Paint restorer, Best for small scrtaches?
Discussion
. It depends hpw deep the scrathes are, Is it metallic paint or sold?
If metallic, then it will have a lacquer, clear coat on top of the metallic base coat, so keep your fingers crossed that it hasnt been scratched deep enough to expose the base coat.
if the paint is a solid (ie not metallic) can you see the primer through the scratch?
In both cases this is the way to try and remove scratches. but if wont do any good if the scratch is too deep............
Go to your local car paint supplier and buy bsome P1200 grade wet and dry paper, and some good quality fine rubbing compound, and a rubber rubbing block. tell them what you are doing and they will give you the correct one.
This sounds scary, but it is the way to do it, I'm an ex-paint sprayer so I do know....
Get some warm soapy water, and dip the sandpaper in it, use loads of the soapy water, and using the rubbing block, gently sand the scratches, dont go too mad, but dont be too gentle, err on the side of caution. Dry it off, and the whole area will be dull and you will panic, now use the rubbing compound, gently with a decent soft cloth, and hey presto it will be all nice and shiny. Scary at first, but you'll find practise makes perfect/
If metallic, then it will have a lacquer, clear coat on top of the metallic base coat, so keep your fingers crossed that it hasnt been scratched deep enough to expose the base coat.
if the paint is a solid (ie not metallic) can you see the primer through the scratch?
In both cases this is the way to try and remove scratches. but if wont do any good if the scratch is too deep............
Go to your local car paint supplier and buy bsome P1200 grade wet and dry paper, and some good quality fine rubbing compound, and a rubber rubbing block. tell them what you are doing and they will give you the correct one.
This sounds scary, but it is the way to do it, I'm an ex-paint sprayer so I do know....
Get some warm soapy water, and dip the sandpaper in it, use loads of the soapy water, and using the rubbing block, gently sand the scratches, dont go too mad, but dont be too gentle, err on the side of caution. Dry it off, and the whole area will be dull and you will panic, now use the rubbing compound, gently with a decent soft cloth, and hey presto it will be all nice and shiny. Scary at first, but you'll find practise makes perfect/
I use Turtlewax 'Colour magic Plus +' on mine from time to time....ideal for 'losing' those swirl lines. www.speeding.co.uk/acatalog/Car_Accessories_Turtle_Wax__Colour_Magic___Plus_139.html
You can get Colour magic in several base colours, ie blue, red, green ,black etc, and mine came with a 'Chipstick', which is quite good for hidding small stonechips.
Now beware!!!!!!...this stuff will colour your hands too!...wear some latex gloves when using, cos you'll have blue/red/green/black hands and finger nails for days after otherwise.
And finally...I use the Colour magic first, before using my normal wax, (Autoglym) after! (yes I know...wax the car twice...but gets damn good results!)
You can get Colour magic in several base colours, ie blue, red, green ,black etc, and mine came with a 'Chipstick', which is quite good for hidding small stonechips.
Now beware!!!!!!...this stuff will colour your hands too!...wear some latex gloves when using, cos you'll have blue/red/green/black hands and finger nails for days after otherwise.
And finally...I use the Colour magic first, before using my normal wax, (Autoglym) after! (yes I know...wax the car twice...but gets damn good results!)
as jensena said is the best way to do it, I used to use the same method when i worked for volvo, and to polish it back used cutting compound called G3 made by 3M and a mop. It can really tidy un old paintwork, I wouldnt use T-cut as it has cellulose thinners in it which will make the paint go dull again not long after youve spent ages polishing it!
As for the laquer problem, really the only rememdy is to re-paint!
As for the laquer problem, really the only rememdy is to re-paint!
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