Discussion
Three points:
1) You always get used to the power when the honeymoon period is over, and:
2) Adding forced induction is the most noticeable way to gain power (although after adding power - see above).
3) Lots of power is like good sex - if you've never had it you probably wouldn't miss it; but once you've had it you always want it.
1) You always get used to the power when the honeymoon period is over, and:
2) Adding forced induction is the most noticeable way to gain power (although after adding power - see above).
3) Lots of power is like good sex - if you've never had it you probably wouldn't miss it; but once you've had it you always want it.
the na route is good value if you know when to stop ;D. Just had an email from ringram with some good info on possible cam upgrade path for the car and its looking more appealing by the day. Can buy a good road spec cam for around 150 quid from the US, its all the other bits you need that add up the cost! Have also ordered up some good techie guides from Oz and US for LS1 engines including full strip and rebuild instructions. Be warned though it can quickly get out of hand, I started looking at cams and now I'm looking at whether I might be as well to get some decent free flowing heads as well etc etc etc. Starting to look expensive though at least I can buy a bit here and there and put them aside until I'm ready to install it all.
indeed, I too am thinking as much as I have always wanted FI at some point, I cannot help but feel that it would be better to stick to NA this time. Overall cost should be similar or less than the blower/turbo route (if you throw in the intercooler which if I was going FI I would personally get)
the thing about changing cams is that all you are typically doing is moving the torque peak higher up the rev range - thefore getting more power up top - at the expense of lower down.
And remember if you fit a cam with alot of overlap, you will need to remove it again if you finally give in and go FI.
And remember if you fit a cam with alot of overlap, you will need to remove it again if you finally give in and go FI.
eliot said:
the thing about changing cams is that all you are typically doing is moving the torque peak higher up the rev range - thefore getting more power up top - at the expense of lower down.
And remember if you fit a cam with alot of overlap, you will need to remove it again if you finally give in and go FI.
And remember if you fit a cam with alot of overlap, you will need to remove it again if you finally give in and go FI.
Not true, stock cam has very low lift, like under 0.500 at the valve, aftermarket cams give you up to 0.600 lift and faster ramps so the area the valves are open for are extended without adding to overlap and duration unless you want to. It all depends what you are after.
If you want to see how to do a proper NA engine check this out www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122108
Final numbers (add usual sighs about methodologies etc) were over 510RWHP! Note Rear Wheel! Not flywheel!
Its not cheap, but it will wipe any non intercooled forced induction setup on a stock engine, hell probably a few intercooled stock engines as well. As Stevie says ultimately you wont beat forced induction, but ask him if his engine is stock. Most serious forced induction apps are rebuilt engines. It depends if you consider a new set of heads a rebuild or not. But the engine in the article is basically a stock shortblock.
Plus when it comes to sell an NA engine will look totally stock and servicing can be based on stock knowledge etc.
Bottom line set your goals early. Forced induction needs an intercooler, high power forced induction will need a stronger block, etc. NA will get you 500rwhp with a top dollar combo. FI over 1000rwhp.
ringram said:
but ask him if his engine is stock.
of course not
But I did stick the YSi blower onto a totally standard LS1 ( albeit with exhaust and manifolds, and supporting fuel mods and FMIC etc )
It managed a relatively easy 12.2 @ 122mph over the 1/4. Unfortunately, I only got one proper run, as the factory clutch decided it didnt want to play anymore.
It all boils down to budget, and what sort of power everyone wants. As you mention, LS1 cams are almost flat, no lift, and very mild, so there are dozens of upgrades out there, that wil see good gains everywhere.
LSx heads are also very good.....but there are also some very very very good aftermarket heads out there too.
In short, it doesnt matter what route you want to take, n/a or FI, these engines have so much potential just waiting to be released.
ringram said:
If you want to see how to do a proper NA engine check this out www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122108
Good lord, all that hard work and then he put 93 RON petrol in it!
ETA: I now know this to be a load of old tosh. You live and learn!
Edited by moosepig on Wednesday 17th January 17:37
moosepig said:
ringram said:
If you want to see how to do a proper NA engine check this out www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122108
Good lord, all that hard work and then he put 93 RON petrol in it!
nice bait there!!!
moosepig said:
ringram said:
If you want to see how to do a proper NA engine check this out www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122108
Good lord, all that hard work and then he put 93 RON petrol in it!
No he didnt.
US use 93 PON, pump octane number, which is (MON+RON)/2
Basically 93 PON the yanks get, is about the same as our 97/98 RON.
stevieturbo said:
moosepig said:
ringram said:
If you want to see how to do a proper NA engine check this out www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122108
Good lord, all that hard work and then he put 93 RON petrol in it!
No he didnt.
US use 93 PON, pump octane number, which is (MON+RON)/2
Basically 93 PON the yanks get, is about the same as our 97/98 RON.
I'm quoting to stop a hasty edit, you bit, shame on you moosepig for that!
Goes to get eyes checkedThe safest level is the lowest! However, with a Wortec tune you will be OK upto 10/12psi.
Start with the standard 5psi, then upgrade to the next level when you have "got used" to your new power level.
If you want to go further than this, then new pistons are a must. this can certainly be done, however it is a major job, involving removal of the engine.
Start with the standard 5psi, then upgrade to the next level when you have "got used" to your new power level.
If you want to go further than this, then new pistons are a must. this can certainly be done, however it is a major job, involving removal of the engine.
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