Cold Air Intake
Discussion
I was suprised to see that the CAI is positioned facing up into the gap where the bonnet closes down onto and not into the mouth of the grill, its opening is so small in relation to the pipe from the air filter and the AFM.
Apart from drilling holes in the air filter box which allows hot air from the engine bay to be drawn in, are there any other CAI modifications that draw air from a high pressure area in the grill?
Apart from drilling holes in the air filter box which allows hot air from the engine bay to be drawn in, are there any other CAI modifications that draw air from a high pressure area in the grill?
I assume you are referring to an over the radiator cold air intake in the first section of your post, this actually has been shown to push far greater volumes of cold air into the engine than the standard airbox. As for the additional holes in a standard box they are drilled in such a location as to take more cold air from the outside and not to take hot air from the engine bay, at least assuming you put the shielding back in place.
There were some after-market "wide mouth" OTR kits supplied by CAPA or SSV which were poorly designed and actually reduced the airflow. Several of the 2004 cars had these fitted as a CAI mod (mine was one). Best advice would be to remove it and return to the standard airbox while adding an extra hole.
(Saw the exhaust at rogers. Looks good) ringram said:
This is the PT style one I use.
Looks good, have you done away with the AFM? I had in mind ducting past the radiator into the mouth of the lower grill?
Whats happened to WRC technologies, its the only reference to 3rd party induction modifications I can find and the web sites down?
Oh also you can get a G&D intake from Oz which fits tightly past the radiator and pics up air from in front of it. You need to mess about a bit. Mine sits over the radiator and pics up from the front of the bonnet. After a drive around if you open the bonnet the intake is cold to touch. While idling it heats up a bit.
I was going to put some reflective heat shield on the underneath. Also why I got it in white.
The K&N filter gets a bit dirty though.
You can check to see if you have an intake restriction by looking at your open throttle manifold pressure. If its less than atmospheric (ie slight vacuum) then you have a restriction. With the Fast90 the restriction was removed in mine and I gained around 4Kpa at WOT. Basically that adds straight to the power output.
I was going to put some reflective heat shield on the underneath. Also why I got it in white.
The K&N filter gets a bit dirty though.
You can check to see if you have an intake restriction by looking at your open throttle manifold pressure. If its less than atmospheric (ie slight vacuum) then you have a restriction. With the Fast90 the restriction was removed in mine and I gained around 4Kpa at WOT. Basically that adds straight to the power output.
Gelf VXR
My OTRAI is a black version not dissimilar to ringrams. Basically after head and cam job we needed more air to optimise the set up and this worked a treat. A Fast90 and bigger TB woudl push it further but may take the fuel use to an unacceptabel level for me with my mileage (it is fine just now)anyway I had decided if I was to go any further with teh power game it would be stroker time......500rwhp no probs!
Yes you will need a custom map for your set up if you go mafless although other options may be available - ask Roger at Monkfish.
Personally I have had veryy few issues with Mafless only on stupidly hot days did it seem to loose a bit of power but so do FI cars. On cold days yippeee!
Oh my idle is great, enough of a lope to sound a bit different from stock but nto too much so that the car windows shake out which is great as it is my daily driver (just booked in for 60k service!).
Runs on cruise, stops an didles fo rages in traffic jams and then on fast cruise - no issue at all.
My OTRAI is a black version not dissimilar to ringrams. Basically after head and cam job we needed more air to optimise the set up and this worked a treat. A Fast90 and bigger TB woudl push it further but may take the fuel use to an unacceptabel level for me with my mileage (it is fine just now)anyway I had decided if I was to go any further with teh power game it would be stroker time......500rwhp no probs!
Yes you will need a custom map for your set up if you go mafless although other options may be available - ask Roger at Monkfish.
Personally I have had veryy few issues with Mafless only on stupidly hot days did it seem to loose a bit of power but so do FI cars. On cold days yippeee!
Oh my idle is great, enough of a lope to sound a bit different from stock but nto too much so that the car windows shake out which is great as it is my daily driver (just booked in for 60k service!).
Runs on cruise, stops an didles fo rages in traffic jams and then on fast cruise - no issue at all.
Yes, unless you have an HSV GTS (UK GTS-R) in which case its already done.
It will still run, but will run off the low octane timing table. A quick fix is to copy the high to the low. (As per HSV GTS) But there is more to it than that (as expected). Once removed the car will run off the VE table with hundreds of cells instead of the maf table with 60 odd cells. Obviously much better resolution with the VE for better total driving experience, but it really means that the VE table needs to be tuned. From the factory its easier just to throw a maf at it and say you fix the fueling up instead of making the VE table accurate. If you run Speed density, its best to get the whole VE table zero'd in. The VE table is a map of engine efficiency as RPM x MAP. Each modification you make can alter the VE table.
It will still run, but will run off the low octane timing table. A quick fix is to copy the high to the low. (As per HSV GTS) But there is more to it than that (as expected). Once removed the car will run off the VE table with hundreds of cells instead of the maf table with 60 odd cells. Obviously much better resolution with the VE for better total driving experience, but it really means that the VE table needs to be tuned. From the factory its easier just to throw a maf at it and say you fix the fueling up instead of making the VE table accurate. If you run Speed density, its best to get the whole VE table zero'd in. The VE table is a map of engine efficiency as RPM x MAP. Each modification you make can alter the VE table.
Le Sarthe said:
A Fast90 and bigger TB woudl push it further but may take the fuel use to an unacceptabel level for me with my mileage (it is fine just now)anyway I had decided if I was to go any further with teh power game it would be stroker time......500rwhp no probs!
At the same speed the better breathing engine should use less fuel (less pumping losses)... unless you plant your foot then the better breathing engine will eat more fuel (and give more power).
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