Where to find a new steering column?
Discussion
Hi,
The universal joints of the steering column of my Chimaera (with power steering) seem to be worn out. Anyone an idea where I could get a full replacement of the complete steering column including universal joints? Would like to avoid ordering universal joint alone as I cannot figure out which ones to order as there is quite a variety of specs..... It is a left hand drive if this info matters.
Thanks for your input in advance!
Regards
Sven
The universal joints of the steering column of my Chimaera (with power steering) seem to be worn out. Anyone an idea where I could get a full replacement of the complete steering column including universal joints? Would like to avoid ordering universal joint alone as I cannot figure out which ones to order as there is quite a variety of specs..... It is a left hand drive if this info matters.
Thanks for your input in advance!
Regards
Sven
What's telling you they are worn out?
Can you see play in them? Are they stiff?
I doubt you'd find a full column kit, and if you did it'll be in parts that you would need to assemble.
If it's the UJs, there are only three to choose from (provided you have the factory fitted set up), and they are quite easy to see which is which.
Short (approximately 80mm overall length) with small to small hole at the end to fit onto the splined shafts - 9/16" diameter hole
Short with small to large (9/16" and ¾")
Long (approximately 105mm overall length) with small to large
The method to get them out is technically easy but not necessarily a quick job, and getting the UJs off can be a fight because they might be quite well rusted onto the shafts.
You basically undo the nut/bolts on both sides of the UJ, then it can be good to use something like a small pry bar to try to very slightly open them (this may not be a visible result). It is then a matter of prying on the end of the shaft between the two UJs to try to get that loose.
After that, you will most likely need to undo the bolts holding the steering rack onto the chassis, as there will probably not be enough movement to release the shaft from the UJs. Again, an imperial socket (maybe ½" I can't remember)
From there you can get the UJs off, and actually that's the hardest part.
At this point ,if you're convinced the UJs are the problem, you can identify which ones you have, and order new ones.
Be sure to get the right ones - I had initially found one on Carbuilder that looked to be the right size in terms of length and splined hole diameter, but it didn't have a full enough range of working movement. I have only found the right ones through our TVR supplier folk - Racetech Firect, Motaclan, Powers Performance, TVRSSW. And yes they all charge the same amount.
Can you see play in them? Are they stiff?
I doubt you'd find a full column kit, and if you did it'll be in parts that you would need to assemble.
If it's the UJs, there are only three to choose from (provided you have the factory fitted set up), and they are quite easy to see which is which.
Short (approximately 80mm overall length) with small to small hole at the end to fit onto the splined shafts - 9/16" diameter hole
Short with small to large (9/16" and ¾")
Long (approximately 105mm overall length) with small to large
The method to get them out is technically easy but not necessarily a quick job, and getting the UJs off can be a fight because they might be quite well rusted onto the shafts.
You basically undo the nut/bolts on both sides of the UJ, then it can be good to use something like a small pry bar to try to very slightly open them (this may not be a visible result). It is then a matter of prying on the end of the shaft between the two UJs to try to get that loose.
After that, you will most likely need to undo the bolts holding the steering rack onto the chassis, as there will probably not be enough movement to release the shaft from the UJs. Again, an imperial socket (maybe ½" I can't remember)
From there you can get the UJs off, and actually that's the hardest part.
At this point ,if you're convinced the UJs are the problem, you can identify which ones you have, and order new ones.
Be sure to get the right ones - I had initially found one on Carbuilder that looked to be the right size in terms of length and splined hole diameter, but it didn't have a full enough range of working movement. I have only found the right ones through our TVR supplier folk - Racetech Firect, Motaclan, Powers Performance, TVRSSW. And yes they all charge the same amount.
From memory, the steering column doesn't have a UJ besides a ball shaped UJ below the steering wheel for tilt adjustment, and I doubt that would fail.
The top halve of the steering column is Cavalier mk3/ Opel Vectra A, (tilt type, as most were non tilt) and TVR specific lower halve if that helps. You would have to assemble one yourself.
I doubt there would be any difference between the rhd and lhd.
The top halve of the steering column is Cavalier mk3/ Opel Vectra A, (tilt type, as most were non tilt) and TVR specific lower halve if that helps. You would have to assemble one yourself.
I doubt there would be any difference between the rhd and lhd.
PabloGee said:
What's telling you they are worn out?
Can you see play in them? Are they stiff?
I doubt you'd find a full column kit, and if you did it'll be in parts that you would need to assemble.
If it's the UJs, there are only three to choose from (provided you have the factory fitted set up), and they are quite easy to see which is which.
Short (approximately 80mm overall length) with small to small hole at the end to fit onto the splined shafts - 9/16" diameter hole
Short with small to large (9/16" and ¾")
Long (approximately 105mm overall length) with small to large
The method to get them out is technically easy but not necessarily a quick job, and getting the UJs off can be a fight because they might be quite well rusted onto the shafts.
You basically undo the nut/bolts on both sides of the UJ, then it can be good to use something like a small pry bar to try to very slightly open them (this may not be a visible result). It is then a matter of prying on the end of the shaft between the two UJs to try to get that loose.
After that, you will most likely need to undo the bolts holding the steering rack onto the chassis, as there will probably not be enough movement to release the shaft from the UJs. Again, an imperial socket (maybe ½" I can't remember)
From there you can get the UJs off, and actually that's the hardest part.
At this point ,if you're convinced the UJs are the problem, you can identify which ones you have, and order new ones.
Be sure to get the right ones - I had initially found one on Carbuilder that looked to be the right size in terms of length and splined hole diameter, but it didn't have a full enough range of working movement. I have only found the right ones through our TVR supplier folk - Racetech Firect, Motaclan, Powers Performance, TVRSSW. And yes they all charge the same amount.
This is a very good explanation of how to get the UJ s off. Can you see play in them? Are they stiff?
I doubt you'd find a full column kit, and if you did it'll be in parts that you would need to assemble.
If it's the UJs, there are only three to choose from (provided you have the factory fitted set up), and they are quite easy to see which is which.
Short (approximately 80mm overall length) with small to small hole at the end to fit onto the splined shafts - 9/16" diameter hole
Short with small to large (9/16" and ¾")
Long (approximately 105mm overall length) with small to large
The method to get them out is technically easy but not necessarily a quick job, and getting the UJs off can be a fight because they might be quite well rusted onto the shafts.
You basically undo the nut/bolts on both sides of the UJ, then it can be good to use something like a small pry bar to try to very slightly open them (this may not be a visible result). It is then a matter of prying on the end of the shaft between the two UJs to try to get that loose.
After that, you will most likely need to undo the bolts holding the steering rack onto the chassis, as there will probably not be enough movement to release the shaft from the UJs. Again, an imperial socket (maybe ½" I can't remember)
From there you can get the UJs off, and actually that's the hardest part.
At this point ,if you're convinced the UJs are the problem, you can identify which ones you have, and order new ones.
Be sure to get the right ones - I had initially found one on Carbuilder that looked to be the right size in terms of length and splined hole diameter, but it didn't have a full enough range of working movement. I have only found the right ones through our TVR supplier folk - Racetech Firect, Motaclan, Powers Performance, TVRSSW. And yes they all charge the same amount.
The only thing I d add to this is to first make sure steering wheel is straight and record ( photo ) the positions of each UJ on the splined shafts. The position of the UJ should be in a neutral position relative to the steering to reduce wear so it s very important to re install them in the same position.
Because this is critical to keep the steering wheel in exactly the correct position after re install it s best practice to dot punch or scribe the positions of the UJ relative to shaft as this will make it easy to rebuild and the car run straight without having to mess around with the front geometry after.
Make sure you dot or scribe both the UJ and shaft so you just have to line up the dots when lining them up on the splines.
When my longer 105mm shaft showed signs of binding it was easier to get an engineering company or some TVR centres will re press new UJ into your original casing. I know the later used longer UJ is difficult to source so well worth keeping this in mind.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Sunday 9th August 12:23
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