Advice on strange steering related problems with my P1

[Lrchorne]

Does anyone have a P1 and had a problem with the steering? I have just had Micheldever tyres put two new fronts on, do the tracking and swap a slightly dented (inner rim) alloy from the front to the back. However, under acceleration around 55-70mph the steering wheel wobbles but only slightly. The steering feels lighter than I remember and i would like a bit more feel. Also, with this slight wobble factor, i have noticed that i can move the wheel left to right a small amount when going straight at it has no effect on where the car is going.
In other words, around the straight-ahead the steering feel is at its worst and hard acceleration generates an unpleasant wobble/vibration inn the steering wheel.
Two separate garages, including a main dealer, have told me the front end/bearings etc are all tight and there is no play so I am stumped. I want to have the 100% direct and fantastic steering back that i remember - any input would be greatly received as this is not confidence inspiring.
That said, the new Toyo tyres are nice and grippy!

Cheers

[flatfour1]

sounds like the concentricity of the rims on the hubs is out. See if you can get some spiggot rings then replace the rims and see if it helps. or it could be as simple as the rims have rotated inside the tyres due to the slippy stuff they use to get the tyres on the rims and put the new tyres out of balance.

Edited by flatfour1 on Monday 11th May 15:29

[Lrchorne]

Thanks for that, I shall investigate that as an option. I cannopt believe that Micheldever tyres would have made a mistake with the slippy stuff they use, they are widely regarded as the best people out there. But I have to admit, I asked them to do the tracking and the steering wheel is still slightly not straight.
Any ideas why it is still offset left? Maybe a sticky brake calliper?

[ScoobieWRX]

The steering wheel isn't straight because it wasn't set absolutely straight ahead on the ramps before the engine was switched off. I always insist i drive the car onto the ramps myself prior to adjusting the tracking because i know my car and know exactly when the steering wheel is straight ahead and in the center of any play there might be in the rack or at any of the ball joints/track rod ends. When they put their steering wheel lock on to keep the wheel center for when they adjust tracking just make sure for yourself the wheel looks absolutely dead straight.

To make the steering a bit heavier with more feel and less understeer/better turn-in dial in some negative camber to the front geometry. I've got as much negative camber as i can dial in from the std camber bolts on the front struts of my WRX and it made a huge difference.

As for your steering wobbling it could be a dodgy wheel not perfectly round or slightly warped due to a heavy kurbing impact, or the tyre needs to be taken off the rim and re-fitted and balanced to make sure it's not the tyre fitting that when wrong.

HTH

[Lrchorne]

I think you might be right about the wheels. I spoke with someone who said try changing the wheels and see what it is like with someone else's wheels on.
I may take it back to the tyre place and drive it on to the ramp myself. Also Cheam Motors told me that it needs the full geometry setup which costs £120 so i might book it in to have the full prodrive 4 wheel setup and see how that changes things.

I like your understated 370bhp wagon!! I had a Mk1 wagon before and actually prefer quick estates to normal cars. Current RS4 and orginial Rs6 avants are my favourtes.

[ScoobieWRX]

The audi's are lovely and sooo quick but lots of money compared to a scoobywagon. So the scoobywagon isn't as posh or quite as well put together inside as the Audi, but with a few well chosen engine mods it will definately keep up on the twisties although the Audi will still have the legs on a motorway dash.

360bhp is just another stepping stone onto much bigger power. I'm hoping the next lot of dosh spent will net another 100bhp to 150bhp but when that happens i will have to upgrade the brakes again and sort the handling out properly this time.

It's only money

Good luck sorting your P1

[Lrchorne]

I like the attitude - its only money. I have kept my P1 stock as it should be worth more as a genuine 2 owner from new car, but getting bored with the noise so have changed the P1 backbox for a Hayward and Scott. Still VERY quiet as the engine is loud, so thinking about a de-silenced mid section which should make it MOT able but noisier! It's hard to get rid of the modd'ing bug entirely.

You going for Prodrive brakes? I have the 330mm P1 conversion, only problem is Subaru are Robbers and a new set are £650 for the discs alone, without pads and labour! Not looking forward to changing them which is coming soon...

Drive carefully and good luck with the mods, look out for a P1 with freshly painted front and rear bumpers in 4 weeks' time!!

[ScoobieWRX]

If i had the money right now i would be going for the K-Sport 8-pot/6-pot front/rear combination with performance friction pads, proper stoppers for not a huge amount of cash in the grand scheme of things, and a change of wheels to 18" 10J rims to accomodate the bigger rotors/calipers.

I always drive safe

PS...You should get through emissions testing at MOT time with just one CAT in situ.

Edited by ScoobieWRX on Wednesday 13th May 14:41