Test drove my first TVR today!
Discussion
After much procrastinating i finally went and test drove an N plate Chim today and what an experience! Not particularly adrenaline pumping with me behind the wheel as i was driving it like my Gran but when the owner took over for the return leg he informed me he used to be a rally driver for Rover in the eighties... Jeez are these cars quick! It felt so planted in the corners and when Keni (the owner) made the back end step out on a couple of particularly tight corners it was incredibly progressive!
Now a few questions to your good selves if I may.
The car seems to be in good condition machanicaly, engine idles and revs smoothly, no nasty clunks from the suspension, no slop in the steering, no whine from gearbox or diff. I was a tad concerned by the brakes though... There was a large amount of travel in the pedal where little happened except for a hissing noise, (i'm assuming from the master cylinder) the pedal was almost to the floor before it felt solid but required some effort to slow the car... Is the above normal folks?
Chassis, outriggers, wishbones etc look pretty good (few bits of surface rust here and there but nothing major).
Is there any easy way to tell if it has the sd1 or borg warner gearbox?
The carpets in the car are quite damp and the seller was very upfront about this and the need for these cars to be garaged. How easy (or not) is it to remove the carpets and have them dried or replaced? Is it something i could do or is it a job for a specialist?
Seriously considering buying this now but want to make sure i know all the nitty gritty bits before diving in!
Cheers,
Jonny
Now a few questions to your good selves if I may.
The car seems to be in good condition machanicaly, engine idles and revs smoothly, no nasty clunks from the suspension, no slop in the steering, no whine from gearbox or diff. I was a tad concerned by the brakes though... There was a large amount of travel in the pedal where little happened except for a hissing noise, (i'm assuming from the master cylinder) the pedal was almost to the floor before it felt solid but required some effort to slow the car... Is the above normal folks?
Chassis, outriggers, wishbones etc look pretty good (few bits of surface rust here and there but nothing major).
Is there any easy way to tell if it has the sd1 or borg warner gearbox?
The carpets in the car are quite damp and the seller was very upfront about this and the need for these cars to be garaged. How easy (or not) is it to remove the carpets and have them dried or replaced? Is it something i could do or is it a job for a specialist?
Seriously considering buying this now but want to make sure i know all the nitty gritty bits before diving in!
Cheers,
Jonny
The brakes not having ABS should be able to lock up the fronts if provoked,, straight lines only!
But because they are an old school brake they won't ever feel that great and will require some force but the pedal should feel solid.
Pads and discs might be low but even that should'nt result in a long pedal.
The brakes can be repaired/replaced easily enough so don't let that put you off,
Rally driver, kin hell, welcome to Tvr
Did you select reverse gear,, what way did you push the lever, Borg Warner to the right and down, ( best to touch 5th gear before trying that though
eases selection!
But because they are an old school brake they won't ever feel that great and will require some force but the pedal should feel solid.
Pads and discs might be low but even that should'nt result in a long pedal.
The brakes can be repaired/replaced easily enough so don't let that put you off,
Rally driver, kin hell, welcome to Tvr
Did you select reverse gear,, what way did you push the lever, Borg Warner to the right and down, ( best to touch 5th gear before trying that though
eases selection! Damp, this time of year,, hmm.
Carpets are stuck down with adhesive glue, usually easy to remove
If the roof is water tight then these shouldn't leak much at all, the capets can be wet from water ingress in a couple of places, behind the seats suspect lower seat belt mounting point and possibly through the seat mounting bolts etc,
With a bit of reading and or the skills of a veteran Tvr mechanic these things can be resolved.
The rust spots, where are they.
Carpets are stuck down with adhesive glue, usually easy to remove
If the roof is water tight then these shouldn't leak much at all, the capets can be wet from water ingress in a couple of places, behind the seats suspect lower seat belt mounting point and possibly through the seat mounting bolts etc,
With a bit of reading and or the skills of a veteran Tvr mechanic these things can be resolved.
The rust spots, where are they.
Hi Jon,
I'm at the same end of the country as you and my Griff carpets don't get wet; I've been out in some really wet weather but the car is garaged. However, there are numerous seals and entry points that could be to blame.
The standard brakes should be strong and give good pedal feel but can be locked up if pushed. The system components are not expensive to maintain or replace.
If the body, interior and chassis/suspension are sound the rest may be awkward but it's not rocket science.
Ivor R
I'm at the same end of the country as you and my Griff carpets don't get wet; I've been out in some really wet weather but the car is garaged. However, there are numerous seals and entry points that could be to blame.
The standard brakes should be strong and give good pedal feel but can be locked up if pushed. The system components are not expensive to maintain or replace.
If the body, interior and chassis/suspension are sound the rest may be awkward but it's not rocket science.
Ivor R
The floor mats get the wettest, and just lift out.
The floor mats under the seats also lift out, but you need to unbolt the seats first. Four nuts under the car,
Normal leak places are around the windscreen seal, washer pipes and the brake reservoir.
They can also leak around the hood/Windows.
The floor mats under the seats also lift out, but you need to unbolt the seats first. Four nuts under the car,
Normal leak places are around the windscreen seal, washer pipes and the brake reservoir.
They can also leak around the hood/Windows.
JonnySpeedbump said:
Thanks for the info gents. Much appreciated.
Anyone out there had similar problems with the brakes? Could the hissing noise indicate a faulty diaphragm in the master cylinder?
I think this small diagnostic exercise might help.... run the engine, vacuum will be created in the servo. Turn the engine off and wait.. Servo should retain the vacuum (nice hard pedal). If it does not, then the the servo has lost vacuum (leak somewhere - hoses or diaphragm)... Anyone out there had similar problems with the brakes? Could the hissing noise indicate a faulty diaphragm in the master cylinder?
Even with a vacuum leak I don't think I'd expect the pedal to go nearly to the floor though...
Don't want to be negative but if the car hasn't had any outriggers and there is rust visible then you should probably assume that it will need some. I've just done a body-off on mine and would have sworn blind that the outriggers were fine before I started. I'm not saying don't buy it - just don't assume they are fine - they might well not be.
P.S. Also agree that it sounds like something up with the brakes, most likely servo or master/slave cylinder but should be easily sortable anyway.
P.S. Also agree that it sounds like something up with the brakes, most likely servo or master/slave cylinder but should be easily sortable anyway.
Engine off. Pump the brake pedal several times. Should be solid. With foot pressing on the pedal, start the engine. If the servo is working, the pedal will go down about half way.
A hissing sound from the servo/brake pedal/pedal box area may indicate a leaking servo and with all the water you have, could be a corroded servo unit. Clamp off the servo vacuum pipe and if the noise stops then you know where to look.
A hissing sound from the servo/brake pedal/pedal box area may indicate a leaking servo and with all the water you have, could be a corroded servo unit. Clamp off the servo vacuum pipe and if the noise stops then you know where to look.
From a former chim owner.
I have had 3, could always hear some noise from the master cylinder / servo and not had problems, however as somebody else said they should lock up pretty easy, pedal shouldn't travel far in my opinion, sounds like brakes need a good going over.
Wet carpets can be a pain, they tend to smell musty when dried if they've been damp for a while, loads of places water can get in but it shouldn't if all the seals on the roof, doors, under the bonnet etc are right.
When I bought my last one I jacked it up and had a good poke around with a screwdriver, pay attention around the body mounting plates, my 98 which I sold this year was original outriggers, I scraped them back and gave them a good paint when I bought the car, did 3 years and still looked fine when I sold it.
Don't rush in would be my advice, there are lots about and a rough one will be a money pit, a £1000 on the purchase price for instance may save much more in the future.
Good luck searching.
I have had 3, could always hear some noise from the master cylinder / servo and not had problems, however as somebody else said they should lock up pretty easy, pedal shouldn't travel far in my opinion, sounds like brakes need a good going over.
Wet carpets can be a pain, they tend to smell musty when dried if they've been damp for a while, loads of places water can get in but it shouldn't if all the seals on the roof, doors, under the bonnet etc are right.
When I bought my last one I jacked it up and had a good poke around with a screwdriver, pay attention around the body mounting plates, my 98 which I sold this year was original outriggers, I scraped them back and gave them a good paint when I bought the car, did 3 years and still looked fine when I sold it.
Don't rush in would be my advice, there are lots about and a rough one will be a money pit, a £1000 on the purchase price for instance may save much more in the future.
Good luck searching.
Be very aware of some so called 'specialists' service history etc. A lot of it is BS baffling brains. Always remember its only an RV8 and there is no mystic about these engines. One of the first things I was told as an apprentice in 1969 was 'its only as good as the last person who worked on it' and I have never forgotten that.
johnny - chims and griffs are very simple cars.
engines, gearbox diff etc are very strong. Cams wear after about 40,000 miles but that can be changed with the engine in the car.
suspension and brakes are very simple and easy to work on. sorting the brakes is no big issue - if they are standard the are parts bin replacements - Granada front disks and callipers for example.
leaks can be easily cured
do have a good look at the chassis as previously mentioned especially on the outriggers - even that's only a £1200 job though
check the steering rack for leaks as that is quite a common problem - they can be rebuilt for a couple of hundred quid though.
check the shocks for leaks and see if they are after market - if they have adjustable platforms then they will probably be decent shocks.
engines, gearbox diff etc are very strong. Cams wear after about 40,000 miles but that can be changed with the engine in the car.
suspension and brakes are very simple and easy to work on. sorting the brakes is no big issue - if they are standard the are parts bin replacements - Granada front disks and callipers for example.
leaks can be easily cured
do have a good look at the chassis as previously mentioned especially on the outriggers - even that's only a £1200 job though
check the steering rack for leaks as that is quite a common problem - they can be rebuilt for a couple of hundred quid though.
check the shocks for leaks and see if they are after market - if they have adjustable platforms then they will probably be decent shocks.
jesfirth said:
johnny - chims and griffs are very simple cars.
engines, gearbox diff etc are very strong. Cams wear after about 40,000 miles but that can be changed with the engine in the car.
suspension and brakes are very simple and easy to work on. sorting the brakes is no big issue - if they are standard the are parts bin replacements - Granada front disks and callipers for example.
leaks can be easily cured
do have a good look at the chassis as previously mentioned especially on the outriggers - even that's only a £1200 job though
check the steering rack for leaks as that is quite a common problem - they can be rebuilt for a couple of hundred quid though.
check the shocks for leaks and see if they are after market - if they have adjustable platforms then they will probably be decent shocks.
I am going to scream at you so you listen "chassis" get one with a full body lift refurbished chassis with pictures then the rest as everyone has suggested, gearbox, diff ,engine are pretty strong. They do come up from time to time and command a little extra money but it is worth it. engines, gearbox diff etc are very strong. Cams wear after about 40,000 miles but that can be changed with the engine in the car.
suspension and brakes are very simple and easy to work on. sorting the brakes is no big issue - if they are standard the are parts bin replacements - Granada front disks and callipers for example.
leaks can be easily cured
do have a good look at the chassis as previously mentioned especially on the outriggers - even that's only a £1200 job though
check the steering rack for leaks as that is quite a common problem - they can be rebuilt for a couple of hundred quid though.
check the shocks for leaks and see if they are after market - if they have adjustable platforms then they will probably be decent shocks.
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