Dashboard veneer change

[jezzaaa]

Hi all so next project I ve extracted the dash top and instruments and have a nice new stainless dash to replace the cracked wood veneer. A couple of questions if I may:

1. The speedo wasn t working when I collected the car, so i now have an oppo to check it. I ve read about checking the speedo sender on the diff which I will do, but can I connect the speedo pins to a live wire to test that it actually works? Or is that likely to fry it?

2. The LEDs on the dash for things like the engine light, indicators and handbrake light they appear to be glued in. Is there a recommended method for extracting them? And in case I break any, is there a place I can get replacements?

Thanks as always
J.

Edited by jezzaaa on Wednesday 15th April 10:10

[NickOcean]

There is an excellent you tube video on this - cant remember exactly - i think I searched - TVR CHIMAERA DASHBOARD REMOVAL, I have got to do the same in a few weeks. He carefully broke the glue off in the video.

[sixor8]

This is the kit listed as Griffith but applies here too you need it (£10.50):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123802489873

ETA; The Chimaera specific one listed here is more(£18 +) , but may have more of that required:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123802489878?_trkparms=...

Edited by sixor8 on Wednesday 15th April 15:00

[jezzaaa]

Amazing thanks guys

[PabloGee]

Those Griff and Chim LED kits are different - don't mix them up (ask me how I know) - my experience is around the heater controls.

The Griff ones are cheaper because they don't have a resistor soldered onto the positive to stop the bulb from blowing - they must run from a different level feed.
My car is a Chim, and the kit for that is a straight swap out with a bit of soldering of the wires, and gluing the new LEDs in position.

[jezzaaa]

PabloGee said:

Those Griff and Chim LED kits are different - don't mix them up (ask me how I know) - my experience is around the heater controls.

The Griff ones are cheaper because they don't have a resistor soldered onto the positive to stop the bulb from blowing - they must run from a different level feed.
My car is a Chim, and the kit for that is a straight swap out with a bit of soldering of the wires, and gluing the new LEDs in position.

Ah great tip, thank you