Discussion
Uhm,
deceided to clean the car down from the trackday,
No probs with the cleaning , even got the scratches out of the alloys.
Went to start up and could not get into any gear.
Turned off the engine no probs all gears available.
Thought about the seals (sp) checked the clutch pedal no fluid, only just had the seals (sp) done so not that.
Got into the footwell, lifted the clutch pedal and the whole lot came away.
The circlip has come out of the retainer on the clutch body bit( yeah technical I know) CYCLONE whats the deal I know this happened to you at Santapod. So what's the story, simply compress the circlip and refit? any help greatly received.
Looks pretty simply, just a very difficult position to get into.
Yeah I hacve AA, though would like to sort this myselfe if possible.
Thanks in anticipation.
Nick.
deceided to clean the car down from the trackday,
No probs with the cleaning , even got the scratches out of the alloys.
Went to start up and could not get into any gear.
Turned off the engine no probs all gears available.
Thought about the seals (sp) checked the clutch pedal no fluid, only just had the seals (sp) done so not that.
Got into the footwell, lifted the clutch pedal and the whole lot came away.
The circlip has come out of the retainer on the clutch body bit( yeah technical I know) CYCLONE whats the deal I know this happened to you at Santapod. So what's the story, simply compress the circlip and refit? any help greatly received.
Looks pretty simply, just a very difficult position to get into.
Yeah I hacve AA, though would like to sort this myselfe if possible.
Thanks in anticipation.
Nick.
Good morning Nick,
Lie on your back and slide in under the steering rack and then just under the brake and clutch pedal, you should be able to see the rod at the back of the pedal that fits into the clutch mechanism(?). You need to find the circlip and the washer, these will either be hanging on the rod or the circlip may be on the carpet in the footwell. All you need to do is to push the end of the rod back into the clutch mechanism(?), so that the pedal is in its normal position, then whilst holding it secure in that position, push the washer into place at the top of the rod just inside the mechanism (the washer will keep falling out unless you hold the pedal in position) and then push the circlip in behind the washer, you may be able to use your fingers to compress the circlip, but I used some pliers (all I had!) as my hand were hot and sweaty due to the heat and there is a fair bit of grease on the rod, some circlip pliers would be ideal. Once it is back in and feels secure you can push the gaitor back over the top of the rod. It's a simple task, but extremely awkward because the access is restricted, should take you about 15 mins.
Hopefully everything else is ok? As you said that you could get it into gear without the engine running, was this via using no clutch at all? Or was this by using the clutch and then it just went lifeless?
Jules.
Lie on your back and slide in under the steering rack and then just under the brake and clutch pedal, you should be able to see the rod at the back of the pedal that fits into the clutch mechanism(?). You need to find the circlip and the washer, these will either be hanging on the rod or the circlip may be on the carpet in the footwell. All you need to do is to push the end of the rod back into the clutch mechanism(?), so that the pedal is in its normal position, then whilst holding it secure in that position, push the washer into place at the top of the rod just inside the mechanism (the washer will keep falling out unless you hold the pedal in position) and then push the circlip in behind the washer, you may be able to use your fingers to compress the circlip, but I used some pliers (all I had!) as my hand were hot and sweaty due to the heat and there is a fair bit of grease on the rod, some circlip pliers would be ideal. Once it is back in and feels secure you can push the gaitor back over the top of the rod. It's a simple task, but extremely awkward because the access is restricted, should take you about 15 mins.
Hopefully everything else is ok? As you said that you could get it into gear without the engine running, was this via using no clutch at all? Or was this by using the clutch and then it just went lifeless?
Jules.
Hello Jules,
Yeah, I still got the washer and the circlip. Pretty much as I thought looks like a right pig to get in there.
I had noticed a very slight bit of extra play in the clutch, maybe a couple of mm or so. I guess this was the rod just sitting proud of the activating bit.
Will have a go later with the proper plyers (sp).
I hope its all it is, though if anything was realy serious then I doubt I would have made it back from Brands.
Heres hoping.
Nick.
Yeah, I still got the washer and the circlip. Pretty much as I thought looks like a right pig to get in there.
I had noticed a very slight bit of extra play in the clutch, maybe a couple of mm or so. I guess this was the rod just sitting proud of the activating bit.
Will have a go later with the proper plyers (sp).
I hope its all it is, though if anything was realy serious then I doubt I would have made it back from Brands.
Heres hoping.
Nick.
Balls,
just fixed the rod, checked the clutch fluid, well low.
Just had the seals done, what fluid is in there? 5.1 or 5.2?
Can't get through to Jules.
Am going to top up with 5.1, let you know how it goes.
Where can it have gone? no leaks showing,
Nick.
Sorted now, but the fluid going low must indicate a leak from somewhere, wil monitor the situation.
just fixed the rod, checked the clutch fluid, well low.
Just had the seals done, what fluid is in there? 5.1 or 5.2?
Can't get through to Jules.
Am going to top up with 5.1, let you know how it goes.
Where can it have gone? no leaks showing,
Nick.
Sorted now, but the fluid going low must indicate a leak from somewhere, wil monitor the situation.
Edited by Nickccc on Thursday 27th July 12:19
Nickccc said:
Balls,
just fixed the rod, checked the clutch fluid, well low.
Just had the seals done, what fluid is in there? 5.1 or 5.2?
Can't get through to Jules.
Am going to top up with 5.1, let you know how it goes.
Where can it have gone? no leaks showing,
Nick.
Sorted now, but the fluid going low must indicate a leak from somewhere, wil monitor the situation.
just fixed the rod, checked the clutch fluid, well low.
Just had the seals done, what fluid is in there? 5.1 or 5.2?
Can't get through to Jules.
Am going to top up with 5.1, let you know how it goes.
Where can it have gone? no leaks showing,
Nick.
Sorted now, but the fluid going low must indicate a leak from somewhere, wil monitor the situation.
Edited by Nickccc on Thursday 27th July 12:19
Nick, which seals have you had done, master or slave cylinder?
Edited by spartacus on Thursday 27th July 18:59
spartacus said:
Nickccc said:
Balls,
just fixed the rod, checked the clutch fluid, well low.
Just had the seals done, what fluid is in there? 5.1 or 5.2?
Can't get through to Jules.
Am going to top up with 5.1, let you know how it goes.
Where can it have gone? no leaks showing,
Nick.
Sorted now, but the fluid going low must indicate a leak from somewhere, wil monitor the situation.
just fixed the rod, checked the clutch fluid, well low.
Just had the seals done, what fluid is in there? 5.1 or 5.2?
Can't get through to Jules.
Am going to top up with 5.1, let you know how it goes.
Where can it have gone? no leaks showing,
Nick.
Sorted now, but the fluid going low must indicate a leak from somewhere, wil monitor the situation.
Edited by Nickccc on Thursday 27th July 12:19
Nick, which seals have you had done, master or slave cylinder?
Edited by spartacus on Thursday 27th July 18:59
Nick, did you have the gearbox out and the master and slave seals replaced? trouble is often happens folks have fluid on the clutch pedal, so have the master cylinder seal replaced, which often only results in the slave cylinder going shortly after, i.e.. gearbox out time!
Nickccc said:
Pete, Yes it was the master only, if the gearbox has to come out it will not be going back in. It will be replaced with a six speed sequential from TKO.
So if it is F234213ed it would seem every cloud has a six speed sequential lining.
NIck
So if it is F234213ed it would seem every cloud has a six speed sequential lining.
NIck
Wehey! good man, take it you have already specked & priced up the six speed?
just had all my clutch replaced, was old style, so new bell housing & fly wheel, hence lack of progress on the Nurburgring front.
Have had a light chat regards cost, will be looking about 6k.
Yes a lot of money, but it doesn't look like Nicko is going to give us the Cerb 2 so I will make my own.
Plus, the T5 is not specced anywhere near the Torque rating needed, and it will break eventually.
I guessed the Ring trip had fallen by the wayside, hope you're all sorted now.
Nick.
PS where should I look for leakage? if the other seals have gone will there be fluid escaping from the bellhousing area?
Yes a lot of money, but it doesn't look like Nicko is going to give us the Cerb 2 so I will make my own.
Plus, the T5 is not specced anywhere near the Torque rating needed, and it will break eventually.
I guessed the Ring trip had fallen by the wayside, hope you're all sorted now.
Nick.
PS where should I look for leakage? if the other seals have gone will there be fluid escaping from the bellhousing area?
Am watching this with great interest Nick. I've always wondered what a Cerb would be like to drive with a sequential box - I think it would suit the character of the engine. Car gear boxes always feel a bit slow to use compared to the bike. I'd expect you'd gain quite a bit on the quarter mile too.
Steve.
Steve.
Hello steve,
Yes the 1/4 mile time would be reduced by what? a second maybe. Two changes must be .8-1 second.
Oh, Steve I have found a mini suction mount in my boot, I think it is yours, will let you have it back next time I see you. Maybe next friday at the Ace, that's if I have a running car.
NIck.
Yes the 1/4 mile time would be reduced by what? a second maybe. Two changes must be .8-1 second.
Oh, Steve I have found a mini suction mount in my boot, I think it is yours, will let you have it back next time I see you. Maybe next friday at the Ace, that's if I have a running car.
NIck.
Nickccc said:
Have had a light chat regards cost, will be looking about 6k.
Yes a lot of money, but it doesn't look like Nicko is going to give us the Cerb 2 so I will make my own.
Plus, the T5 is not specced anywhere near the Torque rating needed, and it will break eventually.
I guessed the Ring trip had fallen by the wayside, hope you're all sorted now.
Nick.
PS where should I look for leakage? if the other seals have gone will there be fluid escaping from the bellhousing area?
Yes a lot of money, but it doesn't look like Nicko is going to give us the Cerb 2 so I will make my own.
Plus, the T5 is not specced anywhere near the Torque rating needed, and it will break eventually.
I guessed the Ring trip had fallen by the wayside, hope you're all sorted now.
Nick.
PS where should I look for leakage? if the other seals have gone will there be fluid escaping from the bellhousing area?
I think people usually find fluid reservoir is low but no visible fluid leaking from bell housing, is your fluid dark in colour with fragments of seals?
I think people usually find fluid reservoir is low but no visible fluid leaking from bell housing, is your fluid dark in colour with fragments of seals?
Spoke to Jules a little while ago, as the bell houseing is sealed if the fluid is escaping from there it will probably not be seen.
No there does not seem to be any black stuff in the fluid, I am going to have a look tonight and see if the fluid level has dropped. I wish TVR had put the reservoir in a bit of an easier place to get to.
Nick.
Nickccc said:
I think people usually find fluid reservoir is low but no visible fluid leaking from bell housing, is your fluid dark in colour with fragments of seals?
Spoke to Jules a little while ago, as the bell houseing is sealed if the fluid is escaping from there it will probably not be seen.
No there does not seem to be any black stuff in the fluid, I am going to have a look tonight and see if the fluid level has dropped. I wish TVR had put the reservoir in a bit of an easier place to get to.
Nick.
In my TR6 the slave was outside the bell housing and actuated the thrust bearing via a lever going through a slot in bell housing, so you only have to take the box out if the clutch plates themselves are knackered!
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