Mk2 Toyota MR2 - reliable?
Discussion
Thinking of selling the MX5 this year (
) because I can't justify increasing the power.
Would a good Mk2 MR2 (potentially Turbo) be a reliable motor? Anything to look out for?
My MX5 has been bullet-proof apart from one clutch slave.
What are the chances of finding an MR2 that has not had the 'wickid' treatment?
) because I can't justify increasing the power.Would a good Mk2 MR2 (potentially Turbo) be a reliable motor? Anything to look out for?
My MX5 has been bullet-proof apart from one clutch slave.
What are the chances of finding an MR2 that has not had the 'wickid' treatment?
groomi said:
A standard N/A Mk2 MR2 si bombproof. The Turbos are slightly more fragile, but usually because they've been meddled with.
Key is to find a standard one (or a modded one that's been enginneered thoroughly).
What sort of power output am I looking at with a standard one?Key is to find a standard one (or a modded one that's been enginneered thoroughly).
ETA - just noticed, do these have a useable boot space?
Edited by Legend83 on Tuesday 19th January 11:01
Our old '91 car produced 158bhp IIRC, not sure whether later ones produced any more than that.
Boot space is surprisingly good for the type of car. Easily get a couple of medium holdalls in the boot, another under the bonnet with the space saver spare and there are a good number of cubby holes in the cockpit.
Boot space is surprisingly good for the type of car. Easily get a couple of medium holdalls in the boot, another under the bonnet with the space saver spare and there are a good number of cubby holes in the cockpit.
Legend83 said:
What sort of power output am I looking at with a standard one?
ETA - just noticed, do these have a useable boot space?
Yes they have a perfectly useable boot behind the engine. Just don't ever put frozen food in there as it will come back most certainly unfrozen even on the shortest journies. I live less than a mile from a Sainsburys and never managed to salvage any ice cream I had purchased! ETA - just noticed, do these have a useable boot space?
Edited by Legend83 on Tuesday 19th January 11:01
As for power output it depends on the year and 'revision'. When I had mine Revision 3's were the ones to have as they had better turbos than Rev1 or Rev2 cars; It should be possible to get Rev4 or Rev5 cars now which will have even better turbos etc.
I believe the rev1 and 2 are supposed to make about 200bhp, and the rev3 onwards is something like 220bhp, but tuneable to stupid amounts. 600bhp was a figure I heard bandied about a lot. And that is very high for a 2l four banger...
MarJay said:
Yes they have a perfectly useable boot behind the engine. Just don't ever put frozen food in there as it will come back most certainly unfrozen even on the shortest journies. I live less than a mile from a Sainsburys and never managed to salvage any ice cream I had purchased!
I went on a jaunt to Brugge in the Boxster and bought a large amount of Belgian chocolates whilst there. Foolishly, I put them in the rear boot without thinking - when we returned there was just one massive lump of expensive Belgian chocolate
groomi said:
Our old '91 car produced 158bhp IIRC, not sure whether later ones produced any more than that.
Boot space is surprisingly good for the type of car. Easily get a couple of medium holdalls in the boot, another under the bonnet with the space saver spare and there are a good number of cubby holes in the cockpit.
Thats an NA car, my Revision 5 NA car made 170bhp ish.Boot space is surprisingly good for the type of car. Easily get a couple of medium holdalls in the boot, another under the bonnet with the space saver spare and there are a good number of cubby holes in the cockpit.
Some very very early NA cars only made about 110bhp, and they didn't come with a spoiler either...
N/A Rev 3 is bombproof 172BHP and a deep but narrow boot, loved mine and the OH now has a Rev2.
If you search in the JapChat forum there is a very similar thread that was quite recent. They often have a problem with the oil light staying on due to sensor failure and the fact the sensor is a complete arse to replace, they can be a bit awkward to work on and require good tyres in the wet and Rev 1 & 2 are more snappy than Rev 3 and onwards.
If you can stretch to a Rev 5 you will get closer to 200bhp and VVT-i but even the older ones are still quick enough, and can keep touch with a fair amount of newer cars through the twisties.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Found It
If you search in the JapChat forum there is a very similar thread that was quite recent. They often have a problem with the oil light staying on due to sensor failure and the fact the sensor is a complete arse to replace, they can be a bit awkward to work on and require good tyres in the wet and Rev 1 & 2 are more snappy than Rev 3 and onwards.
If you can stretch to a Rev 5 you will get closer to 200bhp and VVT-i but even the older ones are still quick enough, and can keep touch with a fair amount of newer cars through the twisties.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Found It
Edited by omgus on Tuesday 19th January 11:21
I owned one for quite a while.
225hp for mk1 and mk2
245hp for mk3 onwards (about 1994 -)
Get the later version if you can. Revisions included:
Oil catch tank
Better brakes (Noticeably so)
Better internal oil jets and I think revised oil ways
Metal head gasket (these can blow on the earlier ones if you wind the wick up too much)
Diff turbo (CT26 vs older CT20b) which spooled quicker and boosted higher.
Bigger injectors (550 vs 430) I think
MAP sensor (older cars had Aif Flow Meter)
Electric ariels tend to break (strips plastic drive)
Targa seals can leak (but easily fixed with silicone)
If you're unlucky, the cooling pipes (run the lenght of the car) can crack, but this is v rare.
As said, they are fairly bomb proof if looked after, even the modified ones.
Handling can be fun in the wet...
225hp for mk1 and mk2
245hp for mk3 onwards (about 1994 -)
Get the later version if you can. Revisions included:
Oil catch tank
Better brakes (Noticeably so)
Better internal oil jets and I think revised oil ways
Metal head gasket (these can blow on the earlier ones if you wind the wick up too much)
Diff turbo (CT26 vs older CT20b) which spooled quicker and boosted higher.
Bigger injectors (550 vs 430) I think
MAP sensor (older cars had Aif Flow Meter)
Electric ariels tend to break (strips plastic drive)
Targa seals can leak (but easily fixed with silicone)
If you're unlucky, the cooling pipes (run the lenght of the car) can crack, but this is v rare.
As said, they are fairly bomb proof if looked after, even the modified ones.
Handling can be fun in the wet...
The guy that bought my Rev1 n/a MR2 off me said he was only replacing his last one as it had done 300k miles on the original engine and the bodywork was rusting through. He took me out for a drive in it and it still felt well screwed together, although the engine needed a little persuasion to start. Still pulled fantastic.
Mine had done 108k by this point and drove perfectly.
Mine had done 108k by this point and drove perfectly.
Edited by Deluded on Tuesday 19th January 11:30
Legend83 said:
Thinking of selling the MX5 this year () because I can't justify increasing the power.
Would a good Mk2 MR2 (potentially Turbo) be a reliable motor? Anything to look out for?
My MX5 has been bullet-proof apart from one clutch slave.
What are the chances of finding an MR2 that has not had the 'wickid' treatment?
There are a fair few around which haven't been barried, you just need to keep an eye out.) because I can't justify increasing the power.Would a good Mk2 MR2 (potentially Turbo) be a reliable motor? Anything to look out for?
My MX5 has been bullet-proof apart from one clutch slave.
What are the chances of finding an MR2 that has not had the 'wickid' treatment?
I've owned a Revision 3 Turbo(241hp stock) for the last 20months, covering 14,000 miles in that time.
I've spent about £400 on servicing(done myself) and maintenance(including a cambelt change) and roughly £500 in repairs. The repairs were replacement shock absorbers, springs and topmounts(fitted myself) and a repeated alternator failure which was traced back to a wiring fault.
Other than that its been the most reliable car I've owned. Never failed to start and never let me down. Gets about 25mpg on daily driving, 30mpg on the motorway. Its comfortable(the seats are great), goes well and handles well.
It was standard bar a backbox when I bought it, I've added a decat and an ARC airbox. Last time it was on the dyno it made 285hp and 265lb/ft. I've also added a boost controller since then, and will be fitting a chargecooler from the Celica GT4 and having it remapped, which should easily tip me over 300 reliable horses
E-one said:
Cactussed said:
Diff turbo (CT26 vs older CT20b) which spooled quicker and boosted higher.
Its the other way round mate, CT26 was on the rev 1/2, CT20b on the rev 3 on.The CT20 on Rev3+ cars spools slightly later, but can supply 1.2bar+ to the redline.
they are like any other car, if ya buy a decent well looked after one and continue to look after it yourself you should have only minimal bother, had mine nearly 2 years now and have not had any trouble at all apart from the timing belt being done and thats just standard servicing really. just get used to cruising when its raining, but in the dry there is only one word......epic!
remember get a good one!!!
remember get a good one!!!
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