Brake Reservoir and Cylinder - Change both?

[Monsterlime]

My brake reservoir has a crack in it that is wet to the touch but not actively leaking out. I have sourced a replacement (with an incorrect master cylinder attached), but in speaking to both Powers and Racetech (who run TVR Parts, don't they?) these are hard to come by and they are not able to supply them with the master cylinder anymore.

Apparently, on their own they are £145 (my new replacement is much less than this even with the master cylinder attached).

Is it worth replacing the master cylinder at the same time? I haven't stuck my head in there yet to see the state of it all, but since I am going to have remove it etc, either the seals will need doing or I just replace the lot.

[Penelope Stopit]

Can't help you with this

Someone might be along shortly

Are you up and running now having found the lambda sensors earthing point missing a bolt?

Always interested in the outcome

[phillpot]

Monsterlime said:

Racetech (who run TVR Parts, don't they?) .

No.

Monsterlime said:

Is it worth replacing the master cylinder at the same time?

If you have no issue with the brakes just change the reservoir?

[Monsterlime]

Penelope Stopit said:

Can't help you with this

Someone might be along shortly

Are you up and running now having found the lambda sensors earthing point missing a bolt?

Always interested in the outcome

I am taking her out for a run today to test, had to unplug the car when we went on holiday as SWMBO didn’t like the idea of leaving it plugged in. I only just got confirmation that the reservoir I thought was the right one for a good price was indeed correct.

phillpot said:

Monsterlime said:

Racetech (who run TVR Parts, don't they?) .

No.

Monsterlime said:

Is it worth replacing the master cylinder at the same time?

If you have no issue with the brakes just change the reservoir?

Fair enough, I must have misunderstood somewhere re TVR Parts.

Brakes are fine, was more to do with seals as I said since I will likely need to remove the cylinder to change the reservoir. At least that is what it looks like to me when I’ve read a few threads on others doing it (it also sounds like a delightful job), so wasn’t sure if it was just worth replacing the lot.

Unless you can get the reservoir out without removing the cylinder as well?

[Steve_D]

Monsterlime said:

..............Unless you can get the reservoir out without removing the cylinder as well?

No you can't.
Sad to say a pig of a job and one I don't look forwards to.
Biggest issue is getting the pipe unions undone.
Tip for you....to get a spanner on the union furthest forward remove the grommet that has the throttle cable coming through it and get your spanner in from there.

Steve

[Penelope Stopit]

Monsterlime said:

Penelope Stopit said:

Can't help you with this

Someone might be along shortly

Are you up and running now having found the lambda sensors earthing point missing a bolt?

Always interested in the outcome

I am taking her out for a run today to test, had to unplug the car when we went on holiday as SWMBO didn’t like the idea of leaving it plugged in. I only just got confirmation that the reservoir I thought was the right one for a good price was indeed correct.

All's well that ends well

Nice fix

Viewed your other post

[Griffith500user]

I am new to posting on this site, and have only just bought another Chimaera (3 weeks ago) returning from my last experience with a Griffith 500 with a 15 year interlude.

The car I bought had a known brake issue, so having ‘managed’ the issue to get it the 100 miles home with the brakes wanting to apply themselves at any low revs opportunity!, I have just done the job of removing the pedal box and looking into the brake servo and master cylinder, so I have first hand recent experience!

Although I didn’t do it this way, I think it might be possible to split the reservoir from the master cylinder whilst in situ, using a wide flat blade screwdriver to prise one from the other through the clutch master cylinder hatch. It has been a big job to remove the pedal box and do the whole job on my car but I know where you are coming from so whilst mine was a part I replaced the brake and clutch master cylinders and servo (which was the issue as it had rusted through).

I do have a decent reservoir from my car if you are still looking for one? 07814 359423.

[Sardonicus]

Done a few of these now separating Res from cylinder whilst in situ , patience is king and don't go mad you can easily cause permanent strain/bruising to the Res, turkey baster or vacuum the fluid from the Res whilst packing underneath near the outlets with adsorbent paper towel to capture split fluid making sure any that escapes is neutralised with water , the rest like Steve D says fiddly but access greatly improved for MC cylinder removal

Edited by Sardonicus on Sunday 13th October 11:24

[schmokin1]

If the current res is knacked then cant it just be levered out via the clutch m/cyl access. Or manoeuvre wire down and back up around the res, then use to pull luggage strap through (several places) and pull upwards on that to spread the load and avoid cracking the res....

[Jon Brown]

I pulled mine out from the engine bay side with no issue, just make sure its empty first

[Sardonicus]

Jon Brown said:

I pulled mine out from the engine bay side with no issue, just make sure its empty first

^ This is the only way to do this job unless you plan on removing the whole pedal box assy which is how TVR fitted the unit in the 1st place a Griff I see recently would not allow the res out via the inner wing aperture it was too small however this was not an issue as the whole MC and res was renewed so damage to the used cracked res was inconsequential anyway, the aperture was then cleaned up with a die grinder burr to remove the offending lumps and bumps from when the tub was produced

Edited by Sardonicus on Monday 14th October 16:38

[Dave85chim]

I have recently fitted a new reservoir with a new servo/ cylinder in place fiddly but doable. Just make sure you get the correct seals when refitting.

I recently got some but I think they are incorrect as the reservoir itself sits proud.

[phillpot]

Dave85chim said:

I recently got some but I think they are incorrect as the reservoir itself sits proud.

Or it's not gone all the way in?

Doing this job on a S Series with no access problems is a fiddle, on a Griff with no "wiggle room" I wish you good luck!

[Sardonicus]

Red brake grease is your friend , works 1st time every time little on the res lower barbed nipples and the MC rubber grommet/seals , did one about 3 weeks ago

[Dave85chim]

phillpot said:

Dave85chim said:

I recently got some but I think they are incorrect as the reservoir itself sits proud.

Or it's not gone all the way in?

Doing this job on a S Series with no access problems is a fiddle, on a Griff with no "wiggle room" I wish you good luck!

Im pretty sure its all the way in. The seals I got as a replacement seemed to sit proud of the cylinder whereas the ones i removed sat inside the cylinder where were flush - if that makes sense - My non tech drawing should help ....






the ones i fitted looked like these on the left image. Are these incorrect? not intending to high jack the post - but one for the OP to be mindfull of maybe.

[Monsterlime]

Thanks all! This is definitely a job I am not looking forwards to. .

Where did you get the new seals from?

New reservoir has arrived, and attached to the (incorrect) cylinder, so will very carefully remove it first, before starting on the car.

What sealant should be used round the top when back in? Is silicone ok? i do have the RTV gasket sealant as well.

[Dave85chim]

I managed to get mine from Racetech. But these were used as they were upgrading a car that needed uprated seals, but like I say im not sure if correct as they sit proud. Raceteck are unable to buy the seals separate even when they ask the master cyl company which they are fitted to and I havent managed to locate any others as yet.

I will let you know if I find any

[Dave85chim]

Ok so on this subject when replacing the seals- do you fit them inside the cylinder then push the reservoir into them? - Or, fit them on the reservoir then push them into the cylinder - rear fits in no problem- buggered if I can get front in!

[Sardonicus]

Seals sit it the MC then res pushed in from above with a rocking/rotating motion