Discussion
I need to replace the discs and pads all round in my 4.5. The front discs are still the original two piece style.
am wondering what the alternatives and costs are? Anyone an expert on this?
I think the options are, financially:-
a) Go for the latest style from the tuscan S. Pro = cheapest option. Downer = cross drilled can crack. Cost?
b) Get TVR original Parts = £400 each at the front plus £150 each at the rear = £1300 ish for brakes.
c) Joospeed = £735 for new, upgraded, front discs, pads , rear pads and new fluid. So plus rear discs = £1100 ish.
d) Castle sport front AP vented/slotted rotors, pads and hoses = £656 PLUS rear so total of about £1K.
Any views on above accuracy and options?
Gary
am wondering what the alternatives and costs are? Anyone an expert on this?
I think the options are, financially:-
a) Go for the latest style from the tuscan S. Pro = cheapest option. Downer = cross drilled can crack. Cost?
b) Get TVR original Parts = £400 each at the front plus £150 each at the rear = £1300 ish for brakes.
c) Joospeed = £735 for new, upgraded, front discs, pads , rear pads and new fluid. So plus rear discs = £1100 ish.
d) Castle sport front AP vented/slotted rotors, pads and hoses = £656 PLUS rear so total of about £1K.
Any views on above accuracy and options?
Gary
IMO : Tuscan Disks look the best, so are the obvious choice, and I've not heard any stories of them cracking (anyone got them that does track days that can veryfy this).
However, if you've been considering an upgrade, then now is the best time to upgrade (Jools/Castlesport) as it means your not spending extra money. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it - if it's worn out, then it's got to be replaced !"...
However, if you've been considering an upgrade, then now is the best time to upgrade (Jools/Castlesport) as it means your not spending extra money. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it - if it's worn out, then it's got to be replaced !"...
there's absolutely no point going for the std TVR kit when you can get an upgrade for less money! it's another one of those cases where the std kit is rather poor, but an upgrade is cheaper .. doh! Castleports kit looks great and is spot-on price wise, but doesn't include fitting from what I can see. If you go to castlesport (heard good things about them) get them to base it on the cp3580 disc rather than the cp5000 disc .. same price but higher spec! 

Took my 4.5 to the dealers last Monday with brake judder. They rang me to say two new discs and pads (when the pads were removed the brake material fell of the backing plate)
Cost £1,000 which I could not afford so I asked them about alternatives and they got them skimmed and fitted with new pads and cost £425.
Silly question but why upgrade, I find the STD brakes fine....
Cost £1,000 which I could not afford so I asked them about alternatives and they got them skimmed and fitted with new pads and cost £425.
Silly question but why upgrade, I find the STD brakes fine....
sportie said:
Took my 4.5 to the dealers last Monday with brake judder. They rang me to say two new discs and pads (when the pads were removed the brake material fell of the backing plate)
Cost £1,000 which I could not afford so I asked them about alternatives and they got them skimmed and fitted with new pads and cost £425.
Silly question but why upgrade, I find the STD brakes fine....
If they're fine, why did you go into your dealer with judder?
The std brakes are fine as long as you don't give them any hard use, if you like to drive quickly or do more than 4 track days a year then you'll be looking for an upgrade, if you do drive 4 track days a year or more and don't need an upgrade DRIVE FASTER!!!!!
Incidently, now you've skimmed your brakes they're less able to withstand any excess heat you give them, they'll judder again shortly and you'll wish you'd had them changed, it's the best way of making an 1100 pound upgrade cost 1600 pounds unfortunately. Skimming is really for those people who can't afford anything else, or are looking to sell their car and want it ok for the test drives at little cost. I have to admit to doing alot of disc skimming, some people just think it's the best option cost/value etc.
Out of interest what is the difference between the standard 4.5 brakes, and the Red Rose?
The reason being I've just been on the TVR Gear website and found the following:-
Cerbera 4.5 Brake Disc - Front - 322mm TVR official part. £121.34
Cerbera 4.5 Brake Disc - Front LH RR TVR official part. £420.65
Now, before someone else states the obvious - I know about £300 per disc.
Neil.
The reason being I've just been on the TVR Gear website and found the following:-
Cerbera 4.5 Brake Disc - Front - 322mm TVR official part. £121.34
Cerbera 4.5 Brake Disc - Front LH RR TVR official part. £420.65
Now, before someone else states the obvious - I know about £300 per disc.
Neil.
gazzab - If that's the case I was robbed. My RR came with single piece, cross drilled disks that weren't even handed!! Same as on the Tuscan S apprently. No idea why there is a price difference. And no way am I paying for the factory crap again when I can get a pair of proper handed AP Racing disks for half the money!
Washy
Washy
I'm replacing my front discs 322mm with the upgraded ones from Joospeed 330mm and have run into a few little fitting problems.
Bigger disc means caliper adjustment so you need to put washers on the bolts that connects that caliper to the main block mount. Making sure both sides (i.e. washers etc) are exactly alike otherwise your going to get some uneven braking. The bolts on mine where not long enough to accommodate the extra washers.
I'm wondering if a larger replacement block mount for the existing calipers would be a better solution ??
The next problem seems to be my old discs (standard TVR issue) are 3mm fatter than the new ones. So the new discs increase the distance from disc to the pads. That means more brake pedal travel before actual braking. I think the goal is to reduce the travel ??? Otherwise when the pads wear down the piston's will travel out further than they normally do and run the risk of twisting and locking solid. A possible saftey issue ? I'm having some shims added behind the pads to solve this one.
I wonder if anyone else has had these problems when fitting to 4.5 ??
>> Edited by AndyTather on Tuesday 12th August 22:09
Bigger disc means caliper adjustment so you need to put washers on the bolts that connects that caliper to the main block mount. Making sure both sides (i.e. washers etc) are exactly alike otherwise your going to get some uneven braking. The bolts on mine where not long enough to accommodate the extra washers.
I'm wondering if a larger replacement block mount for the existing calipers would be a better solution ??
The next problem seems to be my old discs (standard TVR issue) are 3mm fatter than the new ones. So the new discs increase the distance from disc to the pads. That means more brake pedal travel before actual braking. I think the goal is to reduce the travel ??? Otherwise when the pads wear down the piston's will travel out further than they normally do and run the risk of twisting and locking solid. A possible saftey issue ? I'm having some shims added behind the pads to solve this one.
I wonder if anyone else has had these problems when fitting to 4.5 ??
>> Edited by AndyTather on Tuesday 12th August 22:09
What did you decide in the end? Can't persuade you to go for the ultimate braking conversion which was once fitted to your car?
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=9155&sc=QUTR&s=6
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=9155&sc=QUTR&s=6
dannylt said:
What did you decide in the end? Can't persuade you to go for the ultimate braking conversion which was once fitted to your car? ![]()
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=9155&sc=QUTR&s=6
Havent decided anything yet !!!
Thanks for the kind offer though Danny! Havent got the funds!!!
dannylt said:
Sure, assuming you can get 18 inch wheels on a Smart
Only on the back. Somehow replacing drums with 8 pot brembos at the back might make the car a little interesting. Then again if it had that kind of stopping power at the front it would flip over everytime I dabbed the brakes
. Maybe when I build the TrackSmart...
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