Cheap Cerb on AT
Discussion
autotrader said:
Enlarge1996 TVR CERBERA 4.2 2+2 2dr Coupe,
38,000 miles, N reg, Starmist Blue with dark blue leather interior and cream leather gear and handbrake gaiters. Excellent runner, very reliable. No break downs since i've had her (August 2005) and driven throughout the winter every day with no problems. Starts on the button no matter what the weather. Part service history (recently maintained by myself plus mechanical minded friends), MoT till August, tax till end of July. Suit someone with a bit of time to tidy her up, or someone who wants to scratch that supercar itch! Needs some interior tlc and a front respray (stone chips and driver side scratch on wing) to return her to former glory. Sale forced due to canal boat purchase and will be sadly missed. No test pilots or sales agents thank you. £8,000Telephone: 07815 444127 or 07815 444127
Email: Email Advertiser
Distance: 22 miles
Price: £8,000
Providing it's not on the register that is, even so
Depends on what the overall car is like, the engine is not the cheapest if its on its way out. There's quiet a long list of essential fixes needed by early cars (to be fair most have them).
I have a 96 'project car' which is very tidy inside and out (drivers seat scuffs a side) better than a lot of 98/99 cars and only 31K miles on it. However, there's always a rub, it came with a blown engine
, would I pay anywhere near £8k for it, I'll let you decide 
.
I have a 96 'project car' which is very tidy inside and out (drivers seat scuffs a side) better than a lot of 98/99 cars and only 31K miles on it. However, there's always a rub, it came with a blown engine
, would I pay anywhere near £8k for it, I'll let you decide .
Oh well, I bought this car. New to TVR ownership. The clutch master/slave (not sure which) seems to have gone within 2 days. Hopefully can just replace the seals. THe heater doesnt work and it doesnt appear to be the fuses. Thing pulls strongly in any gear although it sounds "tappety". Is it supposed to sound like that?
Early Cerbs had what they call 'Clatter cams', and they do sound tappety, thats just the way they are, its a hard profile race cam, designed for performance.
Re the clutch - I believe even if it is 'just' the seals, its not exactly a cheap job. I may be wrong, and if I am I'm sure someone else here will enlighten you (or upset you)
Re the clutch - I believe even if it is 'just' the seals, its not exactly a cheap job. I may be wrong, and if I am I'm sure someone else here will enlighten you (or upset you)
427James said:
Oh well, I bought this car. New to TVR ownership. The clutch master/slave (not sure which) seems to have gone within 2 days. Hopefully can just replace the seals. THe heater doesnt work and it doesnt appear to be the fuses. Thing pulls strongly in any gear although it sounds "tappety". Is it supposed to sound like that?
Good luck mate - if you can get away with less than £5k - £6K in first yr to sort it out and keep it on the road then it is a good price. Best of luck!
jensena said:
Re the clutch - I believe even if it is 'just' the seals, its not exactly a cheap job. I may be wrong, and if I am I'm sure someone else here will enlighten you (or upset you)
Any bill less than a grand is time for a celebration in Cerbland
Slave and master replacement shouldn't cost you more than £500 all in, less if it is just the seals. Even if only one set of seals have failed, get them both done at the same time, or you'll be back at the dealer within a few hours
[quote=jensena]Early Cerbs had what they call 'Clatter cams', and they do sound tappety, thats just the way they are, its a hard profile race cam, designed for performance.
sorry a bit off topic.
When measuring the cams for lift, do you just measure from the top to the bottom of the journal with a pair or verniers or micrometer?
Cheers Paul
sorry a bit off topic.
When measuring the cams for lift, do you just measure from the top to the bottom of the journal with a pair or verniers or micrometer?
Cheers Paul
you need to measure the overall height of the lobe minus the base circle, so pop the calipers over the largest portion of the cam, for the overall figure and then measure across the shortest part to get the base circle, alternativly use a dial gauge on the tappet as you rotate the cam
Matt
Matt
427James said:
Oh well, I bought this car. New to TVR ownership. The clutch master/slave (not sure which) seems to have gone within 2 days. Hopefully can just replace the seals. THe heater doesnt work and it doesnt appear to be the fuses. Thing pulls strongly in any gear although it sounds "tappety". Is it supposed to sound like that?
A week after I posted that thread, I noticed in was in Autotrader again, but being sold by a dealer with an extra grand on it
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