Discussion
I've had 2 x immobiliser failures in a Chimaera and a Griff. In one, squeezing the immobiliser (more accessible in a Chimaera) would get the fuel pump to prime. On the other, the car would occasionally fail to turn over, even when cold and then the whole car cut out at 50 mph. 
With my current Griff, I bought a plug-in replacement alarm / immobiliser system from Abacus (HPA Evo) and it has been perfect since 2022 so I wouldn't say they are all poor, mine hasn't been. It means I retain the remote unlocking / locking synchronised with the immobiliser.
With my current Griff, I bought a plug-in replacement alarm / immobiliser system from Abacus (HPA Evo) and it has been perfect since 2022 so I wouldn't say they are all poor, mine hasn't been. It means I retain the remote unlocking / locking synchronised with the immobiliser.
Ok
Before I rip out the alarm system a thought occurred to me. I have tested the relays and checked all the fuses.
What about the inertia switch?
I had issues in the past but they were resolved, so I thought I'd test that out too. I tried tie switch in and out with zero effect. still no priming.
Not even the mil light on the dash!! Is this a clue??? If so where do I look?
Kwacker
Before I rip out the alarm system a thought occurred to me. I have tested the relays and checked all the fuses.
What about the inertia switch?
I had issues in the past but they were resolved, so I thought I'd test that out too. I tried tie switch in and out with zero effect. still no priming.
Not even the mil light on the dash!! Is this a clue??? If so where do I look?
Kwacker
Can you hear the 2 relays clicking in the footwell with ignition turned on?
You can test for 12 volts at the inertia switch itself, yellow/black is the 12 volt feed and yellow is out to pump, if its present you probably have a break in the cable out to the fuel pump or the fuel pump is stuck/knackered. The connection at the fuel pump can become loose and corrode too.
A test light is better for tests like this, test it on a good battery and observe its brightness first on a good supply.
You can test for 12 volts at the inertia switch itself, yellow/black is the 12 volt feed and yellow is out to pump, if its present you probably have a break in the cable out to the fuel pump or the fuel pump is stuck/knackered. The connection at the fuel pump can become loose and corrode too.
A test light is better for tests like this, test it on a good battery and observe its brightness first on a good supply.
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