Dry sump design/build
Discussion
I'm involved with an engine project that involves high Gs and we also want to lower the power unit for a better C of G, this will mean a dry sump system. Does anyone know anyone in the UK who would help in designing and making such a system? The engine isn't something I can get this kind of thing off-the-shelf for.
I seem to remember there is some guy who exhibits at Autosport, but can't remember his company name. The list of exhibitors runs to nearly 400, so it's going to take a lot of trawling through or me going down there to see if he's there!
I seem to remember there is some guy who exhibits at Autosport, but can't remember his company name. The list of exhibitors runs to nearly 400, so it's going to take a lot of trawling through or me going down there to see if he's there!
Megaflow said:
I think it will be mine too 
Thanks.
The pump is pretty easy to source.
The sump design really depends on how you want the system to operate, and if you are really going to go to town with it. ie, if it is just for oil control, your sump can be simple, but to get the best possible engine performance you need to seperate each cylinder into it's own "bay" to reduce windage, and design the system to operate at a lower than ambient pressure. This will take a multi rotor scavange pump, and may require specific mods/machining to the block, with a custom CNC'd sump pan. You will also need, at least a decent estimate of oil flow and blow by volume to be able to size your pump and estimate the requisite drive ratio.
Tank volume will depend where it ends up, but most people make the mistake of using a very remote tank, which requires long, lossy pipework, and means a large tank volume is required.
The engine in my track car was not of a "bedplate" design, so i modified it to be so, and that mean't a custom sump etc:
Cross cylinder windage is prevented by specific block machining and billet main bearing caps
The tank is local to the engine:
And heavily heat shielded due to the exhaust / turbo location:
You may also find that a "Low" engine forces you to use a small diameter and expensive multiplate clutch to make use of the low profile sump! IN my case the flywheel actually sits behind the front subframe cross members, which the actual sump misses by around 5mm (solid mounted engine) and using a 140mm carbon clutch means the engine can be as low as possible.
The sump design really depends on how you want the system to operate, and if you are really going to go to town with it. ie, if it is just for oil control, your sump can be simple, but to get the best possible engine performance you need to seperate each cylinder into it's own "bay" to reduce windage, and design the system to operate at a lower than ambient pressure. This will take a multi rotor scavange pump, and may require specific mods/machining to the block, with a custom CNC'd sump pan. You will also need, at least a decent estimate of oil flow and blow by volume to be able to size your pump and estimate the requisite drive ratio.
Tank volume will depend where it ends up, but most people make the mistake of using a very remote tank, which requires long, lossy pipework, and means a large tank volume is required.
The engine in my track car was not of a "bedplate" design, so i modified it to be so, and that mean't a custom sump etc:
Cross cylinder windage is prevented by specific block machining and billet main bearing caps
The tank is local to the engine:
And heavily heat shielded due to the exhaust / turbo location:
You may also find that a "Low" engine forces you to use a small diameter and expensive multiplate clutch to make use of the low profile sump! IN my case the flywheel actually sits behind the front subframe cross members, which the actual sump misses by around 5mm (solid mounted engine) and using a 140mm carbon clutch means the engine can be as low as possible.
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