hi rx7 useing small amount of coolant, help
Discussion
Aubec said:
You need to fill the bottle on the front left of the bay as well - the white one with the long plastic 'ladder' dipstick.
Mine never had any in that one, Pip at WGT always told me to disregard any coolant level other than the main one on the block. You should be able to see the top of the coolant in there.If the light is coming on all the time then you have a problem somewhere, either a water seal or a leak somewhere, get it looked at before it over heats.
can you hear a ticking when you switch it off ? you may need to do what they call the champagne test to see if a seal has gone , i would do it sooner than later if you leave it you will crack a housing or rotor . look on any of the rx7 sites and they will tell you how to do it and prob have a video of what to look for . good luck
I had the same problem, the plastic pipe at the water pump had corroded away and small amounts whre leaking out. Resulting on it eating away at the cable and fuse beneath, linked to the coolant light making it flash up and scream every so often. I replaced both rad pipes and problem was sorted.
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There is a specialist in your neck of the woods but can't remember for the life of me what they are called, if you ask on MRC someone will point you in the right direction.
If the alarm/light dissapears after you add water then it is definatley losing water from somewhere.
There is a specialist in your neck of the woods but can't remember for the life of me what they are called, if you ask on MRC someone will point you in the right direction.
If the alarm/light dissapears after you add water then it is definatley losing water from somewhere.
Don't fill the plastic tank by the drivers side headlight, this is just an overflow, fill it from the centre point as you have been doing.
First thing to do is change the 2 rad caps, one on the AST & one at the filler point. They are just a Generic Jap fitment with a 0.9 Bar relief pressure & are available from most Auto factors.
Next thing to do is obviously check for leaks, you could be losing water aroung the Turbo's & it's evaporating before you see it.
The Best thing to do is use a coolant pressure Tester either borrow one or Most Local Garages should be able to carry out a Coolant system test.
If the Coolant system is not holding pressure & you cannot see any visable leaks then you are loosing water inside the engine, almost certainly through the Water seals. The repair for this is engine out & rebuild unfortunatly.
Hope this is of some help.
Out of intrest what sort of miles has the car done & do you know if it has been rebuilt before?
First thing to do is change the 2 rad caps, one on the AST & one at the filler point. They are just a Generic Jap fitment with a 0.9 Bar relief pressure & are available from most Auto factors.
Next thing to do is obviously check for leaks, you could be losing water aroung the Turbo's & it's evaporating before you see it.
The Best thing to do is use a coolant pressure Tester either borrow one or Most Local Garages should be able to carry out a Coolant system test.
If the Coolant system is not holding pressure & you cannot see any visable leaks then you are loosing water inside the engine, almost certainly through the Water seals. The repair for this is engine out & rebuild unfortunatly.
Hope this is of some help.
Out of intrest what sort of miles has the car done & do you know if it has been rebuilt before?
lum90 said:
Don't fill the plastic tank by the drivers side headlight, this is just an overflow, fill it from the centre point as you have been doing.
First thing to do is change the 2 rad caps, one on the AST & one at the filler point. They are just a Generic Jap fitment with a 0.9 Bar relief pressure & are available from most Auto factors.
Next thing to do is obviously check for leaks, you could be losing water aroung the Turbo's & it's evaporating before you see it.
The Best thing to do is use a coolant pressure Tester either borrow one or Most Local Garages should be able to carry out a Coolant system test.
If the Coolant system is not holding pressure & you cannot see any visable leaks then you are loosing water inside the engine, almost certainly through the Water seals. The repair for this is engine out & rebuild unfortunatly.
Hope this is of some help.
Out of intrest what sort of miles has the car done & do you know if it has been rebuilt before?
If he was loosing water through the engine I am sure he would notice the smoke out of the exhaust and decrease in performance as well as it not starting. I would say its a small leak somewhere tbh.First thing to do is change the 2 rad caps, one on the AST & one at the filler point. They are just a Generic Jap fitment with a 0.9 Bar relief pressure & are available from most Auto factors.
Next thing to do is obviously check for leaks, you could be losing water aroung the Turbo's & it's evaporating before you see it.
The Best thing to do is use a coolant pressure Tester either borrow one or Most Local Garages should be able to carry out a Coolant system test.
If the Coolant system is not holding pressure & you cannot see any visable leaks then you are loosing water inside the engine, almost certainly through the Water seals. The repair for this is engine out & rebuild unfortunatly.
Hope this is of some help.
Out of intrest what sort of miles has the car done & do you know if it has been rebuilt before?
Not necessarily mate.
First signs of water seal failure is for the coolant buzzer to start coming on randomly, caused by a mixture of coolant leaking into the housings & the coolant system becoming pressurised & sending to much coolant back into the overflow bottle by the headlight.
It normally starts off like that & gets progresivly worse with excessive white smoke on cold start up followed by trouble starting (often starts on just 1 rotor initially) I've never known of anybody noticing a loss in performance due to water seal failure!
This is exactlly how it happened on mine. Eventually leading to it not starting at all.
Hopefully though this isn't the OP's problem & it'll be something minor!
First signs of water seal failure is for the coolant buzzer to start coming on randomly, caused by a mixture of coolant leaking into the housings & the coolant system becoming pressurised & sending to much coolant back into the overflow bottle by the headlight.
It normally starts off like that & gets progresivly worse with excessive white smoke on cold start up followed by trouble starting (often starts on just 1 rotor initially) I've never known of anybody noticing a loss in performance due to water seal failure!
This is exactlly how it happened on mine. Eventually leading to it not starting at all.
Hopefully though this isn't the OP's problem & it'll be something minor!
lum90 said:
Not necessarily mate.
First signs of water seal failure is for the coolant buzzer to start coming on randomly, caused by a mixture of coolant leaking into the housings & the coolant system becoming pressurised & sending to much coolant back into the overflow bottle by the headlight.
It normally starts off like that & gets progresivly worse with excessive white smoke on cold start up followed by trouble starting (often starts on just 1 rotor initially) I've never known of anybody noticing a loss in performance due to water seal failure!
This is exactlly how it happened on mine. Eventually leading to it not starting at all.
Hopefully though this isn't the OP's problem & it'll be something minor!
I had the water buzzer problem, it was related to the plastic connection at the water pump. Water had leaked from that slowly and affected the surrounding wires causing the issue with the buzzer (horrible) Anyway as you say hopefully it is not the water seals.First signs of water seal failure is for the coolant buzzer to start coming on randomly, caused by a mixture of coolant leaking into the housings & the coolant system becoming pressurised & sending to much coolant back into the overflow bottle by the headlight.
It normally starts off like that & gets progresivly worse with excessive white smoke on cold start up followed by trouble starting (often starts on just 1 rotor initially) I've never known of anybody noticing a loss in performance due to water seal failure!
This is exactlly how it happened on mine. Eventually leading to it not starting at all.
Hopefully though this isn't the OP's problem & it'll be something minor!
I had a similar issue. Turned out to be a very small hole in the hose at the back of the intake manifold. The system wasn't losing coolant as the (cold) level of the overflow bottle would rise each time I had to refill. What was happening was that air was being drawn in as the system cooled after a hard run.
Not necessarily saying this is your problem, lum's points are all possibilities too, and probably more likely than mine, but it is something else to consider.
Also, be careful to keep an eye on your water temps, if you are losing coolant you don't want the engine getting too hot and warping components as this will make for a more costly rebuild.
Not necessarily saying this is your problem, lum's points are all possibilities too, and probably more likely than mine, but it is something else to consider.
Also, be careful to keep an eye on your water temps, if you are losing coolant you don't want the engine getting too hot and warping components as this will make for a more costly rebuild.
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