2020 polo gti intermittent start
Discussion
Hi all,
Looking for some advice on an issue with my 2020 VW Polo GTI.
Occasionally it won’t start – dash lights come on fine but there’s no crank, just a single click. Other times it starts completely normally.
The battery has been replaced and fully charged, and I’ve also replaced the batteries in both key fobs. I had the starter checked by an independent starter motor specialist, and they said the starter itself tested fine.
So currently:
• Dash lights OK
• Battery replaced and charged
• Starter checked and reportedly fine
• Intermittent single click, no crank
Has anyone experienced this or have any ideas what to check next?
Looking for some advice on an issue with my 2020 VW Polo GTI.
Occasionally it won’t start – dash lights come on fine but there’s no crank, just a single click. Other times it starts completely normally.
The battery has been replaced and fully charged, and I’ve also replaced the batteries in both key fobs. I had the starter checked by an independent starter motor specialist, and they said the starter itself tested fine.
So currently:
• Dash lights OK
• Battery replaced and charged
• Starter checked and reportedly fine
• Intermittent single click, no crank
Has anyone experienced this or have any ideas what to check next?
sc0tt said:
Hi all,
I had the starter checked by an independent starter motor specialist, and they said the starter itself tested fine.
But occasionally it may not be fine.I had the starter checked by an independent starter motor specialist, and they said the starter itself tested fine.
Really you need to diagnose the car during a non start event.
Check the starter solenoid is getting 12v during attempt to crank. If it is and it is not cranking....then it is likely then starter.
Thanks for your suggestions all.
Dashboard lights all ok at all times.
Brake lights work fine on non starting event so not the switch.
Guessing next port of call will be to purchase a multimeter and work out how to use one.
I have purchased 2 relays on the off chance its an intermittent relay issue.
Dashboard lights all ok at all times.
Brake lights work fine on non starting event so not the switch.
Guessing next port of call will be to purchase a multimeter and work out how to use one.
I have purchased 2 relays on the off chance its an intermittent relay issue.
Get it to someone willing to keep it for a bit and log in on start up. Failing that's it's going to be a bit of a parts cannon. Could be a relay, could still be the starter motor, could be a dodgy earth, could be lots of things. How old is that battery?, although that would usually cause a more persistent problem.
thebraketester said:
Get it to someone willing to keep it for a bit and log in on start up. Failing that's it's going to be a bit of a parts cannon. Could be a relay, could still be the starter motor, could be a dodgy earth, could be lots of things. How old is that battery?, although that would usually cause a more persistent problem.
6 years old, as suggested it had a brand new battery put on it and still didn’t start.I believe there was a low voltage error to starter code which was logged hence the starter being sent off for strip down.
If you are getting low voltage at starter errors it is unlikely to be the starter.
As you have said, you need a multimeter to go much further.
When you get one test (exact) voltage at the battery, if it is anything other than around 12.5 v the first job is to get it fully charger overnight, when it should read over 12.6 v. This should be tested after turning the key on 1 position (do not start the engine) & putting the headlights on for a minute. If you don't get this then the battery is a likely candidate.
Then you need to wait for a non-start event, but be ready with a pair of jump leads & check that you know exactly where the starter is & (hopefully) have access to the starter connections. Then what you need to do is to use the black jump start lead & connect it from the batter - to the engine and use the red to go from the battery + to the big red connector on the starter. Doing this will completely by-pass the vehicle wiring to rule it all out at once.
Obviously if that works you are looking for a wiring issue as per the first reply.
If it doesn't then we are looking elsewhere.
As you have said, you need a multimeter to go much further.
When you get one test (exact) voltage at the battery, if it is anything other than around 12.5 v the first job is to get it fully charger overnight, when it should read over 12.6 v. This should be tested after turning the key on 1 position (do not start the engine) & putting the headlights on for a minute. If you don't get this then the battery is a likely candidate.
Then you need to wait for a non-start event, but be ready with a pair of jump leads & check that you know exactly where the starter is & (hopefully) have access to the starter connections. Then what you need to do is to use the black jump start lead & connect it from the batter - to the engine and use the red to go from the battery + to the big red connector on the starter. Doing this will completely by-pass the vehicle wiring to rule it all out at once.
Obviously if that works you are looking for a wiring issue as per the first reply.
If it doesn't then we are looking elsewhere.
sc0tt said:
6 years old, as suggested it had a brand new battery put on it and still didn t start.
I believe there was a low voltage error to starter code which was logged hence the starter being sent off for strip down.
As well as getting a multimeter, you also need toI believe there was a low voltage error to starter code which was logged hence the starter being sent off for strip down.
1) Know what code is being logged
2) Look up the code setting criteria - in other words, know what the code means
3) Have a wiring diagram for the car
The good thing is, because its actually logged a code it gives you a head start in narrowing down the issue, rather than waiting for an intermittent fault to recur.
thebraketester said:
Get it to someone willing to keep it for a bit and log in on start up. Failing that's it's going to be a bit of a parts cannon. Could be a relay, could still be the starter motor, could be a dodgy earth, could be lots of things. How old is that battery?, although that would usually cause a more persistent problem.
Absolutely zero reason to fire the parts cannon for something so simple to test and diagnose.....as long as he does it when the no-start is occurring.Nothing to diagnose if it is starting.
paul_c123 said:
sc0tt said:
6 years old, as suggested it had a brand new battery put on it and still didn t start.
I believe there was a low voltage error to starter code which was logged hence the starter being sent off for strip down.
As well as getting a multimeter, you also need toI believe there was a low voltage error to starter code which was logged hence the starter being sent off for strip down.
1) Know what code is being logged
2) Look up the code setting criteria - in other words, know what the code means
3) Have a wiring diagram for the car
The good thing is, because its actually logged a code it gives you a head start in narrowing down the issue, rather than waiting for an intermittent fault to recur.
stevieturbo said:
thebraketester said:
Get it to someone willing to keep it for a bit and log in on start up. Failing that's it's going to be a bit of a parts cannon. Could be a relay, could still be the starter motor, could be a dodgy earth, could be lots of things. How old is that battery?, although that would usually cause a more persistent problem.
Absolutely zero reason to fire the parts cannon for something so simple to test and diagnose.....as long as he does it when the no-start is occurring.Nothing to diagnose if it is starting.
There is never a reason to fire the parts cannon except laziness in diagnosis.
sc0tt said:
I ll keep an eye on it over the weekend with the new relays in place and order a multimeter in the meantime time.
You don't have to pay a lot for one to get one that will be very useful occasionally.On top of the good ones I have, I keep one of these in the motorhome just in case.
Cheap enough & there is a manual range type or auto range type depending on preference.
Both also have a handy "analogue" scale under the readout, which can be helpful to see when readings are changing.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Proster-Multimeter-Contin...
Of course you can't beat a Fluke, but then even the most basic one is a lot more expensive, and not necessarily any better for the occasional user.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fluke-FLUKE-15B-ESP-Multi...
Edited by E-bmw on Thursday 12th March 14:53
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