Permatex assembly lube
Discussion
I just started doing my final engine assembly of my Rover V8 build to go in a TVR. I trial built it in the summer, all fine, clearances checked out, turned over nicely. Went away for balancing (the shop had it 3 months).
I put the crank back in this weekend, and it is stiff to turn over. I used Permatex Assembly lube. If I break the initial friction, I can only just turn it over on the snout with my wrist. Apart from being stiff, it is smooth with no tight spots.
I'm fairly certain it is because the lube is extremely viscous and tacky in the cold. Where it has dribbled out, it is like runs in tacky paint, it is so sticky. I stuck an electric heater under it for a few hours at the weekend, and that did seem to free it up a bit, though I don't think it raised the temperature in my garage significantly. My smallest torque wrench goes down to 19NM, and that does overcome the static friction and turn it.
Does anyone else have experience of this assembly lube and observed the same in the cold, before I strip it back down to recheck things and try with ordinary oil?
I put the crank back in this weekend, and it is stiff to turn over. I used Permatex Assembly lube. If I break the initial friction, I can only just turn it over on the snout with my wrist. Apart from being stiff, it is smooth with no tight spots.
I'm fairly certain it is because the lube is extremely viscous and tacky in the cold. Where it has dribbled out, it is like runs in tacky paint, it is so sticky. I stuck an electric heater under it for a few hours at the weekend, and that did seem to free it up a bit, though I don't think it raised the temperature in my garage significantly. My smallest torque wrench goes down to 19NM, and that does overcome the static friction and turn it.
Does anyone else have experience of this assembly lube and observed the same in the cold, before I strip it back down to recheck things and try with ordinary oil?
Are you saying the crank only, and nothing else ? and it's tight to turn ?
A crank torqued into a bare block, correct bearings etc etc, you should easily be able to turn it by hand. No tools.
I had a 4.6 RV8 block once that literally needed a 2ft bar to turn when torqued up with a new crank, the block itself was buckled stupid somehow. ( it also had a split liner )
That wasn't a great 2nd hand purchase to build with lol.
eg
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RutqkfLYQog
A crank torqued into a bare block, correct bearings etc etc, you should easily be able to turn it by hand. No tools.
I had a 4.6 RV8 block once that literally needed a 2ft bar to turn when torqued up with a new crank, the block itself was buckled stupid somehow. ( it also had a split liner )
That wasn't a great 2nd hand purchase to build with lol.
eg
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RutqkfLYQog
stevieturbo said:
Didn't mix up the bottle with some gorilla glue ?
No, but the Permatex certainly feels like glue in the cold.I managed to get the block warmed up slightly with a heater and a cover over it, and let it bake all evening. That has loosened it up. I can spin the crank easily on the snout now holding it like a screwdriver. Not as free as in the video you linked, but nice and smooth. Free spins maybe 1/8th turn when I yank on a counterweight to spin it quickly.
Obviously just the very viscous lube in the cold, and perhaps the clearances were a little on the tight side of the tolerance when I measured them back in the summer, but happy with it now.
Thanks for the advice all.
PhysDoc said:
No, but the Permatex certainly feels like glue in the cold.I managed to get the block warmed up slightly with a heater and a cover over it, and let it bake all evening. That has loosened it up. I can spin the crank easily on the snout now holding it like a screwdriver. Not as free as in the video you linked, but nice and smooth. Free spins maybe 1/8th turn when I yank on a counterweight to spin it quickly.
Obviously just the very viscous lube in the cold, and perhaps the clearances were a little on the tight side of the tolerance when I measured them back in the summer, but happy with it now.
Thanks for the advice all.
Its why checks are done with light oil, and only final build with assembly lube. Glad it all seems ok, remember its only really broke when bits come out the exhaust lol
Had the same issue with my RV8 was fine crank dummy built with oil soon as I used goopy Clevite bearing guard rotation was harder using my hand on the crank assy cam sprocket alone this was at an early part of the year I might add not warm , once initial rotation started/broke stickyness it was easier but still resistance there
A bit late to the party so to speak but the original (knackered) Rover V8 in my Land Rover turned over really easily, even by hand on the crankshaft pulley.
I took it for a rebuild at a well-respected specialist who told me that it was way too loose (there was also very little to no compression).
A deal was done for a new, reconditioned engine from them which I have since installed in the Land Rover and it is tight to turn, certainly can't do it from the pulley by hand but it turns OK using a socket wrench on the crankshaft.
In short I think, it's supposed to be tight but will no doubt loosen a little once running.
I took it for a rebuild at a well-respected specialist who told me that it was way too loose (there was also very little to no compression).
A deal was done for a new, reconditioned engine from them which I have since installed in the Land Rover and it is tight to turn, certainly can't do it from the pulley by hand but it turns OK using a socket wrench on the crankshaft.
In short I think, it's supposed to be tight but will no doubt loosen a little once running.
stevieturbo said:
catso said:
In short I think, it's supposed to be tight but will no doubt loosen a little once running.
No, a crank torqued into in a bare block should absolutely not be tight.Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff