New valve stem seals RV8?

[caduceus]

I am going to rebuild the top of my 4.5 (4.6) Rover V8 today and need to start with the valve stem seals. I've not fitted new ones before, so I am wondering if there is a particular method on popping the new ones on?
Or is it a case of a smear of oil on the metal base in the head, and tapping them on?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks
Cad

[caduceus]

These are said valve stem seals, that were part of a gasket set. They look like they'll just push/tap on... Are they?

[227bhp]

No oil needed, just tap them on with something which sits on the metal shoulder - piece of tube or a small socket. If you have two different colours make sure they go on right way round 50/50 in and ex.

[caduceus]

Tried that.
It took many blows with a dead blow hammer to get the sod on. By which point it was spent. So I might as well wreck the rest practising, and buy 16 more on Monday

[imagineifyeswill]

Thats very odd, valve stem oil seals usually fit on with just a light tap.

[KiaDiseasel]

Oh jeepers. You absolutely need to oil them inside first - liberally. That alone reduces fitting forces by up to 90%. Are the valves still in the head or not? If not and you're just trying to get the seals onto the valve guides then do this. Find a socket that the top of the seal (just the rubber bit with the spring) just fits into and grips it a tad and then the rim of the socket should bear nicely on the metal collar round the seal. Fit a 6 inch extension to the socket and then wiggle and push the seal into place. Do NOT start off by banging away at it!!!! Once it's seated you can give a very light tap to make sure it's fully down but I mean very light!

If the valves are still in place i.e. head still on engine then you need to slide the seal down the stem and use a piece of tube but it's a damn site easier with the valves out.

[caduceus]

KiaDiseasel said:

Oh jeepers. You absolutely need to oil them inside first - liberally. That alone reduces fitting forces by up to 90%. Are the valves still in the head or not? If not and you're just trying to get the seals onto the valve guides then do this. Find a socket that the top of the seal (just the rubber bit with the spring) just fits into and grips it a tad and then the rim of the socket should bear nicely on the metal collar round the seal. Fit a 6 inch extension to the socket and then wiggle and push the seal into place. Do NOT start off by banging away at it!!!! Once it's seated you can give a very light tap to make sure it's fully down but I mean very light!

If the valves are still in place i.e. head still on engine then you need to slide the seal down the stem and use a piece of tube but it's a damn site easier with the valves out.

No, the head is off the block and completely bare.
The socket I did use did grip the rubber quite snugly and sat on top of the outer metal collar. But on inspection after hitting it almost home, the rubber looked like it had been hit/pinched against the outer metal shell/collar and damaged it. But maybe that was down to the amount of banging needed to get it down the shaft. And yes, it wasn't going on straight all the time. Almost shimmying down with varying amounts of multi angled blows

Will try again this morning. Up at the mo taking pain killers for this sodding shoulder pain
Thanks for the tips KD. Much appreciated

[227bhp]

If you have to use a hammer use a small metal one, that's part of the reason you've failed, also flailing around at different angles and not getting it square on. With a dead blow there is no accuracy, nor does it speak to the senses (mainly the ears) which is important.
I've never used lube and they've gone on fine, but it makes sense to do so if they're tight of course.

Edited by 227bhp on Sunday 9th October 10:02

[caduceus]

227bhp said:

If you have to use a hammer use a metal one, that's part of the reason you've failed, also flailing around at different angles and not getting it square on.
I've never used lube and they've gone on fine, but it makes sense to do so if they're tight of course.

Yes, someone else has just informed me they go on dry, or with brake cleaner. And the fact I didn't get it going on square didn't help huh, as you say.

[227bhp]

caduceus said:

227bhp said:

If you have to use a hammer use a metal one, that's part of the reason you've failed, also flailing around at different angles and not getting it square on.
I've never used lube and they've gone on fine, but it makes sense to do so if they're tight of course.

Yes, someone else has just informed me they go on dry, or with brake cleaner. And the fact I didn't get it going on square didn't help huh, as you say.

Although it's probably ok, be careful with strong solvents and flexible seals.
To expand on what I said earlier when using a small metal hammer, (and socket with 6" ext bar as Pu, sorry KD says) you tap lightly and listen, it goes like this:

Ding
Ding
Ding
Ding
Thud.

When you hear the change in tone you stop, job is done. A deadblow is a bit of a dumb tool in comparison.

[caduceus]

All done. Although there does appear to be some cracking where the rubber meets the metal collar/shell. Whether this is a result of me doing something wrong, or just a normal result fitting them, I don't know. Hopefully someone will say "yes, that's normal..."







Look ok? Or fooked? :/