from both LHS and RHS brackets – you need to be able to create as much exit room for the electronic assembly/Pod as possible. I also noticed that these brackets were loose where they connect to the frame for the dashboard – worth checking as you're doing this job.
Then,4 x screws that connect pod to alloy surround, easily identifiable.
Then disconnect main plug at rear (squeeze top and bottom clip and pull backwards)and 2 more cables connecting front alloy surround to pod. Again really easy to identify.
Be careful with these flat cables connecting the controls built into the aluminium surround. They get caught between the pod and the mounting bracket – need to keep opening the mounting brackets to stop them being pinched.
Now Pod is ready to remove by gently rotating and manouevering around brackets.
Take your time with this. Lift the back of the Pod a bit and be careful to keep the edges of the brass surface from catching on the alloy housing.
Once out of car, with use of medium sized phillips screwdriver and adjustable spanner, remove screws and spacer/nuts to slowly remove each layer of circuit board (4 in total). Once you have removed screws just gently pull apart. Not difficult at all.
Finally, the last circuit board is the one with the screen attached, and four phillips screws later its out.
Install new card and then re insert all the other cards. (Battery in one of the cards retains all info, i.e. mileage etc).
This is where I hit the only fiddly bit. One edge of the screen very slightly slots under an machined aluminium housing which holds the gears for the mechanical speedo. I had to loosen off the screws holding this aluminium housing so that I could place the new screen correctly (I had prised the old one out but was being very careful with the new screen!). Be careful not to undo the wrong screws on this housing – two hold the whole housing on, another two keep the gears in place.
The re installation process is a simple reversal of the above and very straight forward.
To do the whole job, I needed one medium sized phillips screwdriver and a medium sized adjustable spanner, plus 1 hour of spare time. Take it steady pulling the circuit boards apart and you will have no problems.
If you have any questions, please PM me, not a problem.
Bishy
It's a really easy job, so here goes.
Pod Out:-
Two screws to be removed to take off top cover of the POD, one either side.
These screws are low down and forward - this is indeed all that holds the top cover in place! The extra bit on top of the pod cover that houses the change-up lights stays connected to the top cover of the pod – mine had one connector coming out of this which plugs into one of the boards on the electronic assembly (Pod) that you are removing.
Once top cover is lifted up three cable connectors need to be disconnected, one which controls back light level of dash, one for change up lights, and one for intermittent wipe. All easily disconnected and easy to identify and re connect.
Once pod cover removed, I removed 2 x screws from LHS bracket holding aluminium pod surround, just to gain some room to manouevre.
I removed the screws from both LHS and RHS brackets – you need to be able to create as much exit room for the electronic assembly/Pod as possible. I also noticed that these brackets were loose where they connect to the frame for the dashboard – worth checking as you're doing this job.
Then,4 x screws that connect pod to alloy surround, easily identifiable.
Then disconnect main plug at rear (squeeze top and bottom clip and pull backwards)and 2 more cables connecting front alloy surround to pod. Again really easy to identify.
Be careful with these flat cables connecting the controls built into the aluminium surround. They get caught between the pod and the mounting bracket – need to keep opening the mounting brackets to stop them being pinched.
Now Pod is ready to remove by gently rotating and manouevering around brackets.
Take your time with this. Lift the back of the Pod a bit and be careful to keep the edges of the brass surface from catching on the alloy housing.
Once out of car, with use of medium sized phillips screwdriver and adjustable spanner, remove screws and spacer/nuts to slowly remove each layer of circuit board (4 in total). Once you have removed screws just gently pull apart. Not difficult at all.
Finally, the last circuit board is the one with the screen attached, and four phillips screws later its out.
Install new card and then re insert all the other cards. (Battery in one of the cards retains all info, i.e. mileage etc).
This is where I hit the only fiddly bit. One edge of the screen very slightly slots under an machined aluminium housing which holds the gears for the mechanical speedo. I had to loosen off the screws holding this aluminium housing so that I could place the new screen correctly (I had prised the old one out but was being very careful with the new screen!). Be careful not to undo the wrong screws on this housing – two hold the whole housing on, another two keep the gears in place.
The re installation process is a simple reversal of the above and very straight forward.
To do the whole job, I needed one medium sized phillips screwdriver and a medium sized adjustable spanner, plus 1 hour of spare time. Take it steady pulling the circuit boards apart and you will have no problems.
If you have any questions, please PM me, not a problem.
Bishy
The new screen comes with a plastic protective film over it which should have been removed. It may have been left on in your car? I don't know if it can be removed without going right through the process as if you were going to change the screen - I don't think so since the plastic protective film is bigger than the screen which is tight up against the 'window'.
As I say, not that big a job anyway but shame someone left this on.....
As I say, not that big a job anyway but shame someone left this on.....
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