Discussion
So one more week and I will have the wortec headers done, I can't believe I am getting as excited as a little boy in the week before christmas 
That will then be the full wortec system and associated remap. My question is, if this was your car what would you go for next?
I am happy with the look of the car (except maybe would love the spoiler that Jeff @ Greens has got but for £1k+ I will pass!).
I am also happy with the VXR brakes, not sure I want to upgrade them to AP's just yet.
So, any suggestions as to what next?
That will then be the full wortec system and associated remap. My question is, if this was your car what would you go for next?
I am happy with the look of the car (except maybe would love the spoiler that Jeff @ Greens has got but for £1k+ I will pass!).
I am also happy with the VXR brakes, not sure I want to upgrade them to AP's just yet.
So, any suggestions as to what next?
LeSerge and I both have around 22x duration cam's
The current US favourite is a comp cams grind using 224/228 duration with hefty lift. But many also like the 216/220 comp cams grind.
There is more cam information than any sane person can take in at www.ls1tech.com like
www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551345 or www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551176 etc
Just do a search in the dyno forum for whatever cam you are interested in to see the graph.
Changing the lobe centreline angle gives better scavanging/power at the expense of economy and idle quality. Also may affect your emissions compliance, so rule of thumb is to go with zero positive overlap. You might have to go with a 114 LSA to do that on the cam above.
Personally for a daily driver I wouldn't go much larger than this size. (Nor any smaller than the 216/220)
Ask the boys at Monkfish or similar for their opinions too. You will need new valve springs to go with the cam, maybe comp cams 918's
The current US favourite is a comp cams grind using 224/228 duration with hefty lift. But many also like the 216/220 comp cams grind.
There is more cam information than any sane person can take in at www.ls1tech.com like
www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551345 or www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551176 etc
Just do a search in the dyno forum for whatever cam you are interested in to see the graph.
Changing the lobe centreline angle gives better scavanging/power at the expense of economy and idle quality. Also may affect your emissions compliance, so rule of thumb is to go with zero positive overlap. You might have to go with a 114 LSA to do that on the cam above.
Personally for a daily driver I wouldn't go much larger than this size. (Nor any smaller than the 216/220)
Ask the boys at Monkfish or similar for their opinions too. You will need new valve springs to go with the cam, maybe comp cams 918's
ringram said:
LeSerge and I both have around 22x duration cam's
The current US favourite is a comp cams grind using 224/228 duration with hefty lift. But many also like the 216/220 comp cams grind.
There is more cam information than any sane person can take in at www.ls1tech.com like
www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551345 or www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551176 etc
Just do a search in the dyno forum for whatever cam you are interested in to see the graph.
Changing the lobe centreline angle gives better scavanging/power at the expense of economy and idle quality. Also may affect your emissions compliance, so rule of thumb is to go with zero positive overlap. You might have to go with a 114 LSA to do that on the cam above.
Personally for a daily driver I wouldn't go much larger than this size. (Nor any smaller than the 216/220)
Ask the boys at Monkfish or similar for their opinions too. You will need new valve springs to go with the cam, maybe comp cams 918's
The current US favourite is a comp cams grind using 224/228 duration with hefty lift. But many also like the 216/220 comp cams grind.
There is more cam information than any sane person can take in at www.ls1tech.com like
www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551345 or www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551176 etc
Just do a search in the dyno forum for whatever cam you are interested in to see the graph.
Changing the lobe centreline angle gives better scavanging/power at the expense of economy and idle quality. Also may affect your emissions compliance, so rule of thumb is to go with zero positive overlap. You might have to go with a 114 LSA to do that on the cam above.
Personally for a daily driver I wouldn't go much larger than this size. (Nor any smaller than the 216/220)
Ask the boys at Monkfish or similar for their opinions too. You will need new valve springs to go with the cam, maybe comp cams 918's
I got to the "US Favourite bit" then something flew over my head, was that written in Dutch or something?
Best get a translator! moosepig said:
Get APs. You won't regret it.
Not after AP's yet, maybe soon.....
caspy said:
3.9 Diff!!!
I had a replacement diff on a previous car, excellent for acceleration but kills top end speed. By my (rough) calculations that would take it down to 160mph top speed and lower top speeds in all gears by 12-13% Need to do some more work to calculate top in 2nd/3rd
hainser said:
Silver respray 
But that would make it slower
Edited by GSI_Daz on Friday 4th August 08:13
Nope!!
The car is overgeared in 6th. Top in 5th works out about 151, top in 6th must knock on towards 190. On a private test track!!!, I have gone faster in 6th with diff than i did in 5th without. Plus, it is very rare you would ever drive above 151 for long, but how quick it can get there is quite staggering.
The car is overgeared in 6th. Top in 5th works out about 151, top in 6th must knock on towards 190. On a private test track!!!, I have gone faster in 6th with diff than i did in 5th without. Plus, it is very rare you would ever drive above 151 for long, but how quick it can get there is quite staggering.
GSI_Daz said:
caspy said:
3.9 Diff!!!
I had a replacement diff on a previous car, excellent for acceleration but kills top end speed. By my (rough) calculations that would take it down to 160mph top speed and lower top speeds in all gears by 12-13% Need to do some more work to calculate top in 2nd/3rd
Actually, this isn't too much of a problem as the car's top speed is reached in 5th ... if you change up to 6th, the engine gearing is so tall it can't keep the revs up.
By putting in a 3.9, you effectively bring 6th gear into use as a drving gear rather than just a "over-drive" for motor cruising.
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