Ticking and leaks
Discussion
In getting some jobs done on the car, and driving it the other day to the shops, I have noticed the dreaded ticking coming from the engine bay. It seems to be constant, but when accelerating it gets drowned out, but is there from cold.
Videos -
Cold - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dS9U0eqF4cw
Warm/Hot - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxzcRJke8tk
Forgive the camera work, it was more for the sound.
I have tried both the hose method and a piece of wood method, and using the wood I felt more from the exhaust manifolds. However using the hose, when it was pressed up against the bolts at the front of the head, next to the exhaust manifold I could hear quite a distinct ticking, from both sides (although I think it was a bit louder from the drivers side). These bolts -
Using the hose around the rest of the manifold etc, I didn't hear much at all.
The car drives fine, and revs all the way to 5k RPM without a problem, but after reading the numerous threads on the ticking subject, it has me a bit worried re the cam or rocker pads. The car is on 77k and as far as I know, it hasn't had a cam change (at least I have no documentation for it). Any other suggestions apart from pulling it all apart?
Also, while I have recently replaced the PAS hoses, seems like there is a leak/weep from around the U bend join under the pump, as the chasis rail there is wet and when I wiped around the U bend, I found some very red fluid. This is quite annoying since they are all new. I can't see the leak from above, so I guess it is on the other side (you can see it in the second pic above). The fluid level in the PAS reservoir seems fine, so it can't be terrible but will need looking at. Unless it could be coolant (my coolant is also red)?
The other wet area I noticed was under the distributor. I have cleaned it up, but it wasn't obvious what it was. The oil level seems fine, hasn't moved since I last checked it although once it cools a bit I am going to top it up and keep an eye on it. Could this be a leak from the valley gasket?
A not brilliant pic -
Videos -
Cold - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dS9U0eqF4cw
Warm/Hot - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxzcRJke8tk
Forgive the camera work, it was more for the sound.
I have tried both the hose method and a piece of wood method, and using the wood I felt more from the exhaust manifolds. However using the hose, when it was pressed up against the bolts at the front of the head, next to the exhaust manifold I could hear quite a distinct ticking, from both sides (although I think it was a bit louder from the drivers side). These bolts -
Using the hose around the rest of the manifold etc, I didn't hear much at all.
The car drives fine, and revs all the way to 5k RPM without a problem, but after reading the numerous threads on the ticking subject, it has me a bit worried re the cam or rocker pads. The car is on 77k and as far as I know, it hasn't had a cam change (at least I have no documentation for it). Any other suggestions apart from pulling it all apart?
Also, while I have recently replaced the PAS hoses, seems like there is a leak/weep from around the U bend join under the pump, as the chasis rail there is wet and when I wiped around the U bend, I found some very red fluid. This is quite annoying since they are all new. I can't see the leak from above, so I guess it is on the other side (you can see it in the second pic above). The fluid level in the PAS reservoir seems fine, so it can't be terrible but will need looking at. Unless it could be coolant (my coolant is also red)?
The other wet area I noticed was under the distributor. I have cleaned it up, but it wasn't obvious what it was. The oil level seems fine, hasn't moved since I last checked it although once it cools a bit I am going to top it up and keep an eye on it. Could this be a leak from the valley gasket?
A not brilliant pic -
Both videos come up as 'private' on youtube.
Anyway, without seeing them I'll place my bet for exhaust manifold gaskets.
One of my favourite jobs 'Not' but all to often.
You could tape a 1/2" wide strip of paper to a thin stick and hold it down by the exhaust manifold joint to see if it
A Flaps about.
B Gets black and sooty
C Bursts into flames
Steve
Anyway, without seeing them I'll place my bet for exhaust manifold gaskets.
One of my favourite jobs 'Not' but all to often.
You could tape a 1/2" wide strip of paper to a thin stick and hold it down by the exhaust manifold joint to see if it
A Flaps about.
B Gets black and sooty
C Bursts into flames
Steve
Edited by Steve_D on Thursday 9th April 12:02
This is what a missing rocker pad sounds like; It doesn't sound like you have that problem.
https://youtu.be/a61cqgDEyXQ
https://youtu.be/a61cqgDEyXQ
My bet is with Steve. Sounds just like my manifold gasket blowing. Driving at low speed you can hear the chuff chuff.
The worst bit is fitting new manifolds, gaskets, arp bolts & nordlock washers.
Taking it for a test drive & thinking all is well. Well it is for a while then chuff chuff starts again.
No 8 is a barsteward & Laughs at you every few hundred miles.
Steve D will know a magic fix & even a bent 3/8" spanner made for the job.
You are not alone.
The worst bit is fitting new manifolds, gaskets, arp bolts & nordlock washers.
Taking it for a test drive & thinking all is well. Well it is for a while then chuff chuff starts again.
No 8 is a barsteward & Laughs at you every few hundred miles.
Steve D will know a magic fix & even a bent 3/8" spanner made for the job.
You are not alone.
I was convinced that I had a manifold leak, but could not find it with the usual methods.
Eventually I used a piece of 8mm (6mm bore) flexible hose abou 1 meter long which I stuffed right into my ear hole and plugged my other ear. It was amazing what you then hear by poking the other end around your engine bay, but don't let the neighbors see you.
My leak was found where the 4 pipes come into one, with small hose you can poked down between the four pipes.
Good luck.
Eventually I used a piece of 8mm (6mm bore) flexible hose abou 1 meter long which I stuffed right into my ear hole and plugged my other ear. It was amazing what you then hear by poking the other end around your engine bay, but don't let the neighbors see you.
My leak was found where the 4 pipes come into one, with small hose you can poked down between the four pipes.
Good luck.
Sorry to hear of your loss Steve - I hope you gave the spanner a proper burial.
On the leaking PAS issue, the best fix is the Chimaera parts kit. Not cheap, but it works:
https://chimaerapartsonline.co.uk/
On the leaking PAS issue, the best fix is the Chimaera parts kit. Not cheap, but it works:
https://chimaerapartsonline.co.uk/
I actually have the Chimaera Parts PAS hoses fitted. I have spoken to John and hopefully it just needs tightening, but he has been very helpful.
It is hard to see, but it is weeping from the join.
That will be done later today, as will more ticking noise finding. Am going to try some paper and have ordered a smaller diameter hose compared to the one I have and use that test.
Had a suggestion on FB to put bungs on the exhausts and use a compressor to send air in via one bung, saves running the engine. If I don't get anywhere today, will get them and try that. Hopefully a compressor for an airbrush will be sufficient!
It is hard to see, but it is weeping from the join.
That will be done later today, as will more ticking noise finding. Am going to try some paper and have ordered a smaller diameter hose compared to the one I have and use that test.
Had a suggestion on FB to put bungs on the exhausts and use a compressor to send air in via one bung, saves running the engine. If I don't get anywhere today, will get them and try that. Hopefully a compressor for an airbrush will be sufficient!
Access to that is a pain! I tried for an hour or so to tighten it up, but no joy.
This is a much better picture -
I did also give the paper method a go, and it seems like that it might be coming from the join into four on the manifold, drivers side - https://youtu.be/TbduGtxR20M
Now, along with some other jobs I want to do (engine mounts, run down and treat the chassis under the manifolds and a few other things), I am wondering if things might be easier if I just pulled the engine. Might be a bit drastic, but it would make a lot of things easier to sort all at once. Am I crackers?
This is a much better picture -
I did also give the paper method a go, and it seems like that it might be coming from the join into four on the manifold, drivers side - https://youtu.be/TbduGtxR20M
Now, along with some other jobs I want to do (engine mounts, run down and treat the chassis under the manifolds and a few other things), I am wondering if things might be easier if I just pulled the engine. Might be a bit drastic, but it would make a lot of things easier to sort all at once. Am I crackers?
Monsterlime said:
...... Am I crackers?
Yes. You need a much bigger list of jobs to justify an engine out.Problem is the list of jobs will suddenly double/treble as soon as the engine touches the floor.
- Are you going to put it back without changing the clutch
- are you going to inspect the cam
- etc
I would likely change the clutch, yes. Again, as far as I know it is the original. I am also very likely to go for GEMS eventually, and would need access there to change the flywheel for one with the right trigger wheel.
And re the cam, yes, again, high on my list and it would be a lot easier that way and I would put in one that works with GEMS, although that isn’t 100% necessary apparently and a boss can be made later.
Would also be easier to inspect the bottom end of the engine and make sure all is healthy from there, and if necessary get it sent off for a rebuild (not convinced I can be trusted to do that!).
And re the cam, yes, again, high on my list and it would be a lot easier that way and I would put in one that works with GEMS, although that isn’t 100% necessary apparently and a boss can be made later.
Would also be easier to inspect the bottom end of the engine and make sure all is healthy from there, and if necessary get it sent off for a rebuild (not convinced I can be trusted to do that!).
I had the same leak on my PAS lines when I bought my car. I found my nut on the U bend had cracked slightly. I cut this off and with some new hose used 2 jubilee clips to attach the new piece of hose up the the PAS pump. That method has given me 3 leak free years so far (touch wood).
See pic but ignore the fluid higher up the hose as I have just replaced the jubilee clip attaching the hose to the pump.
See pic but ignore the fluid higher up the hose as I have just replaced the jubilee clip attaching the hose to the pump.
Dalamar said:
I had the same leak on my PAS lines when I bought my car. I found my nut on the U bend had cracked slightly. I cut this off and with some new hose used 2 jubilee clips to attach the new piece of hose up the the PAS pump. That method has given me 3 leak free years so far (touch wood).
See pic but ignore the fluid higher up the hose as I have just replaced the jubilee clip attaching the hose to the pump.
Interesting, thanks. Definitely possible. Mine has only been in since Feb. I have tried adjusting them as per some advice from John, but it didn't seem to work, so he is happy for me to pull that one and send it back for a replacement. Just need to drain the reservoir without making a horrific mess.See pic but ignore the fluid higher up the hose as I have just replaced the jubilee clip attaching the hose to the pump.
Since all the post is slow, I haven't had any of the other bits I am waiting for, like the bungs etc so haven't made any progress with identifing where the noise is coming from exactly. I am still doing a full working week but would have been nice to have made more progress on that over the weekend.
Monsterlime said:
Interesting, thanks. Definitely possible. Mine has only been in since Feb. I have tried adjusting them as per some advice from John, but it didn't seem to work, so he is happy for me to pull that one and send it back for a replacement. Just need to drain the reservoir without making a horrific mess.
Since all the post is slow, I haven't had any of the other bits I am waiting for, like the bungs etc so haven't made any progress with identifing where the noise is coming from exactly. I am still doing a full working week but would have been nice to have made more progress on that over the weekend.
I found siphoning out from the reservoir\tipping it into a container above the exhaust to replace all the hoses with the power steering upgrade kit did very little to stop the exon Valdez.Since all the post is slow, I haven't had any of the other bits I am waiting for, like the bungs etc so haven't made any progress with identifing where the noise is coming from exactly. I am still doing a full working week but would have been nice to have made more progress on that over the weekend.
If I was doing it again I would have removed the HP line from the steering rack first and drain it into an oil container followed by the low pressure return.
I did this at the weekend, and somewhat unexpectedly, siphoning did work. I have a small hose attachment for it that I was able to get into the hose I was removing, so got most of the PAS fluid out of both the reservoir and the hose I removed with very little mess.
Hopefully I'll remember to remove the little tub before driving it again!
I still haven't gotten any further with the ticking, Royal Mail being a bit slow and the fact I apparently only ordered one of those bung things for my exhaust instead of two (positive I ordered two) means no more testing has happened, especially with the PAS hose off.
The hose was a bit awkward to get out of the engine bay and I had to just drop it and pull it out from under the car, so will probably jack it up partially refit from there.
Hopefully I'll remember to remove the little tub before driving it again!
I still haven't gotten any further with the ticking, Royal Mail being a bit slow and the fact I apparently only ordered one of those bung things for my exhaust instead of two (positive I ordered two) means no more testing has happened, especially with the PAS hose off.
The hose was a bit awkward to get out of the engine bay and I had to just drop it and pull it out from under the car, so will probably jack it up partially refit from there.
No, not yet. I have tried all the suggestions in the thread, but I haven't been able to locate it. All I can hear is a loud ticking from both heads (when running). I did also get it checked out by a local garage who specialise in exhaust fabrication etc, and they couldn't find anything conclusive.
You would have thought during lockdown I would have had the time, but unfortunately not. I am saving up a raft of jobs to send off to a specialist and that will be one of them.
You would have thought during lockdown I would have had the time, but unfortunately not. I am saving up a raft of jobs to send off to a specialist and that will be one of them.
See if you can borrow a DJ smoke machine lots of us have these nowadays and seal up one tail pipe and fit supply to the other pipe , I use something similar in my occupation and would not be without this method for finding failing inter-coolers, boost hosing couplings, leak testing plastic inlet manifolds etc , you dont need an automotive specific machine a £50 DJ one will do with some cheap fuel/coolant hose etc for fittings extending , I know of guys that have knocked up something usable using this method above ^ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuck96Tq4_U
Edited by Zener on Thursday 13th August 11:48
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