The Quick Fix Thread
Discussion
Make sure the scuttle panel which sits beneath the windscreen is fitted when running engine
Otherwise you risk the radiant heat from the exhaust manifold melting the coolant tank and loosing all coolant
Perhaps the quick fix is "Always fit the scuttle panel before running the engine"
Guess how I found out
With hindsight I think the more serious risk is that the battery case could melt
Otherwise you risk the radiant heat from the exhaust manifold melting the coolant tank and loosing all coolant
Perhaps the quick fix is "Always fit the scuttle panel before running the engine"
Guess how I found out
With hindsight I think the more serious risk is that the battery case could melt
RUSSELLM said:
I wouldn’t mind a boot light, with a switch on it.
On the odd occasion, I have the boot up, but want the light off
Reminds me of the occasion where I found the following in the back of a friends carOn the odd occasion, I have the boot up, but want the light off
Cable ties, Carpet tape, Box cutter, Condoms
I'm still sure there was a genuine reason
ukkid35 said:
RUSSELLM said:
I wouldn’t mind a boot light, with a switch on it.
On the odd occasion, I have the boot up, but want the light off
Reminds me of the occasion where I found the following in the back of a friends carOn the odd occasion, I have the boot up, but want the light off
Cable ties, Carpet tape, Box cutter, Condoms
I'm still sure there was a genuine reason
I've found you can get a lot of things working again just by reseating connections (and ideally cleaning off any corrosion and adding some moisture protection).
-Reseating the connector in the drivers side door fixed my Front drivers side speaker/wing mirror adjustment which weren't working.
-Giving the volume adjuster for the indicator buzzer a wiggle got that working again.
-Reseating some of the door control boxes got my windows winding up better.
-boot switch was more than a re-seat, but same principle of cleaning up internal contacts got that working and keeps the boot protected by the alarm (no working switch = vulnerable boot access).
Etc.
All quick easy fixes.
-Reseating the connector in the drivers side door fixed my Front drivers side speaker/wing mirror adjustment which weren't working.
-Giving the volume adjuster for the indicator buzzer a wiggle got that working again.
-Reseating some of the door control boxes got my windows winding up better.
-boot switch was more than a re-seat, but same principle of cleaning up internal contacts got that working and keeps the boot protected by the alarm (no working switch = vulnerable boot access).
Etc.
All quick easy fixes.
I can say with 100% confidence, that on my car and any diagram I’ve seen, the switch is in no way connected to the alarm.
Wether the alarm is old school, and picks up volt drop from the boot light coming on, is a different mater. I haven’t tested that yet.
Door wise, there’s been no weatherproof connectors used in them. On the off chance that the electrical pins haven’t rotted and snapped yet, most people will find that the copper exposed wire will no longer represent anything that looks like copper
Wether the alarm is old school, and picks up volt drop from the boot light coming on, is a different mater. I haven’t tested that yet.
Door wise, there’s been no weatherproof connectors used in them. On the off chance that the electrical pins haven’t rotted and snapped yet, most people will find that the copper exposed wire will no longer represent anything that looks like copper
ukkid35 said:
Make sure the scuttle panel which sits beneath the windscreen is fitted when running engine
Otherwise you risk the radiant heat from the exhaust manifold melting the coolant tank and loosing all coolant
Perhaps the quick fix is "Always fit the scuttle panel before running the engine"
Guess how I found out
With hindsight I think the more serious risk is that the battery case could melt
Just wrap the manifolds, job done, with the engine running you can even touch them briefly, if you desire? does wonders for under bonnet temps.Otherwise you risk the radiant heat from the exhaust manifold melting the coolant tank and loosing all coolant
Perhaps the quick fix is "Always fit the scuttle panel before running the engine"
Guess how I found out
With hindsight I think the more serious risk is that the battery case could melt
I wrapped mine in 2009
Earlier this year the engine was out for a refurb, I checked the manifolds and found one small crack on each, in the usual places, no corrosion.
Here's to the next decade ..
RUSSELLM said:
I can say with 100% confidence, that on my car and any diagram I’ve seen, the switch is in no way connected to the alarm.
Wether the alarm is old school, and picks up volt drop from the boot light coming on, is a different mater. I haven’t tested that yet.
Door wise, there’s been no weatherproof connectors used in them. On the off chance that the electrical pins haven’t rotted and snapped yet, most people will find that the copper exposed wire will no longer represent anything that looks like copper
Maybe mines been fiddled with/upgraded in that case.? Definitely a meta system though.Wether the alarm is old school, and picks up volt drop from the boot light coming on, is a different mater. I haven’t tested that yet.
Door wise, there’s been no weatherproof connectors used in them. On the off chance that the electrical pins haven’t rotted and snapped yet, most people will find that the copper exposed wire will no longer represent anything that looks like copper
If I open the boot with the alarm armed, it goes off.
Rufus Roughcut said:
....
Earlier this year the engine was out for a refurb, I checked the manifolds and found one small crack on each, in the usual places, no corrosion.
Superb shot of the AJP, Rufus, in less formal surroundings Earlier this year the engine was out for a refurb, I checked the manifolds and found one small crack on each, in the usual places, no corrosion.
BTW, where are "the usual places" ??
Ta !
PJ
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Monday 22 June 15:52
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