CV8 2005MY Brakes
Discussion
Reached 20K miles and the brake pads needed replacing.
Front and rear pads are slightly different from 2004MY CV8, as are the discs. The front discs are larger diameter and the pads are also 5mm deeper radially. The rear discs are ventillated (solid on the 2004MY) and are 1.5-2mm wider. The rear pad profile does however match the 2004MY but needs 1mm less pad thickness.
The dealer network should be aware of this and list different part numbers for the 2 models. Pentagon Derby did not have any 2005MY CV8 pads in stock at the time of the 20K service.
I went for the EBC Redstuff Pads recommended by Monkfish, slightly softer than standard therefore less agressive on the discs.
On discovering the differences between the 2 models brake pads Monkfish immediately arranged with EBC to have the correct profile manufactured.
Service does not come any better than that.
Less pedal pressure is required for a better deceleration rate with less grumble comparing EBC pads to standard. A definate improvement.
There is naturally more brake dust on the wheels, which is preferable to metal from the discs!
A strongly recommended option for those of us running standard brakes, but saving up for the disc and caliper upgrade!
Thought this was worth mentioning because i am now at 22K Miles from the end of April 2005, so other Monaro owners know what to expect in the future.
Another important point worth mentioning is that whenever the wheels are removed, make sure that silicone grease or copaslip is applied to the steel boss that protrudes from the wheel mounting hub.
The recent cold weather has increased the amount of salt on the roads which accelerates the corrossion rate on untreated steel. There is slight clearance between the hole in the center of the alloy wheel and the steel boss, corrossion quickly forms on the surface of the boss which virtually locks the wheel to the hub!
Without taking this precaution removing the unbolted wheel requires juditious use of a large lump hammer and a block of wood.
Final point for the evening. The brakes seemed to take a while to bed in on the inner edge of the disc. I seem to recall this also occurred when the car was new. Has anybody else noticed this?
Either the discs on mine are slightly tapered (thicker on the outside edge)which i find hard to believe with current manufacturing tolerances. The other possibility is slight flex in the caliper design which excertes slightly more pressure on the ouside edge of the disc!
Any feed back welcome, sounds like one for Caspy.
Front and rear pads are slightly different from 2004MY CV8, as are the discs. The front discs are larger diameter and the pads are also 5mm deeper radially. The rear discs are ventillated (solid on the 2004MY) and are 1.5-2mm wider. The rear pad profile does however match the 2004MY but needs 1mm less pad thickness.
The dealer network should be aware of this and list different part numbers for the 2 models. Pentagon Derby did not have any 2005MY CV8 pads in stock at the time of the 20K service.
I went for the EBC Redstuff Pads recommended by Monkfish, slightly softer than standard therefore less agressive on the discs.
On discovering the differences between the 2 models brake pads Monkfish immediately arranged with EBC to have the correct profile manufactured.
Service does not come any better than that.
Less pedal pressure is required for a better deceleration rate with less grumble comparing EBC pads to standard. A definate improvement.
There is naturally more brake dust on the wheels, which is preferable to metal from the discs!
A strongly recommended option for those of us running standard brakes, but saving up for the disc and caliper upgrade!
Thought this was worth mentioning because i am now at 22K Miles from the end of April 2005, so other Monaro owners know what to expect in the future.
Another important point worth mentioning is that whenever the wheels are removed, make sure that silicone grease or copaslip is applied to the steel boss that protrudes from the wheel mounting hub.
The recent cold weather has increased the amount of salt on the roads which accelerates the corrossion rate on untreated steel. There is slight clearance between the hole in the center of the alloy wheel and the steel boss, corrossion quickly forms on the surface of the boss which virtually locks the wheel to the hub!
Without taking this precaution removing the unbolted wheel requires juditious use of a large lump hammer and a block of wood.
Final point for the evening. The brakes seemed to take a while to bed in on the inner edge of the disc. I seem to recall this also occurred when the car was new. Has anybody else noticed this?
Either the discs on mine are slightly tapered (thicker on the outside edge)which i find hard to believe with current manufacturing tolerances. The other possibility is slight flex in the caliper design which excertes slightly more pressure on the ouside edge of the disc!
Any feed back welcome, sounds like one for Caspy.
I have done the copperslip bit, they were very hard to shift when I had new tyres fitted -good tip !
My rear brakes are crap. Half the outer face of the rotor is just rust, has been like that from new. I'm getting a full set of AP racing fitted in Feb, so I'm not too bothered about it. If it wasnt for that I would be expecting Vauxhall to replace the rotors under warranty.
My rear brakes are crap. Half the outer face of the rotor is just rust, has been like that from new. I'm getting a full set of AP racing fitted in Feb, so I'm not too bothered about it. If it wasnt for that I would be expecting Vauxhall to replace the rotors under warranty.
Hi V8D
The inner half of the front rotors were rusty on mine for the first few hundred miles after the EBC pad change. They are fine now.
The recommendation was to go easy on the brakes for the first 100 miles, which i duly did, and they seamed reluctant to bed in.
Gave them a bit more abuse after that and they got better quicker!
The rears were fine and they bedded in real quick, probably aided by grinding 1mm off to get them to fit in the first place. Monkfish are on top of this now.
Glad to see you are going for the AP upgrade which will address the brake issues anyway. I am saving for that!
The inner half of the front rotors were rusty on mine for the first few hundred miles after the EBC pad change. They are fine now.
The recommendation was to go easy on the brakes for the first 100 miles, which i duly did, and they seamed reluctant to bed in.
Gave them a bit more abuse after that and they got better quicker!
The rears were fine and they bedded in real quick, probably aided by grinding 1mm off to get them to fit in the first place. Monkfish are on top of this now.
Glad to see you are going for the AP upgrade which will address the brake issues anyway. I am saving for that!
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