Low rev stalling
Discussion
Hi
I have a1997 Chim 500 with Taraka performance upgrades
Car had been suffering intermittent low rev stalling & sticky tickover (very occasionally sticks about 1500rpm while out driving)
Recently I’ve replaced the
Ignition amplifier module,
Stepper motor,
Distributor cap,
Rotor arm,
Coil
Also reset the ECU (unplug/plug-in)
All the above have made improvements but still have the issue albeit intermittently,
I know it has been very hot weather when I’m out (mid 20s to low 30s) and very hot under bonnet but as it restarts on the key immediately after stalling and drives fine when on the gas
TBH I’m baffled and don’t know if it is fuel, air or spark related
Any ideas?
I’m in West Sussex and wonder if anybody can recommend a good V8 specialist, was at Mole Valley for a very short period but didn’t suffer issue when with them as I’d recently fitted all the parts & they reset ECU prior to test drive, and this is when I saw the best improvement
Thanks
Mark
I have a1997 Chim 500 with Taraka performance upgrades
Car had been suffering intermittent low rev stalling & sticky tickover (very occasionally sticks about 1500rpm while out driving)
Recently I’ve replaced the
Ignition amplifier module,
Stepper motor,
Distributor cap,
Rotor arm,
Coil
Also reset the ECU (unplug/plug-in)
All the above have made improvements but still have the issue albeit intermittently,
I know it has been very hot weather when I’m out (mid 20s to low 30s) and very hot under bonnet but as it restarts on the key immediately after stalling and drives fine when on the gas
TBH I’m baffled and don’t know if it is fuel, air or spark related
Any ideas?
I’m in West Sussex and wonder if anybody can recommend a good V8 specialist, was at Mole Valley for a very short period but didn’t suffer issue when with them as I’d recently fitted all the parts & they reset ECU prior to test drive, and this is when I saw the best improvement
Thanks
Mark
The things that hold the idle high are sticky stepper (replaced), air leak around the plenum,, throttle pot reading high or random speed input to the ECU from the speedo calibration unit.
Idle issues- anything that makes the idle drop faster than the ECU is programmed to cope with. ie:
Ignition Misfire, Rich mixture - possibly AFM failure when hot, or wrong temperature reading to the ECU . Over lean mixture like an air leak.
You really need diagnostics to look at the sensors, guesswork is not the best option as there are so many variables
Idle issues- anything that makes the idle drop faster than the ECU is programmed to cope with. ie:
Ignition Misfire, Rich mixture - possibly AFM failure when hot, or wrong temperature reading to the ECU . Over lean mixture like an air leak.
You really need diagnostics to look at the sensors, guesswork is not the best option as there are so many variables
That's the supply yes but the hot bit is in the air flow inside the casing, Take it off remove both end housings and you will see it. before you do that have a look at the mesh at the front if its dirty then yes the whole thing needs cleaning and check the air ducting to filter for damage if that's the case.
also had problems with low rev stalling....and finally all improved (idle, starting, general performance, emissions) when channging the timing-chain (as it had quite of lot of slag) and it further improved when i cleaned the injection system by using an intake-cleaner spray.
i did not follow all the usual advises changing parts....as its quite strange why in a tvr common-parts working well in a rover should fail so often.
this said: have you ever driven the car for longer journeys frequently? or just the ususal sunday-morning pub or car meeting visit locally? those cars need to be driven...short distance drives can built-up deposits here and there, which have similar effects on your engine as described.
i did not follow all the usual advises changing parts....as its quite strange why in a tvr common-parts working well in a rover should fail so often.
this said: have you ever driven the car for longer journeys frequently? or just the ususal sunday-morning pub or car meeting visit locally? those cars need to be driven...short distance drives can built-up deposits here and there, which have similar effects on your engine as described.
Thanks to all those that replied
After fitting the new parts (original thread) the only other thing I’ve done is cleaned the injectors and taken her for a proper drive
I’ve also stopped doing the short drives in local villages
As a result she is driving well now
I hoping that is all that was needed
After fitting the new parts (original thread) the only other thing I’ve done is cleaned the injectors and taken her for a proper drive
I’ve also stopped doing the short drives in local villages
As a result she is driving well now
I hoping that is all that was needed
Blitzracing is far more of an expert than I am.
One other thought comes to my mind - what spark plugs are you using and in what condition are they?
The standard ones are NGK B7ECS if I remember correctly. When I used them they fouled far too readily.
My car has been on NGK BPR6EIX for a long time now and it runs a lot better. These are iridium, so you change them a lot less often.
Any 6 rated plug will be better for the car than the specified 7s, which I think are too cold for the car. My TVR expert agrees and now fits 6 rated plugs, not 7s.
Just one word of warning - there are a lot of fake NGK plugs out there, so buy from a reputable source, not the cheapest on Ebay from China.
One other thought comes to my mind - what spark plugs are you using and in what condition are they?
The standard ones are NGK B7ECS if I remember correctly. When I used them they fouled far too readily.
My car has been on NGK BPR6EIX for a long time now and it runs a lot better. These are iridium, so you change them a lot less often.
Any 6 rated plug will be better for the car than the specified 7s, which I think are too cold for the car. My TVR expert agrees and now fits 6 rated plugs, not 7s.
Just one word of warning - there are a lot of fake NGK plugs out there, so buy from a reputable source, not the cheapest on Ebay from China.
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