Direct Access Update
Discussion
Well after a week of tuition I failed my test on friday.
I was struggling with the u-turn all week and only really started to get the hang of it the morning before the test. It wasnt a surprise that I failed on it. The examiner took me to quite a narrow road and I didnt get the bike round in time so I had to put my foot down.
Will have to wait untill payday before a retest becomes an option
I was struggling with the u-turn all week and only really started to get the hang of it the morning before the test. It wasnt a surprise that I failed on it. The examiner took me to quite a narrow road and I didnt get the bike round in time so I had to put my foot down.
Will have to wait untill payday before a retest becomes an option

Dont worry about it. I didn't pass until my THIRD attempt!
re U turn, my philosophy for the test is as follows:
a)Never start to turn until you have the clutch slipping properly
b)If the bike starts to go over, ease the clutch out slowly - it's lack of speed thats making it unstable
c)If it starts to fall over, my knee will touch the tarmac before my foot does.
Good luck for next time.
Dave
PS Get your instructor to book the test now - you have to wait 10 working days before rebooking but your instructor can book for you under the riding school name. On both occasions I had to wait 3 weeks before my next test, so get it booked and pay your instructor when you get paid.
re U turn, my philosophy for the test is as follows:
a)Never start to turn until you have the clutch slipping properly
b)If the bike starts to go over, ease the clutch out slowly - it's lack of speed thats making it unstable
c)If it starts to fall over, my knee will touch the tarmac before my foot does.
Good luck for next time.
Dave
PS Get your instructor to book the test now - you have to wait 10 working days before rebooking but your instructor can book for you under the riding school name. On both occasions I had to wait 3 weeks before my next test, so get it booked and pay your instructor when you get paid.
My tip, for what it's worth, is to lean the bike towards the inside of the u-turn, which means you have to balance it by sitting towards the edge of the seat that nearer the outside of the turn.
This seems to make the bike more stable.
A bike will always corner better with some lean angle, even very low speed turns. Just try it once or twice.
Best of luck!
This seems to make the bike more stable.
A bike will always corner better with some lean angle, even very low speed turns. Just try it once or twice.
Best of luck!
I fell off my bike doing the same thing, a week before my test.
On the test, I did the best u-turn I'd ever done.
The knack is that just as you think you need to put your foot down, to accelerate.
But it's difficult to remember that, as you think you're going to fall over.
You'll get there and just in time for the summer!
On the test, I did the best u-turn I'd ever done.
The knack is that just as you think you need to put your foot down, to accelerate.
But it's difficult to remember that, as you think you're going to fall over.
You'll get there and just in time for the summer!
When instructed to make the U turn take 20 seconds to compose yourself, ensure the road is absolutely dead before moving off. Relax and remember what you've been taught.
80% of the U turn is where the eyes are looking. Prior to moving off - when you do your all round observations - pick a point 25 to 75 meters down the road as a focus point.
After you've done the lifesaver and committed the bike to turning, get your eyes up on the focus point. The bike will then turn more naturally.
The remaining 20% is machine control and body position.
Get the motor spinning and slipping away on the clutch, as the right handlebar comes closer to the body the tendency is to close the throttle - you must 'drive' through the U turn. Control the progress of the bike with the clutch and drag the back brake to load the transmission.
Momentum is important, stability is gained from the gyroscopic effect of the wheels. Below walking speed and the bike is all wibbly wobbly, get the wheels turning above walking speed and the bike stabilised before commiting to the turn.
Remain loose on the bike, sometimes if you lean forward at the waist by a few degrees stability increases.
If you still can't 'click' with the U turn go and use some mini roundabouts, you'll find that the radius of the curve is very similar to a U turn, however because the eyes are focussing on the appropriate exit getting the bike to turn is not an issue. Thus proving that 80% of the task is where you are looking.
Good luck with the retest.
STU
DAS Instructor.
80% of the U turn is where the eyes are looking. Prior to moving off - when you do your all round observations - pick a point 25 to 75 meters down the road as a focus point.
After you've done the lifesaver and committed the bike to turning, get your eyes up on the focus point. The bike will then turn more naturally.
The remaining 20% is machine control and body position.
Get the motor spinning and slipping away on the clutch, as the right handlebar comes closer to the body the tendency is to close the throttle - you must 'drive' through the U turn. Control the progress of the bike with the clutch and drag the back brake to load the transmission.
Momentum is important, stability is gained from the gyroscopic effect of the wheels. Below walking speed and the bike is all wibbly wobbly, get the wheels turning above walking speed and the bike stabilised before commiting to the turn.
Remain loose on the bike, sometimes if you lean forward at the waist by a few degrees stability increases.
If you still can't 'click' with the U turn go and use some mini roundabouts, you'll find that the radius of the curve is very similar to a U turn, however because the eyes are focussing on the appropriate exit getting the bike to turn is not an issue. Thus proving that 80% of the task is where you are looking.
Good luck with the retest.
STU
DAS Instructor.
Forums | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



