Cerbera 4.2 fuel pump
Discussion
Hi all,
My car has been off the road for years now and after replacing the coolant and adding new pipes from ACT and a new battery I attempted to start her up.
So I get the engine cranking over nicely but the fuel pump does not prime when I press the black button.
I've checked the fuel pump relay No.4 and that clicks fine and has continuity across the terminals when I apply 12v.
I didn't think it would be the immobiliser as this is meant to cut both starter motor and fuel pump. Also I use the touch fob and the flashing light goes out.
The silver key (master) seems to be fine as the ignition does not come on at all with it off, then comes on when switched on.
I pressed the ignition on and then check to see if there was voltage at the pump, there was not. Should there be 12v to the fuel pump all the time or would it only be a few seconds? If so then maybe by the time I get round to the pump, the volts have dropped off.
Also I have checked the roll over switch, I found the rubber was pushed up but I don't think it was active. I pressed it all back together and no joy either.
Hopefully someone has some other things I can check or bypass to try and diagnose this issue.
Thanks
Alan
My car has been off the road for years now and after replacing the coolant and adding new pipes from ACT and a new battery I attempted to start her up.
So I get the engine cranking over nicely but the fuel pump does not prime when I press the black button.
I've checked the fuel pump relay No.4 and that clicks fine and has continuity across the terminals when I apply 12v.
I didn't think it would be the immobiliser as this is meant to cut both starter motor and fuel pump. Also I use the touch fob and the flashing light goes out.
The silver key (master) seems to be fine as the ignition does not come on at all with it off, then comes on when switched on.
I pressed the ignition on and then check to see if there was voltage at the pump, there was not. Should there be 12v to the fuel pump all the time or would it only be a few seconds? If so then maybe by the time I get round to the pump, the volts have dropped off.
Also I have checked the roll over switch, I found the rubber was pushed up but I don't think it was active. I pressed it all back together and no joy either.
Hopefully someone has some other things I can check or bypass to try and diagnose this issue.
Thanks
Alan
The pump will prime for 2-3 seconds then off until you crank the car, which suggests power to the pump is cut when primed. I’d be inclined to get a multi meter directly on the contacts at the pump whilst getting someone else to turn key and observe the results. If you do get power that suggests pumped failed from lack of use. No power there suggests immobiliser issue but at this point I’d be concentrating on fuel pump before moving on.
Thanks guys, I'll concentrate on the pump and like you say get someone to crank while I check the meter.
Would having constant 12v to the pump not make it run all the time, even when you stop the engine? I suppose it would just recycle back to the tank. I will give it a go to prove if it works 👍🏻
Would having constant 12v to the pump not make it run all the time, even when you stop the engine? I suppose it would just recycle back to the tank. I will give it a go to prove if it works 👍🏻
So I managed to get my wife to crank the engine and I am actually getting voltage to the pump. I was o ly seeing about 6.5v tho.
I'll take the pump off and see if I can get it working.
Does anyone know if this should be12v to the pump or is there meant to be a drop down to 6/7v
Thanks all for your help!
I'll take the pump off and see if I can get it working.
Does anyone know if this should be12v to the pump or is there meant to be a drop down to 6/7v
Thanks all for your help!
Yes should be 12v. Probably an immobiliser issue. Very unusual for the pump to go down.
Run 12V to it to see if it works. The easy fix from there is to run 12v via a switch.
I got stranded a couple of times with immobiliser issues so i ran a separate 12v feed and fitted a switch under the dash. The fuel pump running all the time the ignition is on is how the cerb works anyway. There is no fancy pump control.
Run 12V to it to see if it works. The easy fix from there is to run 12v via a switch.
I got stranded a couple of times with immobiliser issues so i ran a separate 12v feed and fitted a switch under the dash. The fuel pump running all the time the ignition is on is how the cerb works anyway. There is no fancy pump control.
If the fuel in the tank is old, I'd empty it and put fresh fuel in before fitting a new pump.
I had the same problem with mine after it had been stood for a couple of years. Fitted a new pump, but and after it had been left with the old fuel in for a week the new pump was also seized. Modern super unleaded seems to turn nasty if its left for any amount of time, the same fuel also caused float needle valves in SU carbs on a mini to stick shut if left for a a couple of days, even though the car would run fine on it.
Also check the pipe from tank to pump as mine was turning to mush.
I had the same problem with mine after it had been stood for a couple of years. Fitted a new pump, but and after it had been left with the old fuel in for a week the new pump was also seized. Modern super unleaded seems to turn nasty if its left for any amount of time, the same fuel also caused float needle valves in SU carbs on a mini to stick shut if left for a a couple of days, even though the car would run fine on it.
Also check the pipe from tank to pump as mine was turning to mush.
She is running!
So I took all your guys advice and found the supply hose was so bad that it stuck together when I clamped it. I can't believe that tvr would just fill the cavity to the tank with sealant rather than make some cover or rubber grommet.
New hose, new pump, fresh fuel and it's ticking over nicely!
No issues with the voltage either! Woop
Thanks again folks!
So I took all your guys advice and found the supply hose was so bad that it stuck together when I clamped it. I can't believe that tvr would just fill the cavity to the tank with sealant rather than make some cover or rubber grommet.
New hose, new pump, fresh fuel and it's ticking over nicely!
No issues with the voltage either! Woop
Thanks again folks!
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