Heater Pipe Clips on Rocker Cover

[Paul Goldstar]

I am quite far down the line on getting ready to lift the body on my car (appreciate all the posts from those who have gone before me...) it's going pretty well for a couple of evening's work but I could do with a couple of pointers please:

Fuel tank done and chassis bolts out.
Only one seat belt bolt wouldn't play ball so Mr Angry the angle grinder will sort him.
Exhaust off
Starter motor off
Manifolds undone, nearside out but the offside is fouling on the heater pipes and no amount of twisting and turning so far has allowed me the room to extricate the devil. No problem I thought, just whip the clips off and move the pipes. Hmmmm. I have tried a 10mm star socket but no-go. Is it a female torx socket I need or some other random tool I don't yet have? Or is it even easier and I am missing something?

The thick red wire that goes from the starter into a small box (assume 100A fuse?) and comes out thick brown has frayed - I noticed it was hot when I had it on the ramp for a once over just after I bought the car so it needs to be sorted. Is there a recommended replacement for the black box thingy or do I just take it apart and clean up/sort the wires?

Gear knob - should just twist off but I need to move the lower ally part on the gearstick below the gear knob away first is that correct? Either a PO has used loctite on it or they had a pet orang utan who they trained to tighten gear knobs. Loathe to use grips even with some innertube or similar to protect.

Sure there will be more questions before long but thanks for the great body off threads (Alun and Strudul in particular) they have been very helpful.

Paul

[Classic Chim]

Never removed heater rail pipe work sorry.
I’ll take a photo later today.
I seem to think I just move my manifold forward then up from the rear but can’t actually remember,,
The 100A fuse box you can buy from most TVR Parts suppliers I think.

Correct re gear knob. You should find a lock nut under gear-lever, undo that and knob should wind off stick.

[Paul Goldstar]

Thanks Alan, gear knob done now - easy when you know how :-)

[Steve_D]

I assume you are talking about the steel heater pipes alongside the rocker cover and the bolts are the rocker cover bolts in which case they are 8mm 12 point heads. This means that normal socket will not fit as they are usually 6 point. You need to find a long series 12 point socket. If you have difficulty finding one I believe the likes of Racetech Direct sell them.

Steve

Edited by Steve_D on Thursday 11th March 10:59

[phazed]

You will have imperial bolts holding the heating pipes on so it is probably an imperial Allen head bolt.

I didn’t have one many years ago so grabbed the next size up metric and lightly ground down the flats. Job done.

For future reference, the whole of the RV8 Is Imperial. Put those metric spanners away and treat yourself to a good set of AF spanner’s and sockets.

[s p a c e m a n]

Yeah you can buy the sockets on eBay, the important thing to remember is that you need one with a long shaft otherwise it fouls on the rocker cover.

[phazed]

Just seen Steve’s post above. He is correct. My rocker cover bolts were replaced previously with imperial Alan head bolts.

[Zener]

8mm - 5/16 imperial or 8mm bi-hex 1/4 drive socket is your friend on these screws/bolts

[Hedgehopper]

As above ^^^^^ . I got mine at Halfords, make sure it is the long shank series.

[Paul Goldstar]

Thanks all. Set of deep sockets incoming. I have a load of AF spanners and sockets as I’m used to tinkering with Stags but obviously the one you need is the one you don’t have.

I had a message from Steve about engine mounts which was a bit of a eureka moment. The n/s mount looks new but the o/s looks much older and might be dropping a touch.

Half an inch of jacking up on the sump/engine flange and a bit of twisting and out it came.

Radiator next then all the electrics tomorrow and hopefully lift on Saturday.

Thanks for all the helpful comments.