speedo/revcounter
Discussion
My 1999 HSV does this but only when the outside temperature is hot (so not that often!). It will do this for a few miles (and annoyingly trigger the 'over-speed' warning beeper) and then stop. I had an auto electrician pull the whole thing apart, i.e. dashboard out etc but he could not find a fault. If anyone does find the reason I would be very interested.
"HSV2" on your car if it is JUST the speedo jumping about it is a different problem to the Monaro boys....
Yours is due to a bad solder joint on the speed converter, which was fitted to VT11 cars when they came into the country.
The fix is to remove the dash and find the heat shrunk converter board, peel off the wrap and find the dodgy joint.
Yours is due to a bad solder joint on the speed converter, which was fitted to VT11 cars when they came into the country.
The fix is to remove the dash and find the heat shrunk converter board, peel off the wrap and find the dodgy joint.
I allso have experienced some problems, the speedo acting like a rev counter, this only happened once with under 100 miles on the clock, just restarted the car and all has been fine, told the garage "the fault is under investigation" was the reply.
>> Edited by P7VXR on Wednesday 13th July 17:54
>> Edited by P7VXR on Wednesday 13th July 17:54
HSV2 I had the same problem with my VT, ukhsv posted the correct diagnosis, a nuisance as every time the dash comes off it never fits quite as well.
The speedo on my VX now widly over reads, not too bad upto 40mph but reads 100mph @ a true 84mph! I guess it is also a problem with the converter board, anyone else had a similar experience?
I rely on a R/Angel 2 as my speedo, so I'm not too bothered, but it would be nice to fix it, if & when the dash next comes out. I would guess it's easier to replace the whole board?
The speedo on my VX now widly over reads, not too bad upto 40mph but reads 100mph @ a true 84mph! I guess it is also a problem with the converter board, anyone else had a similar experience?
I rely on a R/Angel 2 as my speedo, so I'm not too bothered, but it would be nice to fix it, if & when the dash next comes out. I would guess it's easier to replace the whole board?
[quote]The speedo on my VX now widly over reads, not too bad upto 40mph but reads 100mph @ a true 84mph![/quote]
That means your cars mileage is reading higher than it really is................
A call to www.protech-uk.co.uk/ (who are down your way I think) could sort your problem
That means your cars mileage is reading higher than it really is................
A call to www.protech-uk.co.uk/ (who are down your way I think) could sort your problem
Sincere apologies for hijacking your thread bells_V8 but to answer HSV2 & A57_HSV's questions and to add pictures to uk_hsv's response.....
I also had the same problem just days after purchasing the car only mine failed completely. I was reading 0mph where ever I went. Some kind people on this forum told me it was the speed convertor board which sits (usually) behind the odometer dials. And they were right (like I doubted them). I photographed the procedure in case it was useful to anyone one day. That day has arrived....
Step #1 - Disconnect the battery. You don't want to accidentally disturb the air bag system and set it off. Possibly not necessary but better to be safe than sorry.
Step #2 - Removing the dash facia
Carefully remove the dash facia and disconnect the cables. I managed to do it without de-installing the centre console (CD holder & arm rest part of the car) but it's up to you whether you do it or not.
You should end up with something like this
My speed convertor board sat just to the left of the dials as highlighted in the picture.
Step #3 - Removing the odometer dial cluster
Remove the speedo dials
You should see something either wrapped in electrical insulation tape or the original had a rubber coating.
The board is approximately 2-3" x 1-2".
You can see that the board is spliced into the cable cluster that goes to the odometer cluster. I assume the Red & Black cables are power and the Green & Orange (Yellow in the picture) must be something to do with the speedo.
Unless you're REALLY careful and have 6 hands it's highly unlikely that you'll be able to fix it in situe. I had to cut the wires and take it to the workshop.....
Step 4 - Exposing the board
CAREFULLY remove the shielding from the board and you should see something like this
Step #5 - The Repair
Unless you're an expert with a soldering iron I'd stay well clear of the surface mounted components.
Take a warm iron & apply a small amount of solder on the tip. Now gently re-solder the joints for the larger components (Resistor, Capacitor, etc)
Step #6 - Reinstalling the Convertor Board...
Wrap the board in electrical insulation tape to prevent shorting out.
Because I'd cut the wires I had to rejoint the cables somehow. The wires are only 1.5mm so I decided to use a small terminal block. It meant that if it didn't work then it was easy to de-install again. You're free to use whatever method you see fit.
I toyed with the idea of extending the cables and mounting the Speed Convertor Board in the fuse box so it made it easier to get to should I have a problem in the future. I didn't in the end.
Step #7 - Puting the car back together.
Reverse the procedure above:
1) Reinstall the odometer cluster
2) Put the dash facia back in (remembering to reconnect the plugs)
3) Put the centre console back (if previously removed)
4) Reconnect the battery
Step #8 - The test drive
Take the car out for a spin and see if the problem has gone away.
If it has, fanstastic.
If not then you might have to invest in a new board.
Total time: Approx 2-3hrs, but that's because I had to keep stopping to read the Haynes manual and was extremely nervous about ripping a car apart that I'd owned for just a few days.
Hope it helps chaps
I also had the same problem just days after purchasing the car only mine failed completely. I was reading 0mph where ever I went. Some kind people on this forum told me it was the speed convertor board which sits (usually) behind the odometer dials. And they were right (like I doubted them). I photographed the procedure in case it was useful to anyone one day. That day has arrived....
Step #1 - Disconnect the battery. You don't want to accidentally disturb the air bag system and set it off. Possibly not necessary but better to be safe than sorry.
Step #2 - Removing the dash facia
Carefully remove the dash facia and disconnect the cables. I managed to do it without de-installing the centre console (CD holder & arm rest part of the car) but it's up to you whether you do it or not.
You should end up with something like this
My speed convertor board sat just to the left of the dials as highlighted in the picture.
Step #3 - Removing the odometer dial cluster
Remove the speedo dials
You should see something either wrapped in electrical insulation tape or the original had a rubber coating.
The board is approximately 2-3" x 1-2".
You can see that the board is spliced into the cable cluster that goes to the odometer cluster. I assume the Red & Black cables are power and the Green & Orange (Yellow in the picture) must be something to do with the speedo.
Unless you're REALLY careful and have 6 hands it's highly unlikely that you'll be able to fix it in situe. I had to cut the wires and take it to the workshop.....
Step 4 - Exposing the board
CAREFULLY remove the shielding from the board and you should see something like this
Step #5 - The Repair
Unless you're an expert with a soldering iron I'd stay well clear of the surface mounted components.
Take a warm iron & apply a small amount of solder on the tip. Now gently re-solder the joints for the larger components (Resistor, Capacitor, etc)
Step #6 - Reinstalling the Convertor Board...
Wrap the board in electrical insulation tape to prevent shorting out.
Because I'd cut the wires I had to rejoint the cables somehow. The wires are only 1.5mm so I decided to use a small terminal block. It meant that if it didn't work then it was easy to de-install again. You're free to use whatever method you see fit.
I toyed with the idea of extending the cables and mounting the Speed Convertor Board in the fuse box so it made it easier to get to should I have a problem in the future. I didn't in the end.
Step #7 - Puting the car back together.
Reverse the procedure above:
1) Reinstall the odometer cluster
2) Put the dash facia back in (remembering to reconnect the plugs)
3) Put the centre console back (if previously removed)
4) Reconnect the battery
Step #8 - The test drive
Take the car out for a spin and see if the problem has gone away.
If it has, fanstastic.
If not then you might have to invest in a new board.
Total time: Approx 2-3hrs, but that's because I had to keep stopping to read the Haynes manual and was extremely nervous about ripping a car apart that I'd owned for just a few days.
Hope it helps chaps
COMM_SS_V8 (Steve) What can I say! You are obviously very meticulous and equally capable with regards to trouble shooting and fixing, those instructions and photos are excellent. Many thanks for sharing them.
However I share bells V8 concerns in that if I attempted this I would end up with an unusable car. Where do you live as I would be more than willing to pay you the going rate to fix mine. E-mail me off forum if you are interested david@cartridgeworld.org
However I share bells V8 concerns in that if I attempted this I would end up with an unusable car. Where do you live as I would be more than willing to pay you the going rate to fix mine. E-mail me off forum if you are interested david@cartridgeworld.org
Amazing instructions & photos Steve. I checked out the link from ukhsv (thanks again Paul) & they wanted to know a bit more about it, so I spoke to Mark @ LSV who thinks , that as my speedo is not "broken" i.e not wonky etc. but just overeading, it can be sorted via the ECU. Will let you know the outcome after we have tried this route, I hope to visit LSV in the near future.
Have to admit Paul that I always assumed it was a fault with the converter. But the speedo works fine, very smooth movement etc.etc. It's just obvious at higher speeds that it overreads. As I use a R/A 2 it's easy to compare & at higher speeds it's a good 20% over.
As a complete car electrics numpty I'm totally led by those such as yourself with more knowledge.
Protechnical would change the converter for c.£180. But as they have probably never removed an HSV dash, I'd rather use someone who has.
Would be very grateful if you could eleborate on why not to use the PCM route.
Thanks Tom.
As a complete car electrics numpty I'm totally led by those such as yourself with more knowledge.
Protechnical would change the converter for c.£180. But as they have probably never removed an HSV dash, I'd rather use someone who has.
Would be very grateful if you could eleborate on why not to use the PCM route.
Thanks Tom.
Forum | HSV & Monaro | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff