Difficulty selecting 1st and reverse
Discussion
Ever since I had my Honda Ive had issues selecting 1st and reverse. Sometimes I would pull up to some lights and with clutch down I cant enter 1st gear. Its like something is blocking its path. I then need to let the clutch up and press it again then it is fine. Same thing with reverse but I would say not as frequent but it still happens.
With the engine off I can row through all the gears fine. But with engine on and stationery the experience is not the same. Most of the gears don't go in cleanly. I also have a weird problem when shifting from 1st to neutral when the car is moving. The gearstick feels like it isn't releasing cleanly, almost like I am trying to changed gear before the clutch is fully down. Almost like a popping out sensation.
Since Ive had the car I have change the following. Changed gearbox oil thrice, added shifter bushings, added solid engine mounts, had the clutch changed (release bearing, clutch disk, pressure plate) (1 month ago), bleed the clutch about 3x, changed the slave cylinder (1 week ago). Unfortunately none of this has helped.
Another thing Ive noticed is that ever since the clutch was changed the 1st and reverse problem has become more frequent. I am thinking there is an issue with my clutch master cylinder, perhaps an internal leak. Maybe the new pressure plate is placing more force on my old master cylinder and perhaps the clutch is struggling even more to dis engage.
Am I barking up the wrong tree or should I be focusing my attention on another area?
Thanks
With the engine off I can row through all the gears fine. But with engine on and stationery the experience is not the same. Most of the gears don't go in cleanly. I also have a weird problem when shifting from 1st to neutral when the car is moving. The gearstick feels like it isn't releasing cleanly, almost like I am trying to changed gear before the clutch is fully down. Almost like a popping out sensation.
Since Ive had the car I have change the following. Changed gearbox oil thrice, added shifter bushings, added solid engine mounts, had the clutch changed (release bearing, clutch disk, pressure plate) (1 month ago), bleed the clutch about 3x, changed the slave cylinder (1 week ago). Unfortunately none of this has helped.
Another thing Ive noticed is that ever since the clutch was changed the 1st and reverse problem has become more frequent. I am thinking there is an issue with my clutch master cylinder, perhaps an internal leak. Maybe the new pressure plate is placing more force on my old master cylinder and perhaps the clutch is struggling even more to dis engage.
Am I barking up the wrong tree or should I be focusing my attention on another area?
Thanks
Sounds like the clutch is dragging, seeing as you've replaced everything else either the master cylinder is faulty or the spacing/release geometry isn't correct, perhaps due to wrong (or less likely heavily distorted) flywheel or bent release fork
Also if you've fully drained the system at some point the master cylinders can be a ball ache to get all the air out, sometimes it's easier to bleed off the car.
Also if you've fully drained the system at some point the master cylinders can be a ball ache to get all the air out, sometimes it's easier to bleed off the car.
Before changing the clutch and slave around 10 months ago, one day I was driving back from work and the clutch pedal felt really soft but was still functioning (no fluid loss). All on its own it returned back to the normal sensation the next day. Its hard to tell if the biting point is changing. But Ive noticed that my gear changes sometimes aren't the smoothest, maybe this could be due to the bite point changing ever so slightly.
stevieturbo said:
Does the clutch engage and disengage at a normal place on the pedal movement ?
I really hope I don't need to get the gearbox dropped again! I don't think the hydraulics were ever completely drained. When I installed the slave I managed to get pressure back into the pedal relatively quickly. I even blocked the slave piston to ensure all air was squeezed out.The Wookie said:
Sounds like the clutch is dragging, seeing as you've replaced everything else either the master cylinder is faulty or the spacing/release geometry isn't correct, perhaps due to wrong (or less likely heavily distorted) flywheel or bent release fork
Also if you've fully drained the system at some point the master cylinders can be a ball ache to get all the air out, sometimes it's easier to bleed off the car.
Also if you've fully drained the system at some point the master cylinders can be a ball ache to get all the air out, sometimes it's easier to bleed off the car.
I would say the engagement point is about 2 inches off the floor. Same as the old clutch. Weird thing is sometimes the gear changes can be fine other times quite bad. Also this morning before work I had a play. With engine off I rowed through the different gears without using the clutch. It didn't feel smooth. Then I tried with the clutch pedal, smooth like butter. Lastly I tried with engine running but stationary and the changes were again not smooth.
stevieturbo said:
I didnt ask if it was changing, although that would be relevant too.
I asked if engagement point is normal.
Does it bite near the top, bottom, middle ?
I asked if engagement point is normal.
Does it bite near the top, bottom, middle ?
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