Another restoration thread!

[x 7usc]

Moving on from my "just acquired a 500 HC" thread
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

I thought id start a new one with a more interesting title

So, bought as a non runner that has sat outside for 9 years under a cover with a ruined engine I've gone in with eyes (and wallet) wide open. so far i have managed to strip the interior and remove all the body bolt (shearing only 4)
Made a start on sorting the electrics out and re locating the fuse box to behind passenger seat, battery will probably go in the boot and the ECU will live where the fuse box was in passenger foot well.

[x 7usc]

[x 7usc]

[x 7usc]

[x 7usc]

Any tips on posting multiple pictures will be gratefully received

[magpies]

as it has a 'knackered' engine - now is the time to look a fitting a better, more modern, more efficient engine.

[jeremyc]

x 7usc said:

Any tips on posting multiple pictures will be gratefully received

Just do multiple uploads within the one post, or include multiple lines with links to the pictures. Quote this post to see how.

[x 7usc]

jeremyc said:

ust do multiple uploads within the one post, or include multiple lines with links to the pictures. Quote this post to see how.

aha! ok cool thanks, ill give that a go with the next update pictures

[x 7usc]

magpies said:

as it has a 'knackered' engine - now is the time to look a fitting a better, more modern, more efficient engine.

i know what you're thinking but I'm wanting to keep some originality so JE Developments will be rebuilding the existing 5L Rover lump, i would imagine to 5.2 ish

[Penelope Stopit]

That's pretty

As the car's well and truly stripped down there are other electrical modifications that can be made

Here's a few things to think about if you're interested

Battery positive to fusebox can now be pulled out of the loom, run across the back and directly into the boot

Headlights and side/tail lights can be fused for LH/RH (there's only 1 sidelight fuse in the original fusebox...Not good)

Headlight relays can be mounted somewhere inside up-front and new thin-wall cables run to the lights for LH/RH (small fusebox can be wired up-front with the relays)

Fan relays could mounted alongside the headlight relays

Fuel pump relay could be mounted in the boot close to the pump

Just a thought

[x 7usc]

Penelope Stopit said:

That's pretty

As the car's well and truly stripped down there are other electrical modifications that can be made

Here's a few things to think about if you're interested

Battery positive to fusebox can now be pulled out of the loom, run across the back and directly into the boot

Headlights and side/tail lights can be fused for LH/RH (there's only 1 sidelight fuse in the original fusebox...Not good)

Headlight relays can be mounted somewhere inside up-front and new thin-wall cables run to the lights for LH/RH (small fusebox can be wired up-front with the relays)

Fan relays could mounted alongside the headlight relays

Fuel pump relay could be mounted in the boot close to the pump

Just a thought

Thanks for the heads up on those, i am definitely interested in getting those done! Actually the battery positive to fusebox is already out as 1. i want to increase the size and quality of that cable and 2. I'm planning to re locate the battery as i don't like the idea of it in the footwell and currently the boot is winning.

I am also going to solder and heat shrink the multiplug connections in the access voids for the door locks as these plugs are a green and white fury mess right now!

I like you relocating ideas for the relays, makes perfect sense now you've pointed them out, definitely something i would have overlooked so

I'm a stickler for quality so ill be spending many hours coming up with little improvements, im certainly not doing this for profit

[Belle427]

Fuel pump circuit definitely worth doing, I wouldn’t over complicate it by adding a relay in the boot personally, I’d just rewire the existing circuit with no connections in it.

[Penelope Stopit]

Ok then

At least you're able to enjoy doing the job, no pressure

[Belle427]

For me and what I’ve done as below, just for peace of mind.
The battery move isn’t for everyone but it was for me.
I know a lot love to keep things standard, but I Just chose to improve things without detracting too much from the cars originality and make it the car it should have been when it left the factory.

Battery moved to boot, fusebox moved down into its place. Battery positive run along top chassis rail through protective conduit.
Upgraded starter and Alternator cabling, all through protective conduit (I chose to remove the 100 amp fuse)
Upgraded Negatives
Maxi fuse fitted to battery positive
Starter relay fitted with upgraded cabling to solenoid
Fuel pump circuit rewired with no connections and higher grade cabling
Alarm replaced to a modern Toad system with boot release
Megasquirt management to modernise and get rid of the troublesome ignition system(Lack of quality spares)
Fuses changed to the glow blow type

[QBee]

I too had my battery relocated to the boot and changed for an Odyssey battery. It is located on top of the fuel tank.

Main red cable runs straight from the starter to the starter, rather then to the fuse board - the original board to starter cable has been left in place, and now moves electrons from starter to fuse board. I also have a battery isolator switch installed next to the battery, so that i can protect the battery from discharge is I am not using the car an extended period, or want to work on the car without having to disconnect the battery. If you do put such a switch in the boot, you will need to click the boot catch across when you use the isolator, so that the boot lid cannot fully shut, or you will lock yourself out of the boot and the car and therefore will be unable to turn the isolator on.

[Belle427]

QBee said:

I too had my battery relocated to the boot and changed for an Odyssey battery. It is located on top of the fuel tank.

Main red cable runs straight from the starter to the starter, rather then to the fuse board - the original board to starter cable has been left in place, and now moves electrons from starter to fuse board. I also have a battery isolator switch installed next to the battery, so that i can protect the battery from discharge is I am not using the car an extended period, or want to work on the car without having to disconnect the battery. If you do put such a switch in the boot, you will need to click the boot catch across when you use the isolator, so that the boot lid cannot fully shut, or you will lock yourself out of the boot and the car and therefore will be unable to turn the isolator on.

I may look at adding a boot release cable somewhere if it’s possible.

[Steve_D]

Belle427 said:

I may look at adding a boot release cable somewhere if it’s possible.

Or 2 stainless steel dome head bolts through the boot floor. Connect them to the boot latch.
To get in simply reach under the boot and touch 12 volts to the bolt heads.

Steve

[Belle427]

Steve_D said:

Belle427 said:

I may look at adding a boot release cable somewhere if it’s possible.

Or 2 stainless steel dome head bolts through the boot floor. Connect them to the boot latch.
To get in simply reach under the boot and touch 12 volts to the bolt heads.

Steve

Good idea, would work well.

[Riff Raff]

Belle427 said:

Steve_D said:

Belle427 said:

I may look at adding a boot release cable somewhere if it’s possible.

Or 2 stainless steel dome head bolts through the boot floor. Connect them to the boot latch.
To get in simply reach under the boot and touch 12 volts to the bolt heads.

Steve

Good idea, would work well.

+2. I’m pinching the idea too!

[Penelope Stopit]

Or a magnet