Lazy starter motor
Discussion
Good morning all,
For some time my starter motor has become lazy. I can hear the solenoid click and then nothing. I need to try and twist they key several time until the motor goes in. And when it does, you can hear it laboring and slowly turning the engine.
When the starter motor is connected directly to the battery, it starts and spins without hesitations.
When the starter motor is left on the engine and wired to the car but when I apply current to the solenoid with a separate cable, no issues at all.
Which leads me to believe that the electrical circuit is ok but the solenoid command itself is defective. I have attempted to bypass the immobilizer only for the starter circuit (left the fuel pump circuit untouched).
Now, I'd like to know if it is possible to wire the solenoid directly from the neiman and if the circuit current rating is sufficient? And also, which wire from the Newman shall be routed directly to the solenoid.
Alternatively, if anybody has any suggestion as to what can I try to sort out my issue, please be my guest.
Thank you all for your help.
Philippe
For some time my starter motor has become lazy. I can hear the solenoid click and then nothing. I need to try and twist they key several time until the motor goes in. And when it does, you can hear it laboring and slowly turning the engine.
When the starter motor is connected directly to the battery, it starts and spins without hesitations.
When the starter motor is left on the engine and wired to the car but when I apply current to the solenoid with a separate cable, no issues at all.
Which leads me to believe that the electrical circuit is ok but the solenoid command itself is defective. I have attempted to bypass the immobilizer only for the starter circuit (left the fuel pump circuit untouched).
Now, I'd like to know if it is possible to wire the solenoid directly from the neiman and if the circuit current rating is sufficient? And also, which wire from the Newman shall be routed directly to the solenoid.
Alternatively, if anybody has any suggestion as to what can I try to sort out my issue, please be my guest.
Thank you all for your help.
Philippe
Sounds like the usual Meta wiring issue. There's many posts on here about this, basically the lubrication in the solenoid has become more viscous due to heat soak over the years. This combined with a low current solenoid signal from the Meta unit means there is insufficient power to pop the solenoid forward. This usually presents when the engine is hot but the issue is there all the time. There are differing opinions on which is the best solution, I'd suggest searching 'hot start issue'
As said do a search through previous threads, there's lots of detail on the chims various starting maladies.... sounds like your starter solenoid is sticking so you're probably looking at replacing the starter or you could strip it down and clean up if you're keen. .. Other likely causes are:
Tired battery
Replace 2.5m long cable from battery to starter with a thicker cable.
Ditto cable from battery to ground.
Faulty immobiliser on starter circuit which can be bypassed.
Go through that lot and it should make starting up less of a lottery, certainly has in my case.
Tired battery
Replace 2.5m long cable from battery to starter with a thicker cable.
Ditto cable from battery to ground.
Faulty immobiliser on starter circuit which can be bypassed.
Go through that lot and it should make starting up less of a lottery, certainly has in my case.
You can remove the solenoid to clean and re lubricate it too, may help.
If your savvy with electrics then run a new larger gauge wire to the solenoid from under the dash area, you can add a starter relay here as the old solenoid cable is easily accessible to trigger the relay coil.
You can also add one to the fuse box but that's a little trickier.
If your savvy with electrics then run a new larger gauge wire to the solenoid from under the dash area, you can add a starter relay here as the old solenoid cable is easily accessible to trigger the relay coil.
You can also add one to the fuse box but that's a little trickier.
bobfather said:
Sounds like the usual Meta wiring issue. There's many posts on here about this, basically the lubrication in the solenoid has become more viscous due to heat soak over the years. This combined with a low current solenoid signal from the Meta unit means there is insufficient power to pop the solenoid forward. This usually presents when the engine is hot but the issue is there all the time. There are differing opinions on which is the best solution, I'd suggest searching 'hot start issue'
The engine was dead cold. The car wasn't run for the last month or so. Could be the low current issue since when drawing current directly from the + connection,with a bypass cable, on the starter motors, it works perfectly.latham91 said:
As said do a search through previous threads, there's lots of detail on the chims various starting maladies.... sounds like your starter solenoid is sticking so you're probably looking at replacing the starter or you could strip it down and clean up if you're keen. .. Other likely causes are:
Tired battery
Replace 2.5m long cable from battery to starter with a thicker cable.
Ditto cable from battery to ground.
Faulty immobiliser on starter circuit which can be bypassed.
Go through that lot and it should make starting up less of a lottery, certainly has in my case.
Battery is brand new.Tired battery
Replace 2.5m long cable from battery to starter with a thicker cable.
Ditto cable from battery to ground.
Faulty immobiliser on starter circuit which can be bypassed.
Go through that lot and it should make starting up less of a lottery, certainly has in my case.
Cable has been replaced with much bigger gauge already (+ and - lines, both at the same time).
Immobiliser could be a culprit. I have bypassed it already (maybe not entirely or did something wrong). Have you got the instructions to do so? I've lost them....
Soooo.... with the useful comments and suggestions found on this website, I have done the following:
- Connected the starter directly to the battery with jump start cables and the solenoid directly to the + on the motor. Everything works fine.
- Took the ground jump start cable off and tested the ground of the car. Everything works fine.
- Took Ground and positive cables off and tested the car circuit while connecting the solenoid directly to the +. Everything works fine.
- Checked my immobilizer by-pass. Disconnected the plug and short-circuited the white+red wire to the solenoid. Starter works fine but car didn't stop since fuel pump was not energized.
- Took key barrel connections off and short circuited red wire with white + red. Everything works fine.
At this point, it was obvious that my lazy starter issue had disappeared. I honestly don't know what happened but I must have had a bad connection somewhere which has been cured by me touching everything.
I am a happy bunny since the car now starts again at a flick of the switch but for god knows how long.
Meanwhile, I have ordered a fused relay in order to isolate the barrel circuit and allow bigger section wires feeding the solenoid directly.
I love TVRs....
- Connected the starter directly to the battery with jump start cables and the solenoid directly to the + on the motor. Everything works fine.
- Took the ground jump start cable off and tested the ground of the car. Everything works fine.
- Took Ground and positive cables off and tested the car circuit while connecting the solenoid directly to the +. Everything works fine.
- Checked my immobilizer by-pass. Disconnected the plug and short-circuited the white+red wire to the solenoid. Starter works fine but car didn't stop since fuel pump was not energized.
- Took key barrel connections off and short circuited red wire with white + red. Everything works fine.
At this point, it was obvious that my lazy starter issue had disappeared. I honestly don't know what happened but I must have had a bad connection somewhere which has been cured by me touching everything.
I am a happy bunny since the car now starts again at a flick of the switch but for god knows how long.
Meanwhile, I have ordered a fused relay in order to isolate the barrel circuit and allow bigger section wires feeding the solenoid directly.
I love TVRs....
Penelope Stopit said:
You could fit and wire one of these in the engine bay, this type of solenoid has a button on the end of It that can be used In emergencies to crank the engine, pushing the button makes the contacts
Or drill a hole in the rad, seal it up and be able to get a cranking handle onto the crank pulley !Forums | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff