Checking the oil level
Discussion
Hello there, long time reader, first time poster. Recently got my Tuscan back after a small accident (had the car off the road for 6 weeks, first time I took it out it jumped off the road, literally 5 minutes after going out - turns out the tyres had gone solid from lack of use and I was lucky I was only doing 20mph when I first touched the accelerator in a bend...)
Anyway, car's back and looking beautiful. Went to check the oil level after my first week of having it back and follwed the info on mytuscan.co.uk (have done it before but wanted to make sure I was following procedure). Freaked out as there was no oil on the dipstick. Gave Racing Green a call and they said to wait 10 minutes after stopping before checking. Again, no oil evident on the dipstick.
This has me really worried. Thing is the car is running like a dream, oil temp holds at around 65-75 when on the road and when I was sat in traffic the other day it never went past 90. Pressure starts at around 50psi when cold and drops to 40ish once warmed up.
I'm terrified of doing damage to the engine and really want to make sure I've got enough oil in it. Just doesn't seem right that there's not even a little oil on the dipstick when I tested it. I've put a couple of litres extra in and still no sign of an oil level.
Can anyone help/guide me? Firstly on how to make sure I'm checking right and why I might not be seeing oil on the dipstick, secondly (and based on answers to the first question) how much oil to put in, is it possible to put too much in, what damaging effects might putting too much in have...
Secondary note, I live in Andover and work just outside Maidenhead, would be interested to hear if any of you guys live in the area?
Anyway, car's back and looking beautiful. Went to check the oil level after my first week of having it back and follwed the info on mytuscan.co.uk (have done it before but wanted to make sure I was following procedure). Freaked out as there was no oil on the dipstick. Gave Racing Green a call and they said to wait 10 minutes after stopping before checking. Again, no oil evident on the dipstick.
This has me really worried. Thing is the car is running like a dream, oil temp holds at around 65-75 when on the road and when I was sat in traffic the other day it never went past 90. Pressure starts at around 50psi when cold and drops to 40ish once warmed up.
I'm terrified of doing damage to the engine and really want to make sure I've got enough oil in it. Just doesn't seem right that there's not even a little oil on the dipstick when I tested it. I've put a couple of litres extra in and still no sign of an oil level.
Can anyone help/guide me? Firstly on how to make sure I'm checking right and why I might not be seeing oil on the dipstick, secondly (and based on answers to the first question) how much oil to put in, is it possible to put too much in, what damaging effects might putting too much in have...
Secondary note, I live in Andover and work just outside Maidenhead, would be interested to hear if any of you guys live in the area?
Firstly you need to check the Oil level when the Oil Temp is up to operating temperature, i.e around 60.
Remove your dipstick, wipe it, screw it back in and then remove again to see your reading.
Add oil until it reads at the max.
If you look at it when cold, if its full, you will get a little on the bottom of the dip stick, well you do on mine!
DON’T fill up to the max when its cold, or your engine will eat the oil and spit it out
I am nr Winchester.
Remove your dipstick, wipe it, screw it back in and then remove again to see your reading.
Add oil until it reads at the max.
If you look at it when cold, if its full, you will get a little on the bottom of the dip stick, well you do on mine!
DON’T fill up to the max when its cold, or your engine will eat the oil and spit it out
I am nr Winchester.
check the oil when it's on running temp. (60 degrees celcius)
1. park the car somewere were it's horizontal
2. open the service bonnet.
3. then stall the engine
4. unscrew the dipstick, wipe and turn it back in, take it out and check level (allways use the same method)
synthetic thin oil, like 0w-something, is likely to run through.
10w- (castrol edge) or 15w- (mobil 1) is better.
difference between bottom and top notch is 1 liter
while it's a drysump system overfilling is not that big an issue
gr rens
1. park the car somewere were it's horizontal
2. open the service bonnet.
3. then stall the engine
4. unscrew the dipstick, wipe and turn it back in, take it out and check level (allways use the same method)
synthetic thin oil, like 0w-something, is likely to run through.
10w- (castrol edge) or 15w- (mobil 1) is better.
difference between bottom and top notch is 1 liter
while it's a drysump system overfilling is not that big an issue
gr rens
Guys, really appreciate your comments. Each time I've tested it has been at full operationg temperature, once immediately after stopping the engine, the other ten minutes after stopping. I'll put the rest of the oil from my 4 litre can in and see if that shows anything.
How much oil does the engine hold total? And would my operating temperatures be so consistent if I had a major lack of oil in the car?
Mark, would be nice to meet up sometime, perhaps at a local event/meet of some sort? Or even for a beer one evening/weekend!
Rens - been a fan of your posts for a while! Read a lot of your comments when choosing tyres. Ended up going with T1Rs, before you say it I know! Asked Racing Green to quote me on the R1R's, they weren't even aware of them. they came back and said that they'd called up Toyo and were told it was a racing tyre. Ended up taking the T1R's to be on the safe side plus the cost was a fair difference and I've been out of work for a couple of months so needed to trim the costs as best I could!
How much oil does the engine hold total? And would my operating temperatures be so consistent if I had a major lack of oil in the car?
Mark, would be nice to meet up sometime, perhaps at a local event/meet of some sort? Or even for a beer one evening/weekend!
Rens - been a fan of your posts for a while! Read a lot of your comments when choosing tyres. Ended up going with T1Rs, before you say it I know! Asked Racing Green to quote me on the R1R's, they weren't even aware of them. they came back and said that they'd called up Toyo and were told it was a racing tyre. Ended up taking the T1R's to be on the safe side plus the cost was a fair difference and I've been out of work for a couple of months so needed to trim the costs as best I could!
Konrod said:
You say you had a little accident, are you sure that you don't have a oil leak where something has not been put back right (one of the hoses etc.)? No oil on the stick at operating temperature does sound scary and I'd be concerned as well.
Checking the oil on the tuscan can be a right pain in the arse! Sometimes mine shows nothing on the dipstick at operating temps, then the next day it will be halfway down the dipstick. I think you need to get the timing just right otherwise the oil will start making its way back into the block.
I had exactly the same problem in the past - even after a 12k service. It might well just be the little oil tank filter being blocked with mud and silicone ...
This is what RG explains about it:
Oil tank filter
Part No TVR E1169
"Oil tank filter which fits into the dry sump oil tank of all TVR Speed 6 engines. This is the small conical filter which fits in the fitting on the side of the dry sump oil tank and filters the flow on its return to the oil tank from the scavenge pump. This filter shoulds be checked regularly as even a slight blockage puts undue strain on scavenge pump. The use of silicone sealant on the TVR Speed 6 engine although recommended can lead to debris accumulating in this filter which restricts flow. There is a strong arguement to not having this filter in place as its benefits are questionable but if it is in place it should be checked at regular intervals. The Filtermag should be considered as a better product and one which is more suitable and relevant to keeping harmful metal particles out of the oil flow."
This is what RG explains about it:
Oil tank filter
Part No TVR E1169
"Oil tank filter which fits into the dry sump oil tank of all TVR Speed 6 engines. This is the small conical filter which fits in the fitting on the side of the dry sump oil tank and filters the flow on its return to the oil tank from the scavenge pump. This filter shoulds be checked regularly as even a slight blockage puts undue strain on scavenge pump. The use of silicone sealant on the TVR Speed 6 engine although recommended can lead to debris accumulating in this filter which restricts flow. There is a strong arguement to not having this filter in place as its benefits are questionable but if it is in place it should be checked at regular intervals. The Filtermag should be considered as a better product and one which is more suitable and relevant to keeping harmful metal particles out of the oil flow."
Edited by Funky Jo on Thursday 18th March 23:21
rens914 said:
check the oil when it's on running temp. (60 degrees celcius)
1. park the car somewere were it's horizontal
2. open the service bonnet.
3. then stall the engine
4. unscrew the dipstick, wipe and turn it back in, take it out and check level (allways use the same method)
synthetic thin oil, like 0w-something, is likely to run through.
10w- (castrol edge) or 15w- (mobil 1) is better.
difference between bottom and top notch is 1 liter
while it's a drysump system overfilling is not that big an issue
gr rens
agree; lately I leave my engine running when checking the oil (learned that from a Ferrari driver), that way it's consistent and you don't need to rush. 10W/15W-50 is a must. Mobil 1 or Silkolene Pro S.1. park the car somewere were it's horizontal
2. open the service bonnet.
3. then stall the engine
4. unscrew the dipstick, wipe and turn it back in, take it out and check level (allways use the same method)
synthetic thin oil, like 0w-something, is likely to run through.
10w- (castrol edge) or 15w- (mobil 1) is better.
difference between bottom and top notch is 1 liter
while it's a drysump system overfilling is not that big an issue
gr rens
GT TVR said:
rens914 said:
check the oil when it's on running temp. (60 degrees celcius)
1. park the car somewere were it's horizontal
2. open the service bonnet.
3. then stall the engine
4. unscrew the dipstick, wipe and turn it back in, take it out and check level (allways use the same method)
synthetic thin oil, like 0w-something, is likely to run through.
10w- (castrol edge) or 15w- (mobil 1) is better.
difference between bottom and top notch is 1 liter
while it's a drysump system overfilling is not that big an issue
gr rens
agree; lately I leave my engine running when checking the oil (learned that from a Ferrari driver), that way it's consistent and you don't need to rush. 10W/15W-50 is a must. Mobil 1 or Silkolene Pro S.1. park the car somewere were it's horizontal
2. open the service bonnet.
3. then stall the engine
4. unscrew the dipstick, wipe and turn it back in, take it out and check level (allways use the same method)
synthetic thin oil, like 0w-something, is likely to run through.
10w- (castrol edge) or 15w- (mobil 1) is better.
difference between bottom and top notch is 1 liter
while it's a drysump system overfilling is not that big an issue
gr rens
Engine up to temp, leave it running.
Unscrew dipstick, take out and wipe clean. Then I place the stick back but not screwed in. Remove and check level.
Your looking more for consistency than an accurate level.
It is possible to get a reading turning the engine off but I tend to find the rate the oil drains back into the sump is too quick for me to run round and check it properly and consistently.
BTW - What did RG mean by leaving the car 10 minutes? After that time you'd have no oil left in the tank to read from.
Thanks for all the comments, really appreciated. I'm hopeful that as Racing Green did the repair work they would have checked that the oil etc was in good working order but based on the fact the advised me to wait 10 minutes after shutting off the car to check the oil level I don't think I should assume anything!
I'll try checking it with the engine running later on. Hopefully that will show me some oil on the dipstick. If not I'll be taking a look at whether there is any oil leakages and if not, will review the comment on the oil flow filter and see if that helps me out.
Just to clarify, I thought 15w 40 was the recommended? Should I be using this or 15w 50 as a couple of you have referenced?
I'll try checking it with the engine running later on. Hopefully that will show me some oil on the dipstick. If not I'll be taking a look at whether there is any oil leakages and if not, will review the comment on the oil flow filter and see if that helps me out.
Just to clarify, I thought 15w 40 was the recommended? Should I be using this or 15w 50 as a couple of you have referenced?
So, leaving the engine running was the answer. Dipstick was covered in oil, quite a bit over the Max level too. From what I understand this isn't too much of a problem though right?
Anyway, thanks for all the help, at least now I'm not freaking out thinking the engine is going to blow up! However I do have a new issue and I'll be starting another post for that one...
Anyway, thanks for all the help, at least now I'm not freaking out thinking the engine is going to blow up! However I do have a new issue and I'll be starting another post for that one...
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