Jools is the man
Discussion
After the car cut out on the m1 on the way to the pod spoke to Jools about fault finding on the ecu
2 mins later diagnosed as not picking up crank movement
New sensor sent and arrived today
Gone to fit it and it’s not lining up to the wheel
Jools diagnosis it as bottom pully at fault
He is bloody wright the bolt has done one and it’s moved forward out of range of the sensor
Jools is the man
2 mins later diagnosed as not picking up crank movement
New sensor sent and arrived today
Gone to fit it and it’s not lining up to the wheel
Jools diagnosis it as bottom pully at fault
He is bloody wright the bolt has done one and it’s moved forward out of range of the sensor
Jools is the man
So not a sensor fault as such then.
That’s both good and bad, how the feck did the pulley wheel bolt come off.
260 psi or something on that bolt, or an extension bar 4 ft long and half a nip
Glad that went on the M1 and not the strip.
Phew, sounds like you got lucky, that would rip you a new arse if that came off and bounced up.
That’s both good and bad, how the feck did the pulley wheel bolt come off.
260 psi or something on that bolt, or an extension bar 4 ft long and half a nip
Glad that went on the M1 and not the strip.
Phew, sounds like you got lucky, that would rip you a new arse if that came off and bounced up.
d bolt has snapped 
Someone will say that because the head of the bolt is off then the tension on the remainder of the fixing is released.
If this is the case and with the loose pulley removed it might be possible to tap the remains round and out with a centre punch and hammer.
I'm not optimistic but worth a try maybe?
If this is the case and with the loose pulley removed it might be possible to tap the remains round and out with a centre punch and hammer.
I'm not optimistic but worth a try maybe?
lancepar said:
Someone will say that because the head of the bolt is off then the tension on the remainder of the fixing is released.
If this is the case and with the loose pulley removed it might be possible to tap the remains round and out with a centre punch and hammer.
I'm not optimistic but worth a try maybe?
Fingers crossed it’s not tight and these will do the trick If this is the case and with the loose pulley removed it might be possible to tap the remains round and out with a centre punch and hammer.
I'm not optimistic but worth a try maybe?
Boosted LS1 said:
If the bolt remains are sitting proud of the cover that'll be great news. Might be able to grip it.
I'd give the balancer a good once over as if the rubber bonding's deteriorated that may be the cause of the damaged bolt ie vibration?
Had the pully assembly balanced back end of last year when the trigger wheel was fitted I'd give the balancer a good once over as if the rubber bonding's deteriorated that may be the cause of the damaged bolt ie vibration?
I would have hoped they would have spotted anything wrong at £200+ but I will have a look while it’s on the bench
Sadly it’s below the face of the end of the crank so it drill or punch I think
The last option will be mig a nut on what’s left but getting in at it is the pain
jojackson4 said:
Boosted LS1 said:
If the bolt remains are sitting proud of the cover that'll be great news. Might be able to grip it.
I'd give the balancer a good once over as if the rubber bonding's deteriorated that may be the cause of the damaged bolt ie vibration?
Had the pully assembly balanced back end of last year when the trigger wheel was fitted I'd give the balancer a good once over as if the rubber bonding's deteriorated that may be the cause of the damaged bolt ie vibration?
I would have hoped they would have spotted anything wrong at £200+ but I will have a look while it’s on the bench
Sadly it’s below the face of the end of the crank so it drill or punch I think
The last option will be mig a nut on what’s left but getting in at it is the pain
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