Vantage 4.3 sports cats - 2022 recommendations?
Discussion
Fancy treating myself and the car to an early Christmas present in the form of the famed 200 cell secondary cats 
I have seen several historical threads on the subject of where to get these and prices, but I wonder if anybody has any up to date recommendations for where these could be bought?
Just looking for the best balance between cost and quality, and for those that can be fitted easily and generically so(if that's a good idea? I realise a remap to accommodate the change the sensors would potentially notice may be also advisable...)
Cheers
I have seen several historical threads on the subject of where to get these and prices, but I wonder if anybody has any up to date recommendations for where these could be bought?
Just looking for the best balance between cost and quality, and for those that can be fitted easily and generically so(if that's a good idea? I realise a remap to accommodate the change the sensors would potentially notice may be also advisable...)
Cheers
My understanding is that the 4·3 and early 4·7 Vantages have almost identical exhaust systems.
In other words, no primary cats in the manifolds, but just one cat in each branch. The single cats contain two 'bricks' a 900 cell and 400 cell.
The modification to my car was simply the removal of the 900 bricks. You then have a 400 cell system for low cost. No welding to the original cat, so exactly OEM appearance remains. The increase in 'music' is just right. Raucous on acceleration, louder after cold starts, but importantly almost the same in the cabin at steady throttle.
Something is done to the ECU to avoid error messages. In conjunction with that, I had the Prodrive airbox mod and a 3-way exhaust switch (can be always closed when required). Some more horses are in with the deal.
Think the manifold primary cats only became fitments in about 2010.
Had mine done at the same time as having the twin plate clutch/lightened flywheel hence, difficult to say how much of a difference they have made performance wise (if anything) but I have noticed since getting them done how many people comment on the sound my car makes. So many people at Simply Aston earlier this year commented on how much better mine sounded to most others!
I can only put it down to the cats being 200 cell as the rest of the exhaust is stock. However, it surely must be freer flowing, less restrictive than the stock cats. Also, you will be able to sell your stock cats for a nice sum. I sold mine for about £800.
I can only put it down to the cats being 200 cell as the rest of the exhaust is stock. However, it surely must be freer flowing, less restrictive than the stock cats. Also, you will be able to sell your stock cats for a nice sum. I sold mine for about £800.
Dewi 2 said:
My understanding is that the 4·3 and early 4·7 Vantages have almost identical exhaust systems.
In other words, no primary cats in the manifolds, but just one cat in each branch. The single cats contain two 'bricks' a 900 cell and 400 cell.
The modification to my car was simply the removal of the 900 bricks. You then have a 400 cell system for low cost. No welding to the original cat, so exactly OEM appearance remains. The increase in 'music' is just right. Raucous on acceleration, louder after cold starts, but importantly almost the same in the cabin at steady throttle.
Something is done to the ECU to avoid error messages. In conjunction with that, I had the Prodrive airbox mod and a 3-way exhaust switch (can be always closed when required). Some more horses are in with the deal.
Think the manifold primary cats only became fitments in about 2010.
philip600 said:
Hi, what was involved to remove the 900 cel but leave the 400 cel in the standard cats ?
I did not do the work myself Philip, so don't know, but the following would be my guess;
The cat in this photo must be quite new, because usually heat marks can be seen either side of the sensor mount (in the fat part), which indicate the cat locations. Which side the 900 cell one is, I don't know, but I guess it is cut to pieces by entering from the end. Think that must be how it is done, because no welding is involved. An ECU remap is needed to avoid an error message. MoT is fine.
Sound is just right. Tone is OEM, but louder. At steady throttle, no noticeable difference in the cockpit which is good, because I don't want droning on a motorway trip. Press the throttle though and kerrpow.
Dewi 2 said:
philip600 said:
Hi, what was involved to remove the 900 cel but leave the 400 cel in the standard cats ?
I did not do the work myself Philip, so don't know, but the following would be my guess;
The cat in this photo must be quite new, because usually heat marks can be seen either side of the sensor mount (in the fat part), which indicate the cat locations. Which side the 900 cell one is, I don't know, but I guess it is cut to pieces by entering from the end. Think that must be how it is done, because no welding is involved. An ECU remap is needed to avoid an error message. MoT is fine.
Sound is just right. Tone is OEM, but louder. At steady throttle, no noticeable difference in the cockpit which is good, because I don't want droning on a motorway trip. Press the throttle though and kerrpow.
Wanted to explore the above if anyone else has any experience or how it’s done?
I always thought the solution was a new pair of “sports” cats (eg 200 cell) from BR or VAP or wherever, and swapping them over.
Unless I’m getting confused, is it a common and probably cheaper mod to fiddle with the existing cats to remove the larger secondary post sensor cat brick? (I think that’s the 900 cell bit, and can be removed?)
Is that the bit that’s removed? And how is that done…. not angle grinder in situ and welded back closed surely? Or taking off and cut up through the end as above?
Edited by Krhuangbin on Friday 14th April 21:25
Krhuangbin said:
Just picking up this old thread of mine again
Wanted to explore the above if anyone else has any experience or how it’s done?
I always thought the solution was a new pair of “sports” cats (eg 200 cell) from BR or VAP or wherever, and swapping them over.
Unless I’m getting confused, is it a common and probably cheaper mod to fiddle with the existing cats to remove the larger secondary post sensor cat brick? (I think that’s the 900 cell bit, and can be removed?)
Is that the bit that’s removed? And how is that done…. not angle grinder in situ and welded back closed surely?
Wanted to explore the above if anyone else has any experience or how it’s done?
I always thought the solution was a new pair of “sports” cats (eg 200 cell) from BR or VAP or wherever, and swapping them over.
Unless I’m getting confused, is it a common and probably cheaper mod to fiddle with the existing cats to remove the larger secondary post sensor cat brick? (I think that’s the 900 cell bit, and can be removed?)
Is that the bit that’s removed? And how is that done…. not angle grinder in situ and welded back closed surely?
My car is an early 4.7, which I understand has the same exhaust system as yours, ie. no primary cats in the manifolds.
The mod for any car with primary cats, is often to have the secondary cars replaced by 'sports cats', or even removed.
So yes, it is a cheaper mod.
Mine was done by BR, together with an intake mod, remap and 3-way exhaust valve switch.
Don't know how done, but logically remove cats, go in through the open end of the cat, machine out the matrix, then replace the cats.
Doubt any welding necessary.
Obviously need to know which end of the cat the 900 cell matrix is, to avoid cutting out the wrong one.
Want to be left with the 400 cells. Quite a reduction from the original total of 1,300 cells, hence the extra 'orchestra'.
Cannot simply remove cats, because they are not secondaries. The result would be no cats on the car at all.
Edited by Dewi 2 on Friday 14th April 21:31
Dewi 2 said:
Krhuangbin said:
Just picking up this old thread of mine again
Wanted to explore the above if anyone else has any experience or how it’s done?
I always thought the solution was a new pair of “sports” cats (eg 200 cell) from BR or VAP or wherever, and swapping them over.
Unless I’m getting confused, is it a common and probably cheaper mod to fiddle with the existing cats to remove the larger secondary post sensor cat brick? (I think that’s the 900 cell bit, and can be removed?)
Is that the bit that’s removed? And how is that done…. not angle grinder in situ and welded back closed surely?
Wanted to explore the above if anyone else has any experience or how it’s done?
I always thought the solution was a new pair of “sports” cats (eg 200 cell) from BR or VAP or wherever, and swapping them over.
Unless I’m getting confused, is it a common and probably cheaper mod to fiddle with the existing cats to remove the larger secondary post sensor cat brick? (I think that’s the 900 cell bit, and can be removed?)
Is that the bit that’s removed? And how is that done…. not angle grinder in situ and welded back closed surely?
My car is an early 4.7, which I understand has the same exhaust system as yours, ie. no primary cats in the manifolds.
The mod for any car with primary cats, is often to have the secondary cars replaced by 'sports cats', or even removed.
So yes, it is a cheaper mod.
Mine was done by BR, together with an intake mod, remap and 3-way exhaust valve switch.
Don't know how done, but logically remove cats, go in through the open end of the cat, machine out the matrix, then replace the cats.
Doubt any welding necessary.
Obviously need to know which end of the cat the 900 cell matrix is, to avoid cutting out the wrong one.
Want to be left with the 400 cells. Quite a reduction from the original total of 1,300 cells, hence the extra 'orchestra'.
Cannot simply remove cats, because they are not secondaries. The result would be no cats on the car at all.
Edited by Dewi 2 on Friday 14th April 21:31
I hear the BR remap also gives a little better throttle response too, as in it removes the "dead" bit at the very top of the pedal for a little more responsiveness.... is that your experience?
Cheers
Krhuangbin said:
Thanks Dewi (sorry only just read your reply!) Yes sounds like what i thought was the case..... i.e the cats are removed, the secondary section "dissected" out of the exit hole leaving the primary bit (between the upstream and downstream sensors) in place (and a nice little empty secondary chamber for a bit of reverb prior to the back box...!) then bolted back on, plus a remap to accommodate.
I hear the BR remap also gives a little better throttle response too, as in it removes the "dead" bit at the very top of the pedal for a little more responsiveness.... is that your experience?
Cheers
I hear the BR remap also gives a little better throttle response too, as in it removes the "dead" bit at the very top of the pedal for a little more responsiveness.... is that your experience?
Cheers
No sure what 'very top of the pedal' is.
Accelerator pedal to the floor, or the initial portion of throttle movement?
Are you experiencing a flat spot moment ?
Judging these finer points is not easy with fairly powerful cars.
My restriction driving the Vantage is either the traffic ahead, or speed limits. Neither allow me to hold full throttle for more than a few seconds, so noticing improved responsiveness is quite difficult.
The cat mod came about when I was after a louder 'orchestra', but that was accompanied by a few more horsepower. It is said that the cat alteration might release about 20 bhp and the airbox mod maybe 10 bhp. Even so, with 420 bhp (4.7) to start with, 5% extra is not very easy to notice. My car also has a lighter flywheel, so I suppose it all helps with response.
Each winter I talk Astons, so looking forward to May, when I start driving again. Only a couple of weeks.
Hi Krhuangbin
The subject of getting more out of the early (pre EU5, pre Vantage S, pre ‘pre-cat’) Vantages via exhaust modification has been the subject of endless discussions over many years on here. There used to be a thread by one of the more well known specialists (Mike Beake of Bamford Rose) that often outlined some pretty good explanations of what the solutions could be. I copy an extract below pertaining to the possibilities with your car, and add a link to the original thread.
Back in the day it was understood that the real gain came from upgrading the manifold. It’s expensive. The usual other common perfomance mod was swapping the dense OEM cats for less restrictive 200cell motorsport cats. Hacking half of the valuable platinum/palladium out of each OEM cat for maybe 5hp gain (and rendering it worthless) was something that came later as a ‘low cost’ way to get a bit more power/noise.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
On page 1:
Exhaust system:
Replacement of the standard silencer with upgrade to a sports system seems a very popular modification. One reason for this, additional to the search for extra performance, is the search for an exhaust note of personal preference, made necessary by the fact that the standard exhaust note is muted under certain conditions to comply with stringent noise drive-by regulations to allow the car to enter the market place. Simple solution.. Remove fuse 22 to prevent the bypass / silencing valve (located in the silencer) from closing and making the exhaust note quieter in these sensitive conditions. The valve is fully open in its default position, so electronic removal of control simply allows the valve to stay open at all times. The result, the exhaust note provided by the standard silencer is no longer muted at low engine speeds, there is no performance increase achieved via this mod, however, the drivers perception of performance will increase due to the simple fact the exhaust note is louder.
For those owners who have undertaken this mod already, but are still in search of a ‘different’ exhaust note, the next stage is the fitment of an aftermarket silencer system. Regarding sound quality, there is no right or wrong answer here, its personal preference and each brand does something different; from American muscle car V8 burble to a more European ‘refined’ racing note. As the exhaust note from aftermarket silencer will inevitably be louder than removal of fuse 22, the driver will yet again perceive greater engine performance, but, in reality the performance gain is something quite different. Reduced (louder) silencing is achieved by internal design changes which cause a reduction in exhaust system back pressure. The result of this increase in engine breathing is increased performance, however, the drivers perception of performance is greater than the actual flywheel / road wheel performance gain, and many aftermarket tuning companies prey on this fact by claiming more performance than is actually true. These days, it is pretty much industry standard concerning engines which produce close to 100BHP per litre to report that a silencer causes an exhaust back pressure rise of circa 10 Kilopascal (KPa), the same industry standard reports about a 0.7BHP increase per 1Kpa reduction of system backpressure. This means that even if you were to remove the silencer completely, with the intermediate pipes venting to atmosphere, the performance increase would be in the region of 7BHP. However, this is with no silencer box present, so with some form of silencing present, no matter how loud, there will be a small amount of additional back pressure increase. Given an average silencer backpressure rise of, say, 5 KPa, the true increase of performance would be (5x0.7) 3.5BHP. Anybody claiming more than this is preying on the fact the loud exhaust note is worth a perceived performance increase, should their systems come with ‘power test results’ claiming more, scrutiny of the test conditions must be made to verify claims.
Replacement of the Catalyst with upgrade to a sports system is the next step. The V8 Vantage has twin bricks fitted within the catalyst can. Using the same industry standard mentioned above, catalysts fitted to 100BHP per litre engines cause a typical increase in exhaust system backpressure of approx. 12.5KPa. There are two fitted, so, do the maths again, 2x12.5x0.7 = 17.5BHP rise if there were no catalysts whatsoever present in the system. There are plenty of motorsport catalysts on the market, all of which have some form of catalyst matrix present in the can. So, the reduction in system backpressure in reality would be, say, 15KPa (leaving approx.10). Meaning the true increase of performance would be 15x0.7=10.5BHP. Same as with the silencer, anybody claiming more than this is preying on the fact the loud exhaust note is worth a greater ‘perceived’ performance increase.
So, long story short, perceived performance increase from sports silencer and motorsport catalysts can often be…mega…. The reality is approx. 3.5BHP from silencer, 10.5BHP catalysts = 14BHP total. Because this performance increase stems from the reduction in the build-up of exhaust back pressure, the build-up of exhaust back pressure does not start until approx. 5500 rpm, and become significant until 6000 rpm to the redline. So, loud exhaust note and the potential of 14BHP aside, you will not realistically notice the difference in vehicle performance unless you drive consistently up to the redline speed.
The final step regarding the exhaust system would be the manifold / primary pipes. The standard exhaust system fitted to the V8 Vantage is a 4-2-1 configuration. The intelligent modification would be a 4-1 system that gives the same low speed torque figure, yet improved breathing at peak power speed to return the potential which comes from a 4-1 configuration (4-2-1 configurations give better low speed torque at the sacrifice of power, whilst 4-1 systems often sacrifice torque to give better breathing at peak power speeds). Combine a manifold of 4-1 construction (which does not loose any torque), which would increase power by approx. 15BHP, with motorsport catalysts (10.5BHP) and sports silencer (3.5BHP) and you have the potential of a fantastic exhaust note with real world performance increase above approx. 5500 rpm of circa 30BHP. And yes, this would be +30BHP for either 4.3L or 4.7L as the rule of performance increase from backpressure reduction is the same for both displacements.
The subject of getting more out of the early (pre EU5, pre Vantage S, pre ‘pre-cat’) Vantages via exhaust modification has been the subject of endless discussions over many years on here. There used to be a thread by one of the more well known specialists (Mike Beake of Bamford Rose) that often outlined some pretty good explanations of what the solutions could be. I copy an extract below pertaining to the possibilities with your car, and add a link to the original thread.
Back in the day it was understood that the real gain came from upgrading the manifold. It’s expensive. The usual other common perfomance mod was swapping the dense OEM cats for less restrictive 200cell motorsport cats. Hacking half of the valuable platinum/palladium out of each OEM cat for maybe 5hp gain (and rendering it worthless) was something that came later as a ‘low cost’ way to get a bit more power/noise.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
On page 1:
Exhaust system:
Replacement of the standard silencer with upgrade to a sports system seems a very popular modification. One reason for this, additional to the search for extra performance, is the search for an exhaust note of personal preference, made necessary by the fact that the standard exhaust note is muted under certain conditions to comply with stringent noise drive-by regulations to allow the car to enter the market place. Simple solution.. Remove fuse 22 to prevent the bypass / silencing valve (located in the silencer) from closing and making the exhaust note quieter in these sensitive conditions. The valve is fully open in its default position, so electronic removal of control simply allows the valve to stay open at all times. The result, the exhaust note provided by the standard silencer is no longer muted at low engine speeds, there is no performance increase achieved via this mod, however, the drivers perception of performance will increase due to the simple fact the exhaust note is louder.
For those owners who have undertaken this mod already, but are still in search of a ‘different’ exhaust note, the next stage is the fitment of an aftermarket silencer system. Regarding sound quality, there is no right or wrong answer here, its personal preference and each brand does something different; from American muscle car V8 burble to a more European ‘refined’ racing note. As the exhaust note from aftermarket silencer will inevitably be louder than removal of fuse 22, the driver will yet again perceive greater engine performance, but, in reality the performance gain is something quite different. Reduced (louder) silencing is achieved by internal design changes which cause a reduction in exhaust system back pressure. The result of this increase in engine breathing is increased performance, however, the drivers perception of performance is greater than the actual flywheel / road wheel performance gain, and many aftermarket tuning companies prey on this fact by claiming more performance than is actually true. These days, it is pretty much industry standard concerning engines which produce close to 100BHP per litre to report that a silencer causes an exhaust back pressure rise of circa 10 Kilopascal (KPa), the same industry standard reports about a 0.7BHP increase per 1Kpa reduction of system backpressure. This means that even if you were to remove the silencer completely, with the intermediate pipes venting to atmosphere, the performance increase would be in the region of 7BHP. However, this is with no silencer box present, so with some form of silencing present, no matter how loud, there will be a small amount of additional back pressure increase. Given an average silencer backpressure rise of, say, 5 KPa, the true increase of performance would be (5x0.7) 3.5BHP. Anybody claiming more than this is preying on the fact the loud exhaust note is worth a perceived performance increase, should their systems come with ‘power test results’ claiming more, scrutiny of the test conditions must be made to verify claims.
Replacement of the Catalyst with upgrade to a sports system is the next step. The V8 Vantage has twin bricks fitted within the catalyst can. Using the same industry standard mentioned above, catalysts fitted to 100BHP per litre engines cause a typical increase in exhaust system backpressure of approx. 12.5KPa. There are two fitted, so, do the maths again, 2x12.5x0.7 = 17.5BHP rise if there were no catalysts whatsoever present in the system. There are plenty of motorsport catalysts on the market, all of which have some form of catalyst matrix present in the can. So, the reduction in system backpressure in reality would be, say, 15KPa (leaving approx.10). Meaning the true increase of performance would be 15x0.7=10.5BHP. Same as with the silencer, anybody claiming more than this is preying on the fact the loud exhaust note is worth a greater ‘perceived’ performance increase.
So, long story short, perceived performance increase from sports silencer and motorsport catalysts can often be…mega…. The reality is approx. 3.5BHP from silencer, 10.5BHP catalysts = 14BHP total. Because this performance increase stems from the reduction in the build-up of exhaust back pressure, the build-up of exhaust back pressure does not start until approx. 5500 rpm, and become significant until 6000 rpm to the redline. So, loud exhaust note and the potential of 14BHP aside, you will not realistically notice the difference in vehicle performance unless you drive consistently up to the redline speed.
The final step regarding the exhaust system would be the manifold / primary pipes. The standard exhaust system fitted to the V8 Vantage is a 4-2-1 configuration. The intelligent modification would be a 4-1 system that gives the same low speed torque figure, yet improved breathing at peak power speed to return the potential which comes from a 4-1 configuration (4-2-1 configurations give better low speed torque at the sacrifice of power, whilst 4-1 systems often sacrifice torque to give better breathing at peak power speeds). Combine a manifold of 4-1 construction (which does not loose any torque), which would increase power by approx. 15BHP, with motorsport catalysts (10.5BHP) and sports silencer (3.5BHP) and you have the potential of a fantastic exhaust note with real world performance increase above approx. 5500 rpm of circa 30BHP. And yes, this would be +30BHP for either 4.3L or 4.7L as the rule of performance increase from backpressure reduction is the same for both displacements.
I’m considering the 200cel catalysts, too, and a remap for my ‘06 Vantage, but reading that old thread seems to suggest 10.5 bhp for the catalysts and 0 bhp for the remap, so perhaps not worth the bother, considering the cost. Or have things moved on since then in terms of catalyst construction and remap coding knowledge?
HeWhoDaresRoy said:
I’m considering the 200cel catalysts, too, and a remap for my ‘06 Vantage, but reading that old thread seems to suggest 10.5 bhp for the catalysts and 0 bhp for the remap, so perhaps not worth the bother, considering the cost. Or have things moved on since then in terms of catalyst construction and remap coding knowledge?
List Of Bamford Rose options here https://bamfordrose.com/road-car-upgrades/introduc...
Personally Id go for the cats and take the 10 bhp and more noise. Unlikely you can feel 10bhp in a 1.6 ton car, but the noise is worth it.
Thats all Ive done in my car, and fit a remote for fuse 22 so you can have it quiet for early morning getaways without waking the neighbors
bogie said:
Personally I'd go for the cats and take the 10 bhp and more noise. Unlikely you can feel 10bhp in a 1.6 ton car, but the noise is worth it.
That's all I've done in my car, and fit a remote for fuse 22 so you can have it quiet for early morning getaways without waking the neighbors
That's all I've done in my car, and fit a remote for fuse 22 so you can have it quiet for early morning getaways without waking the neighbors
Yes agree. That was exactly my point.
It may be different with a 4.3, but when originally removing fuse 22, I could not hear any difference at all from inside the car.
Some other owners of early 4.7s (those with the 4.3 exhaust configuration) have said the same.
Yes, both valves are working.
With the BR modification, the exhaust sound is now fantastic. Still true Aston Martin, but louder at startup and during full throttle acceleration. There are even descrete pops, when changing up at high revs. Only a couple though, certainly not an artificial sound. If desired when cruising, close the exhaust valves, then the cabin noise almost identical to OEM.
You get the best of both worlds. Steady throttle "That is an Aston Martin". Full acceleration, "Gosh, what an amazing sound".
Claims of the amount of extra power are probably exagerated. Maybe extra power is worthwhile for a 4.3, I don't know, but I cannot use the full power of the 4.7 on public roads for more than a few seconds, so what is the point of spending a considerable amount of money on manifolds, back boxes and sport cats?
A V12V seems the answer to those who want more power, much more.
NOTE. Using a remote to close the exhaust valves, does not make any difference at startup or below about 1,500rpm.
The remote selects either 1. Open at all times, or 2. OEM.
A wired switch is needed to obtain 3. Closed at all times.
@Calinours, thanks for the above. Quality stuff as usual
As others have mentioned, the negligible performance gain would for just be a bonus, I’m not too bothered that fiddling with the cats wouldn’t produce any really noticeable gain in power.
Now if I had the budget to give my car the full exhaust “works,” I.e the 4-1 manifolds, proper high flow cats, maybe a “X” pipe.... then yes I’d expect some noticeable gains. I may just work towards that all bit by bit.
However my main concern is simply enjoying yobbing around in my Aston Martin and I just want it to sing even more than it already does via the most economical way possible
I’d also leave the 4.3 backbox alone. I know this is probably a matter of opinion, but watching some of the videos on YouTube of the cars leaving Simply AM Beaulieu over the last few years, I think without doubt the best sounding giving it some up the road, are the modified 4.3 Vantages..... I include 4.7s, V12Vs, DBSs, DB9s, Vanqs etc The upgraded 4.3s sound unreal, even if they’re not the fastest up the road.
In terms of the remap I was alluding to, and the “dead top of pedal” issue, I was thinking that the remap Mike at BR does to accommodate the new cats for the sensors also improves, as he describes it in videos, “driveabilty” ..... I.e it’s mapped for a little less fuel Economy and also as if the 4.3 throttle had been given a permanently pressed sport button..... much like I had in my old E46 M3 and even Mini Cooper S; the sport button in both made the throttle react far quicker with far less pedal travel and just feel sharper.
Is supposed to go some way to overcoming the mechanical drawbacks of the heavy flywheel and single plate clutch
I think “Olv” on here recently had this done along with some kind of cat mod at BR in his gorgeous blue 4.3 and said it drove hugely sharper.
As others have mentioned, the negligible performance gain would for just be a bonus, I’m not too bothered that fiddling with the cats wouldn’t produce any really noticeable gain in power.
Now if I had the budget to give my car the full exhaust “works,” I.e the 4-1 manifolds, proper high flow cats, maybe a “X” pipe.... then yes I’d expect some noticeable gains. I may just work towards that all bit by bit.
However my main concern is simply enjoying yobbing around in my Aston Martin and I just want it to sing even more than it already does via the most economical way possible
I’d also leave the 4.3 backbox alone. I know this is probably a matter of opinion, but watching some of the videos on YouTube of the cars leaving Simply AM Beaulieu over the last few years, I think without doubt the best sounding giving it some up the road, are the modified 4.3 Vantages..... I include 4.7s, V12Vs, DBSs, DB9s, Vanqs etc
The upgraded 4.3s sound unreal, even if they’re not the fastest up the road.In terms of the remap I was alluding to, and the “dead top of pedal” issue, I was thinking that the remap Mike at BR does to accommodate the new cats for the sensors also improves, as he describes it in videos, “driveabilty” ..... I.e it’s mapped for a little less fuel Economy and also as if the 4.3 throttle had been given a permanently pressed sport button..... much like I had in my old E46 M3 and even Mini Cooper S; the sport button in both made the throttle react far quicker with far less pedal travel and just feel sharper.
Is supposed to go some way to overcoming the mechanical drawbacks of the heavy flywheel and single plate clutch
I think “Olv” on here recently had this done along with some kind of cat mod at BR in his gorgeous blue 4.3 and said it drove hugely sharper.
Just had a look at the BR website (thanks) and there’s a bit under ‘Efficiency’ that mentions remapping can be done after the cats are upgraded to remove the overfueling that’s mapped-in to keep the cats cool. Says much better economy and a bit more power, I think.
Likewise, would be good to get the initial dead feel of the throttle changed. It needs a proper prodding to rev match on the down change.
Likewise, would be good to get the initial dead feel of the throttle changed. It needs a proper prodding to rev match on the down change.
Krhuangbin said:
Is supposed to go some way to overcoming the mechanical drawbacks of the heavy flywheel and single plate clutch
I first spent money on a twin plate clutch and lighter flywheel, before thinking about more exhaust noise.
That change really transforms the driving pleasure.
- Clutch pedal is so much lighter to operate.
- Bite point is far more gradual.
- Lighter flywheel helps responsiveness.
- Rev matching for downshifts is easier.
- Greater friction material area, will provide longer clutch life.
Dewi 2 said:
Krhuangbin said:
Is supposed to go some way to overcoming the mechanical drawbacks of the heavy flywheel and single plate clutch
I first spent money on a twin plate clutch and lighter flywheel, before thinking about more exhaust noise.
That change really transforms the driving pleasure.
- Clutch pedal is so much lighter to operate.
- Bite point is far more gradual.
- Lighter flywheel helps responsiveness.
- Rev matching for downshifts is easier.
- Greater friction material area, will provide longer clutch life.
which makes no sense as the twin plate /lightweight is only marginally more. But that’s what I bought, and it only has now 5k miles on those new parts and can’t justify £3k + to replace barely worn bits. Maybe I should “accidentally” do 100 full bore launches this summer …
Edited by Krhuangbin on Thursday 20th April 20:58
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