Drifting in a cerbie?
Discussion
Anyone tried it? Is it simple enough? or too much to handle?
Was thinking, if a TVR drifting scene started up, could be great for cerbie owners to learn the edge of handling a cerb, far better than skid-pan or track training...
Anyone know the turnersports guys? they did a few drifting sessions in the uk ricer scene with their modded cerbie, anyone know any much more about them?
Was thinking, if a TVR drifting scene started up, could be great for cerbie owners to learn the edge of handling a cerb, far better than skid-pan or track training...
Anyone know the turnersports guys? they did a few drifting sessions in the uk ricer scene with their modded cerbie, anyone know any much more about them?
I did it in April.
On the upside, the Cerbera has a decent wheelbase and has no problem breaking traction. The downsides are the soft rear suspension and lack of steering lock. The 'text book' techniques don't work. However, by the end of a morning I'd found a way of gliding around the 'peanut' shape.
The 'text book' way is to flick the car sideways (generally by turning in and booting it) then letting go of the steering wheel so it spins out to its lock stop. You then modulate the throttle to control/maintain the angle. The problem with the Cerbera is the rack is quick and there isn't much lock - by the time you've let go of the wheel and grabbed it back, it's too late (you spin out). What I found worked was to do a Scandavian Flick and break traction with a bootful BEFORE entering the beginning of the drift then work the steering wheel AND the throttle to kind of keep a four wheel drift going. Depending on when a spectator presses the shutter of a camera depends on whether they see the front wheels straight or on lock. The transition from a left to right drift takes a bit of practice to anticipate where the car will slide to. The roll oversteer from the soft suspension of a Cerbera tends to flick the car further than you'd want but after a couple of goes, I could tell where it would go and so start the transition early in order for the nose of the car to kiss the bollards as I drifted past. It was good fun - I'm keen to go again!
I'm up for organising such a day and can organise a supply of part worn rear tyres (18"
and fitting at Silverstone if some you would like a go at the next Drift Academy day?
On the upside, the Cerbera has a decent wheelbase and has no problem breaking traction. The downsides are the soft rear suspension and lack of steering lock. The 'text book' techniques don't work. However, by the end of a morning I'd found a way of gliding around the 'peanut' shape.
The 'text book' way is to flick the car sideways (generally by turning in and booting it) then letting go of the steering wheel so it spins out to its lock stop. You then modulate the throttle to control/maintain the angle. The problem with the Cerbera is the rack is quick and there isn't much lock - by the time you've let go of the wheel and grabbed it back, it's too late (you spin out). What I found worked was to do a Scandavian Flick and break traction with a bootful BEFORE entering the beginning of the drift then work the steering wheel AND the throttle to kind of keep a four wheel drift going. Depending on when a spectator presses the shutter of a camera depends on whether they see the front wheels straight or on lock. The transition from a left to right drift takes a bit of practice to anticipate where the car will slide to. The roll oversteer from the soft suspension of a Cerbera tends to flick the car further than you'd want but after a couple of goes, I could tell where it would go and so start the transition early in order for the nose of the car to kiss the bollards as I drifted past. It was good fun - I'm keen to go again!
I'm up for organising such a day and can organise a supply of part worn rear tyres (18"
and fitting at Silverstone if some you would like a go at the next Drift Academy day? BossCerbera said:
The 'text book' way is to flick the car sideways (generally by turning in and booting it) then letting go of the steering wheel so it spins out to its lock stop. You then modulate the throttle to control/maintain the angle. The problem with the Cerbera is the rack is quick and there isn't much lock - by the time you've let go of the wheel and grabbed it back, it's too late (you spin out). What I found worked was to do a Scandavian Flick and break traction with a bootful BEFORE entering the beginning of the drift then work the steering wheel AND the throttle to kind of keep a four wheel drift going.
I'll have to remember this next time we are at Westferry
SXS said:
Anyone tried it? Is it simple enough? or too much to handle?
Was thinking, if a TVR drifting scene started up, could be great for cerbie owners to learn the edge of handling a cerb, far better than skid-pan or track training...![]()
Anyone know the turnersports guys? they did a few drifting sessions in the uk ricer scene with their modded cerbie, anyone know any much more about them?
I reckon the demand for new clutches would also increase tenfold!!!
mad mark said:
I'll have to remember this next time we are at Westferry
The trouble with West Ferry is the irregular surface. I quite like the idea of drifting the last 100 yards or so before the exit to Limehouse then flicking to the other lock for the exit but I am nervous of the surface changes conspiring to give me egg on my face.

Hmmm. After spending years with the Cerbie I have to say it's not the easiest car to drift... a Caterham with half the power is infinitely easier. As mentioned earlier I'm sure it's to do with the softness, rolling and damping. In the case of my 400bhp cerbie, the hydratrack didn't help either, but scandi flick is always useful. Even a mid-engined Elise with is a damn sight easier!
dannylt said:
Hmmm. After spending years with the Cerbie I have to say it's not the easiest car to drift... a Caterham with half the power is infinitely easier. As mentioned earlier I'm sure it's to do with the softness, rolling and damping. In the case of my 400bhp cerbie, the hydratrack didn't help either, but scandi flick is always useful. Even a mid-engined Elise with is a damn sight easier!
Lol .. I still look back on our cerbie day at Donington with fondness Danny

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