Door Solenoid/Actuator
Discussion
Hello,
The above is the driver door solenoid/actuator that has almost given up the ghost, the rubber boot has come away which I have reattached and there seems to be a bodge job on the end of the piston!
Can someone tell me what the part number is or point me in the right direction to ordering a new one.
Cheers in advance
Martin
Byker28i said:
You need Judders useful guide
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Thanks for the link. Interesting that he believes the door should have the 5 wire connection. I have ordered one with 5 wires so will check if i have 3 spare wires somewhere in the vicinity of the door lock. It does seem that someone in the past has been messing around with the lock as seen with the screw attachment on the piston. Noted also that he thinks the operation of the boot release can/does affect the door release. Also my boot release via the Cerbera badge doesn't work but the boot release on the fob button does work.https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
The fun begins when the new one arrives and I try to install it.
Thanks very much for all the feedback.
Cheers
Martin.
Martin_MUC said:
Thanks for the link. Interesting that he believes the door should have the 5 wire connection. I have ordered one with 5 wires so will check if i have 3 spare wires somewhere in the vicinity of the door lock. It does seem that someone in the past has been messing around with the lock as seen with the screw attachment on the piston. Noted also that he thinks the operation of the boot release can/does affect the door release. Also my boot release via the Cerbera badge doesn't work but the boot release on the fob button does work.
The fun begins when the new one arrives and I try to install it.
Thanks very much for all the feedback.
Cheers
Martin.
Hi MartinThe fun begins when the new one arrives and I try to install it.
Thanks very much for all the feedback.
Cheers
Martin.
The Door and The Boot release are both controlled by the same ECU in the boot, namely the Door and Window ECU and there is a really good write up on how that all works by Imran999 over here
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Depends how far you want to go down the rabbit hole of TVR Cerbera ECUs but safe to say if that unit isn't working, neither of them will work
If you look at the relays on the PCB for the Door and Window ECU there are 6 relays as per this labelled circuit board diagram and each door has a Drive 1 and a Drive 2
I can't honestly remember if the door actuator needs the forward wires to push the actuator pin forwards again, or whether it just relies on the natural spring capabilities of the rubber boot push it back out, but if yours is ripped that that won't be helping
If you do get a 5 wire unit and you only have 2 wires, then you can just wire up the pair that pull in the pin, as that's what the Door ECU does when it unlocks the door (the three clicks you hear when you hit the door open button)
There's lots of info on how these work in those two threads (mine and Imran's) so feel free to ask any more questions as you go and upload lots of photos
BTW if your boot opens with the fob, then that sounds like an after market thing as I've not heard of that being normal, but it is cool if it does
Alex
Juddder said:
Hi Martin
The Door and The Boot release are both controlled by the same ECU in the boot, namely the Door and Window ECU and there is a really good write up on how that all works by Imran999 over here
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Depends how far you want to go down the rabbit hole of TVR Cerbera ECUs but safe to say if that unit isn't working, neither of them will work
If you look at the relays on the PCB for the Door and Window ECU there are 6 relays as per this labelled circuit board diagram and each door has a Drive 1 and a Drive 2
I can't honestly remember if the door actuator needs the forward wires to push the actuator pin forwards again, or whether it just relies on the natural spring capabilities of the rubber boot push it back out, but if yours is ripped that that won't be helping
If you do get a 5 wire unit and you only have 2 wires, then you can just wire up the pair that pull in the pin, as that's what the Door ECU does when it unlocks the door (the three clicks you hear when you hit the door open button)
There's lots of info on how these work in those two threads (mine and Imran's) so feel free to ask any more questions as you go and upload lots of photos
BTW if your boot opens with the fob, then that sounds like an after market thing as I've not heard of that being normal, but it is cool if it does
Alex
Hi AlexThe Door and The Boot release are both controlled by the same ECU in the boot, namely the Door and Window ECU and there is a really good write up on how that all works by Imran999 over here
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Depends how far you want to go down the rabbit hole of TVR Cerbera ECUs but safe to say if that unit isn't working, neither of them will work
If you look at the relays on the PCB for the Door and Window ECU there are 6 relays as per this labelled circuit board diagram and each door has a Drive 1 and a Drive 2
I can't honestly remember if the door actuator needs the forward wires to push the actuator pin forwards again, or whether it just relies on the natural spring capabilities of the rubber boot push it back out, but if yours is ripped that that won't be helping
If you do get a 5 wire unit and you only have 2 wires, then you can just wire up the pair that pull in the pin, as that's what the Door ECU does when it unlocks the door (the three clicks you hear when you hit the door open button)
There's lots of info on how these work in those two threads (mine and Imran's) so feel free to ask any more questions as you go and upload lots of photos
BTW if your boot opens with the fob, then that sounds like an after market thing as I've not heard of that being normal, but it is cool if it does
Alex
thanks for the info from yourself (and Imran) it's a great help.
On pressing the door button the window would drop as quick as ever and then there would be the sound of the actuator trying to do its job but failing. The rubber boot had slipped off but reattaching it didn't help.
Here a few pics
Old Actuator wiring....
Two wires in car that connected to the actuator...
And the new actuator wires.....
The opening of the boot via the key fob was something that Carl Baker showed me how to wire up when I fitted a new alarm and immobilizer with his invaluable help. My key fobs have a door open, door lock and boot open buttons as apposed to the old fob which only had the one button.
Cheers
Martin
FarmyardPants said:
It’s very easy to wire up a separate fob that operates the doors etc. Mine is a four-channel remote relay board that does both doors, boot and driver’s window up. Cost is about £20 and takes under an hour
@FarmyardPants That sounds cool and seeing as I had all of the alarm wiring out in pieces the other day I would imagine not particularly crazy hard to fitDo you have any pictures of the unit and the install and would be great to know where you tapped it in to the wiring loom (alarm in back seat, ECU boxes in boot etc.)
Juddder said:
FarmyardPants said:
It’s very easy to wire up a separate fob that operates the doors etc. Mine is a four-channel remote relay board that does both doors, boot and driver’s window up. Cost is about £20 and takes under an hour
@FarmyardPants That sounds cool and seeing as I had all of the alarm wiring out in pieces the other day I would imagine not particularly crazy hard to fitDo you have any pictures of the unit and the install and would be great to know where you tapped it in to the wiring loom (alarm in back seat, ECU boxes in boot etc.)
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