Does your temp gauge over-read??
Discussion
I've read a lot on PH about cerb temperature gauges over-reading, and think I may have found a reason!!!
Mine has always read between 100-105 before the fan/s cut in, and they should cut in at 92 and 95, however, after plugging in to the laptop, found that all was well, and the crap capillary gauge was over by nearly 10 degrees....
Changing the anti-freeze today and having a good look round I found that the capillary tube was tie wrapped to the O/S heater pipe!!!!
Having carefully moved the tube so that it now runs adjacent to the battery, and along the rear of the engine bay, away from any other heat sources.
The result.....fans cut in and 92 and 95 as before, but however the gauge in the car reads 95,.....and no more:- is it?, isn't it? overheating moments.
.
>>> Edited by crazycats on Wednesday 17th December 20:50
Mine has always read between 100-105 before the fan/s cut in, and they should cut in at 92 and 95, however, after plugging in to the laptop, found that all was well, and the crap capillary gauge was over by nearly 10 degrees....
Changing the anti-freeze today and having a good look round I found that the capillary tube was tie wrapped to the O/S heater pipe!!!!
Having carefully moved the tube so that it now runs adjacent to the battery, and along the rear of the engine bay, away from any other heat sources.
The result.....fans cut in and 92 and 95 as before, but however the gauge in the car reads 95,.....and no more:- is it?, isn't it? overheating moments.
.
>>> Edited by crazycats on Wednesday 17th December 20:50
For the past approx 10,000 miles my gauge never went over a hundred but now she's due her big service it reads over that mark then flickers alot then drops back down to a sedate 90 odd! Not sure if it's related
She acts fine though and doesn't cause any problems even though the first time I saw her hit well over the hundred mark I crapped myself and turned her off at a set of lights on a busy high street
She acts fine though and doesn't cause any problems even though the first time I saw her hit well over the hundred mark I crapped myself and turned her off at a set of lights on a busy high street
We've all been there BigT.
I think the flickering gauge is most likely air locks in the cooling system (even though it is supposed to be largely self-bleeding). Bleeding the system is not difficult but may have to repeated a few times to get rid of all the air.
The other alternative is a knackered gauge which is a lot more expensive to fix.
I think the flickering gauge is most likely air locks in the cooling system (even though it is supposed to be largely self-bleeding). Bleeding the system is not difficult but may have to repeated a few times to get rid of all the air.
The other alternative is a knackered gauge which is a lot more expensive to fix.
The capillary starts in the water pipe under the front engine cover and comes back in a fairly convoluted way. Same pipe that holds the engine temp sensor. Also check those pipes as they corrode and easily pinhole or split. Take it off and all will be revealed. On mine it has been tied to the chassis and goes down the driver's side and into the cabin. Be very careful with it as it is fragile. Break it and it is £150 for a replacement guage. Been there done that now got a very handy spare external pressure gauage... 
I checked mine with a IR thermometer and it was spot on. Generally the mechanical guages are better than the electronic ones that TVR used to use.
Steve
>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 18th December 09:23
I checked mine with a IR thermometer and it was spot on. Generally the mechanical guages are better than the electronic ones that TVR used to use.
Steve
>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 18th December 09:23
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