Battery size issues

[Curdster]

Help. I need a new car battery but can't find one to fit my MK1 Tuscan W Reg.
Took the car to Kwik Fit and their battery of 278X175X190 was too wide, but was the same dimensions as that of the recommended Varta on the Mytuscan site. The fitter said it was 10mm to wide across the front as depth and height were ok and I don't want to to start cutting stuff out of the way. KF could not help any further.
So i need a battery of circa 268mm but not sure what I need. Any ideas.
I know the CCA should be above 600 but no idea about the AH number or anything else.

Edited by Curdster on Thursday 6th January 21:07

[Daston]

Did they move the holding bracket? By the Anderson connector there is an L shaped bit of metal that is bolted to the Chassis, I just removed that and the battery fitted snug between the 2 rails.

[Curdster]

Datson. No idea I don't think he did given the time spent in the wheel arch appeared quick. Will have a look.

[WhyTwo]

Suggest you go for a Red Top http://www.tayna.co.uk/Optima-Red-Top-Batteries-S1...

Expensive but apparently worth it. I bought one following advice on here but in the end I got my old battery replaced FOC under warranty so returned the Red Top. If mine goes again I'll be buying one of these

[Curdster]

Does anyone have any pictures of how the battery is secured onto the tray?

[Full Throttle]

Your modified battery clamp set up looks functional but I am not sure it’s really that safe in my opinion. You hardly have any clearance between your live battery cable and the bracket you are using to hold the battery in place, problem is that bracket is connected directly to earth via the chassis! Any movement or play then bye bye Tuscan! ! I have seen many battery clamp modifications where people have put metal brackets over the top of the battery, to me it just doesn’t make sense it’s so risky unless they are engineered to fit. Other modifications I have seen are ratchet straps which I think are the safest cheap fix, but not sure how long they will last as there not designed to holding batteries in place. I opted for a smaller sized battery with the terminals the opposite way round, so the positive terminal was nearer the n/s off the car and the negative terminal was nearer the chassis rail, so less chance on shorting even in a collision accident and the live terminal a bit further away from them cooking cats! This involved having a new smaller sized battery, battery cables, terminal covers, I also manufactured new L Shape brackets to hold the battery on its feet and to the chassis as this is how batteries have been designed to be held in place. The original brackets TVR Used are made from too thin steel anyway! And won’t suit smaller sized batteries. I also went for a new Anderson connecter and cabling, insulated the Anderson connector cabling with heat shrink and silicon to stop any moisture causing corrosion to the terminals and used stainless fasteners throughout. Checked all the cables couldn’t rub on the chassis and fitted new fibre glass insulation on the live feed to the starter, this cable is zip tied to the chassis so supposedly can’t move, but if zip ties break due to exhaust heat etc then that cable can rub on the chassis! Too many Tuscans have died by catching fire, in my opinion by the battery being the wrong way round, Anderson connectors failing due age/condition or the live cabling rubbing then shorting out on chassis, negative cabling or fasteners. I think any Tuscan owner needs to check theses areas before they worry about other possible problems or servicing. It seems low volume production cars have problems with catching on fire i.e. Tuscans, Gallardo’s, Ferrari 458. (Google it) I think this is due to them not being mass produced so problems like catching due to battery or exhaust problems take longer to get noticed and sorted properly or possibly ignored for a period of time! If it happened on a mass produced vehicle it would be recalled and sorted. Sorry to go on about these points I just feel they should be said to help others reduce the risk of losing their cherished TVR’s.

Please also see http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... - Battery Charge Point

Maybe I should of post my comments in that topic also or instead.

Thanks

RM75 said:

This is the standard L-shaped thing (bottom right)...



On mine that had rusted and seized to the bolt so I couldn't undo it. I got one of these clamps instead http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest... which I think is more secure...

Edited by Full Throttle on Friday 7th January 14:53

[x 7usc]

go to a motor factors with a drawing of the battery showing sizes and layout of + and - terminals and they will find you an exact replacement, i used my local motor factors (unity motors) on terrace road (not to far for you ian) and they had one in stock and didnt cost me a fortune, also an easy swap, set aside several hrs and was done inside one.

[Curdster]

Guys thanks you for all your help with this, and thanks Mark for the local autos. Final question, other than the CCA and being 12volts, what other numbers do I need or is that it. Do the numbers liek 072 relate to the actual dimensions?