Brakes front or back????
Discussion
Well, I have to admit to a blonde moment when I put my rear hubs on the wrong way round and ended up with my rear callipers on the front side of the wheel as oppose to the rear. Anyway, as fitting the handbrake mechanism and the cable was such a pain, I refuse to undo all the hard work and so am leaving them as they are. I have tried to find out exactly what effect the calliper location has on braking but couldn't find much. Also, on all supercars/high performance cars with the front engine rear drive layout, while they all have the front callipers to the rear, its 50/50 where the rear calliper goes so I'm not sure if there is any major effects at all. So why is it some callipers are front and some rear mounted?????? Oh, and my engine went in as at 1:30am and the pics are updated - looks yummy...........
Edited by longbow on Thursday 10th August 18:23
Oh, yeah 
I didn't want to risk slipping a link on the chain when I was putting the front cover on, as it gets a bit annoying if you have to keep removing it after having carefully put a bead of silicone around the joint. Obviously the wire comes out when the cover is on and the tensioner has been set. BTW the knack to tensioning is painfully simple. There was a solid shim inside the body of the tensioning bolt, I just added a small washer until I could 'just lift the chain of the tensioner with a 6" screwdriver' as it says in the manual. The problem I'm having now is that I'm paranoid I've forgotten something - so much work has been done that I'm constantly checking and rechecking. But all I need now is some new oil lines which should be a few days, and then I have to build up the courage to get her fired up 
I didn't want to risk slipping a link on the chain when I was putting the front cover on, as it gets a bit annoying if you have to keep removing it after having carefully put a bead of silicone around the joint. Obviously the wire comes out when the cover is on and the tensioner has been set. BTW the knack to tensioning is painfully simple. There was a solid shim inside the body of the tensioning bolt, I just added a small washer until I could 'just lift the chain of the tensioner with a 6" screwdriver' as it says in the manual. The problem I'm having now is that I'm paranoid I've forgotten something - so much work has been done that I'm constantly checking and rechecking. But all I need now is some new oil lines which should be a few days, and then I have to build up the courage to get her fired up 
longbow said:
But all I need now is some new oil lines which should be a few days, and then I have to build up the courage to get her fired up
You can never do enough checking Longbow
On the last rebuild I did (not on a cerb), I must have spent 2 days checking and re-checking and then re-checking my checks, then thought oh bol*ocks and turned the key. The checking paid off by the way. Are you going to record a video of her first start up, and post it?
Its the same paint used on brake callipers, you get it from Halfrauds. Works best having stripped them down to bare metal and then etch primering them in a light colour - this really brings out the red.
Got the electrics working now (hey - everything works fine!!!!!!) and also set up the throttle pots. Took me a while, but they now read within 1% of each other right from idle (19) to full throttle (94).
Got the electrics working now (hey - everything works fine!!!!!!) and also set up the throttle pots. Took me a while, but they now read within 1% of each other right from idle (19) to full throttle (94).
Edited by longbow on Tuesday 15th August 08:17
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