Discussion
Everything is here
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge
Can't give direct link for the download so you'll need to explore it to find it.
Once you've got rg running I can help you understand what's going on. I'll need a logfile from you. See below
Assessing the 14CUX
1. Plug the 14CUX cable into the loom connector on the car
2. Start RoverGauge software
3. Setup RG options settings as follows
a. COM - COMx (use whatever COM port works for you)
b. Speed - mph
c. Temperature – Celsius
d. Parameters to log – all but not road speed or gear selection
4. Set RoverGauge main screen as follows:
a. MAF – Direct
b. Throttle – Absolute
c. Trim – Short Term
5. Turn on the ignition switch and press ‘connect’ to link 14CUX with your laptop.
6. Preferably start the car from cold.
7. Start logging the data (Start Log F5) and drive the car for 15 minutes on a local roads (eg A or B class to get
varying running conditions) then stop the car and allow the engine to idle for a further 5 to 10 minutes. (DO
NOT TOUCH ANY OF THE CONTROLSAT THIS STAGE)
8. You can now stop logging data by pressing “Stop Log F7”
9. Now click on “long term trim” and make a creenshot (or just note the long term trim values)
10. Send the logfiles (held in a sub folder where RoverGauge is), the long term trim screen shot (or the values) to
me (I will msg you my email address)
Ignition component issues to watch for
1. Plug extenders
a. These break down due to age and heat damage. Best solution is to ditch them entirely, fit ignition
leads with heat socks. They don’t have to be mega expensive Classic Range Rover with angled plug
connectors are perfectly OK.
i. EG: https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/da4104red-disco-...
ignition-lead-set-8mm-includes-king-lead.html
b. In conjunction fit BPR6ES NGK plugs (in place of the standard BP7ES (these are only suited to track
days at high temps and extreme speeds)
2. Cap and rotor arm
a. Theres an awful lot of rubbish out there, buy from trusted sources like John Craddocks
3. Coil and Ignition amp
a. Make sure these not only work well initially but also when they get ‘heat soaked£ as spark can get
weak.
4. Timing marks
a. Check the TDC marks on the bottom pulley are accurate (using a piston stop is best) before you put
entire faith in setting the timing. The outer ring on the bottom pulley is molded to an inner rubber
core that again breaks down with age causing the marker ring to slip round.
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge
Can't give direct link for the download so you'll need to explore it to find it.
Once you've got rg running I can help you understand what's going on. I'll need a logfile from you. See below
Assessing the 14CUX
1. Plug the 14CUX cable into the loom connector on the car
2. Start RoverGauge software
3. Setup RG options settings as follows
a. COM - COMx (use whatever COM port works for you)
b. Speed - mph
c. Temperature – Celsius
d. Parameters to log – all but not road speed or gear selection
4. Set RoverGauge main screen as follows:
a. MAF – Direct
b. Throttle – Absolute
c. Trim – Short Term
5. Turn on the ignition switch and press ‘connect’ to link 14CUX with your laptop.
6. Preferably start the car from cold.
7. Start logging the data (Start Log F5) and drive the car for 15 minutes on a local roads (eg A or B class to get
varying running conditions) then stop the car and allow the engine to idle for a further 5 to 10 minutes. (DO
NOT TOUCH ANY OF THE CONTROLSAT THIS STAGE)
8. You can now stop logging data by pressing “Stop Log F7”
9. Now click on “long term trim” and make a creenshot (or just note the long term trim values)
10. Send the logfiles (held in a sub folder where RoverGauge is), the long term trim screen shot (or the values) to
me (I will msg you my email address)
Ignition component issues to watch for
1. Plug extenders
a. These break down due to age and heat damage. Best solution is to ditch them entirely, fit ignition
leads with heat socks. They don’t have to be mega expensive Classic Range Rover with angled plug
connectors are perfectly OK.
i. EG: https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/da4104red-disco-...
ignition-lead-set-8mm-includes-king-lead.html
b. In conjunction fit BPR6ES NGK plugs (in place of the standard BP7ES (these are only suited to track
days at high temps and extreme speeds)
2. Cap and rotor arm
a. Theres an awful lot of rubbish out there, buy from trusted sources like John Craddocks
3. Coil and Ignition amp
a. Make sure these not only work well initially but also when they get ‘heat soaked£ as spark can get
weak.
4. Timing marks
a. Check the TDC marks on the bottom pulley are accurate (using a piston stop is best) before you put
entire faith in setting the timing. The outer ring on the bottom pulley is molded to an inner rubber
core that again breaks down with age causing the marker ring to slip round.
Edited by blaze_away on Friday 30th May 21:22
Blaze_away,
Thanks for the script and reply, it's much appreciated.
I don't have a lap top, ( tablet kinda person!) - so need to borrow one.
As soon as I'm up and running with one, I'll forward the details as requested.
The car is almost undrivable with the current shunting issues, but was perfectly sorted before storage.
When it was last ok, the MAF had been replaced as the majority cause of the issues (£500 to replace with a genuine Lucas one) - is that "favourite" again after only 400 miles of use since?
Is there a direct contact number I could use for you please?
Kindest regards,
Phil.
Thanks for the script and reply, it's much appreciated.
I don't have a lap top, ( tablet kinda person!) - so need to borrow one.
As soon as I'm up and running with one, I'll forward the details as requested.
The car is almost undrivable with the current shunting issues, but was perfectly sorted before storage.
When it was last ok, the MAF had been replaced as the majority cause of the issues (£500 to replace with a genuine Lucas one) - is that "favourite" again after only 400 miles of use since?
Is there a direct contact number I could use for you please?
Kindest regards,
Phil.
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