Discussion
This is a weird thing to happen. Sometimes when we go out my partner and myself both carry our DB 12 keys with us and since last weekend, the car won’t start. There is something on the app which provides a deactivating device and active. But even when it shows Active, it won’t start. So it takes one of use to drive or walk away for a fair way, and take a key, so that the car starts.
Also anyone had a pipping sound from the driveshafts - ours is at the front when turning left or right - AM are aware of this issue
Also anyone had a pipping sound from the driveshafts - ours is at the front when turning left or right - AM are aware of this issue
Kind of sorted the issue with the key. Happened again Friday and last night.
Read up online that it may be a sensor issue when pressing the brake pedal - advises you to press it harder and it worked. We spend an hour splitting ourselves up with our own keys and seeing if that was an issue but it wasn’t. Changed the key batteries today as well just in case.
Car is going in at end of month re the drive shaft issue
Read up online that it may be a sensor issue when pressing the brake pedal - advises you to press it harder and it worked. We spend an hour splitting ourselves up with our own keys and seeing if that was an issue but it wasn’t. Changed the key batteries today as well just in case.
Car is going in at end of month re the drive shaft issue
That key thing is a known pain the car gets confused which one is primary. Walking one key away shouldn't be the fix though. Try using just one key fob and keep the other well away from the car when you start it.
And yeah, the front driveshaft click/pip is a known fault. AM have a bulletin on it some cars need new shafts or just greasing. Get your dealer to log it while it's in.
And yeah, the front driveshaft click/pip is a known fault. AM have a bulletin on it some cars need new shafts or just greasing. Get your dealer to log it while it's in.
I’ve never experienced an issue with two keys in my DB12.
But driveshaft, yeah – I had mine replaced in April. I had heard a nasty sounding noise from the driveshaft (more like a scrape than a pop) and the engine light came on. It happened again soon after. Then it didn’t happen again at all but my engine light was stuck on thereafter. Guy in AM said the light was due to misfire detection. I had a few random engine lights in the past – I wonder was it the same kind of issue. Anyway, sorted now. My DB12 is Jan 2024, not sure if early cars are affected more.
But driveshaft, yeah – I had mine replaced in April. I had heard a nasty sounding noise from the driveshaft (more like a scrape than a pop) and the engine light came on. It happened again soon after. Then it didn’t happen again at all but my engine light was stuck on thereafter. Guy in AM said the light was due to misfire detection. I had a few random engine lights in the past – I wonder was it the same kind of issue. Anyway, sorted now. My DB12 is Jan 2024, not sure if early cars are affected more.
atrossity said:
I ve never experienced an issue with two keys in my DB12.
But driveshaft, yeah I had mine replaced in April. I had heard a nasty sounding noise from the driveshaft (more like a scrape than a pop) and the engine light came on. It happened again soon after. Then it didn t happen again at all but my engine light was stuck on thereafter. Guy in AM said the light was due to misfire detection. I had a few random engine lights in the past I wonder was it the same kind of issue. Anyway, sorted now. My DB12 is Jan 2024, not sure if early cars are affected more.
So a dodgy propshaft is a misfire. That's as good as confusing a spark plug with a torque converter.But driveshaft, yeah I had mine replaced in April. I had heard a nasty sounding noise from the driveshaft (more like a scrape than a pop) and the engine light came on. It happened again soon after. Then it didn t happen again at all but my engine light was stuck on thereafter. Guy in AM said the light was due to misfire detection. I had a few random engine lights in the past I wonder was it the same kind of issue. Anyway, sorted now. My DB12 is Jan 2024, not sure if early cars are affected more.
There could be two separate issues being referenced in this thread. Probably needs its own thread as it's nothing to do with keys!
The first is a metallic clicking/clunking issue when going from forwards to reverse and also when taking corners. Sudden acceleration (throttle input) and braking can also induce the click/clunk. This is to do with improper lubrication between the mating surfaces of the rear axel/propshaft and wheel hub. To my knowledge that is the fix, although I am wondering in some cases if parts need to be replaced due to a manufacturing issue.
From another forum there is a Service Bulletin apparently about this: Service Bulletin SB-06-1006V3 for a 2026 Vantage. I am not sure what the details of this SB are.
Mine was lubricated (twice) and has greatly improved. This is apparently the standard fix & was used on DB11. I am still trying to determine whether AM recommend any parts to be replaced with the current lineup of cars.
The second is a Check Engine Light coming on and cutting power by deactivating cylinders to protect the engine. I am advised that this is to do with an overly sensitive calibration of the knock sensors. This is usually fixed by updated software. However, in some cases, it appears that a faulty driveshaft can cause the issue - which in turn causes vibrations that are somehow picked up by the knock sensors. The driveshaft runout needs to be checked in this case. Most people I know of have had a sofware update and all was good.
The first is a metallic clicking/clunking issue when going from forwards to reverse and also when taking corners. Sudden acceleration (throttle input) and braking can also induce the click/clunk. This is to do with improper lubrication between the mating surfaces of the rear axel/propshaft and wheel hub. To my knowledge that is the fix, although I am wondering in some cases if parts need to be replaced due to a manufacturing issue.
From another forum there is a Service Bulletin apparently about this: Service Bulletin SB-06-1006V3 for a 2026 Vantage. I am not sure what the details of this SB are.
Mine was lubricated (twice) and has greatly improved. This is apparently the standard fix & was used on DB11. I am still trying to determine whether AM recommend any parts to be replaced with the current lineup of cars.
The second is a Check Engine Light coming on and cutting power by deactivating cylinders to protect the engine. I am advised that this is to do with an overly sensitive calibration of the knock sensors. This is usually fixed by updated software. However, in some cases, it appears that a faulty driveshaft can cause the issue - which in turn causes vibrations that are somehow picked up by the knock sensors. The driveshaft runout needs to be checked in this case. Most people I know of have had a sofware update and all was good.
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